Good Suspension Resources
. I'm also interested in any driveline tech info from the tranny back. Preferably related to beefing up a C3's stock system. Thanks again
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What do you want to know about beefing up the rear end? ...for what purposes??
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Feb 25, 2008 at 06:45 PM.
With the stock stuff I have on now (4 speed Muncie M20 with a 3.36:1 posi) I feel confident I won't break things for now.. I'll just break traction. But to run 12's I know I'll need a different setup and tires.
So I want to do as much research as I can over the next few months and try to piece together a very streetable and bullet proof (for my power level) combination. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.

Also, I've looked for the Greenwood Articles and the Power Book C3 Corvette to no avail. Where do I find them? Thanks- sorry if its right under my nose and I'm not looking in the right place...
Last edited by A8skyhawk; Feb 25, 2008 at 10:07 PM.
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/vip.pdf
Trace





http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/ChevyPower.pdf
One thing that would help you go back and forth from street to strip settings easy would be VB&P's Smart Strut camber strut bracket (#52000-B, if I remember correctly from ordering mine). With it you can easily change your camber gain from minimal at the strip to ~optimal for everything else. I'm not, however, a fan of poly bushed camber struts and suggest NMB heim jointed rods with lock plates to eliminate the eccentrics.
Should you intend on putting slicks on your C3 occasionally, you might as well consider going ahead and getting a Tom's Diffs or Henry's Machine Works (they did mine) 12-bolt IRS setup, if you can afford it. Otherwise, find GTR1999 and see what he suggests doing to your 10-bolt to help it live longer. In any event, install a solid diff x-member locating kit, run Spicer (or eq.) solid U's throughout w/minimum 3" 1/2 shafts (the factory ones ought to handle your power level), install .5" lug studs and blueprint your stub axle bearing clearances, and above all don't let your rear suspension squat so far that it bottoms and binds the U's.
You may or may not be required to have safety loops around all 3 shafts if you're going to use slicks, but it's not a bad idea even if you aren't. A complete suspension system is not necessary to accomplish this. Some guys here swear by them, but if you think you might get serious about doing road courses I'd caution you to really do your homework before committing to a dedicated drag racing suspension setup, as they generally compromise geometry (particularly camber gain) for handling away from the strip.
Hope that gets you pointed at least in the right general direction.

edit - GTR1999 today on beefing up the 10-bolt, "You can mod the 10 bolt pretty good to hold up to the 500 hp. Steel cap, solid sleeve, ARP bolts, treated 10-17's,full polish and tune." He hangs out at DC a bit.
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Feb 26, 2008 at 12:07 AM.
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