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I have the smart strut bolted in as instructed, and i can lengthen the strut rods to about the length of my old ones.. but did any of you have to really pull the strut rod in very hard to get it into the lower mount? it seems like it wants to line up about 2 inches outside of the lower mount. are those cam bolts at the top able to angle the rod more towrds the front of car so it fits into the mount?
this is part of the street and slalom set from VBP, plus the full powder coated caliper and rotor set.. so far the hardest part is getting the old junk off. i thought i could do it myself to save some money... a new compressor, new impact wrench, new torch, new gear puller, new impact sockets, new box wrenches in bigger sizes, new tap to rethread my caliper mount a cross threaded, 4 new floor jacks, jack stands, vise grips, 2 cans of PB blaster, floor light so i can work well into the night on work nights, a dozen bandaids and 2 dozen beers... and i think i would have saved money by taking it to a local restoration shop.... but it's supposed to be "fun" right!!?? the wife wants her garage back.. pffft
i wonder what will be in store for me when i get to the front! 3 weeks later..
You've found the reason why I won't use poly bushings on strut rods. The way the suspension is designed on the C3 will create twisting forces as it goes through its travel. A rubber bushing can deflect to compensate, but a poly bushing will be thrashed in short order.
I just did this install on my '79 a couple weeks ago and had the same problem. Finally figured it out by raising the TA up it slips right into place as mentioned by spedaleden.
I bought the performmance plus pkg. from VBP and am now working on the front . Took off the lower a arms today. If you need any help send me a pm. You might also consider getting the dvd media from VBP as there is some great information on how to switch out a lot of this stuff. It's free or at least they didn't charge me for it.
I have the smart strut bolted in as instructed, and i can lengthen the strut rods to about the length of my old ones.. but did any of you have to really pull the strut rod in very hard to get it into the lower mount? it seems like it wants to line up about 2 inches outside of the lower mount. are those cam bolts at the top able to angle the rod more towrds the front of car so it fits into the mount?
this is part of the street and slalom set from VBP, plus the full powder coated caliper and rotor set.. so far the hardest part is getting the old junk off. i thought i could do it myself to save some money... a new compressor, new impact wrench, new torch, new gear puller, new impact sockets, new box wrenches in bigger sizes, new tap to rethread my caliper mount a cross threaded, 4 new floor jacks, jack stands, vise grips, 2 cans of PB blaster, floor light so i can work well into the night on work nights, a dozen bandaids and 2 dozen beers... and i think i would have saved money by taking it to a local restoration shop.... but it's supposed to be "fun" right!!?? the wife wants her garage back.. pffft
i wonder what will be in store for me when i get to the front! 3 weeks later..
You need to raise the trailing arms to line up the Smart Struts. If you use the Smart Strut mounting bracket from VB&P along with the adjustable rods I THINK you are supposed to use the straight bolts instead of the camber bolts. You also didn't budget nearly enough for beer.
I have the smart strut bolted in as instructed, and i can lengthen the strut rods to about the length of my old ones.. but did any of you have to really pull the strut rod in very hard to get it into the lower mount? it seems like it wants to line up about 2 inches outside of the lower mount. are those cam bolts at the top able to angle the rod more towrds the front of car so it fits into the mount?
this is part of the street and slalom set from VBP, plus the full powder coated caliper and rotor set.. so far the hardest part is getting the old junk off. i thought i could do it myself to save some money... a new compressor, new impact wrench, new torch, new gear puller, new impact sockets, new box wrenches in bigger sizes, new tap to rethread my caliper mount a cross threaded, 4 new floor jacks, jack stands, vise grips, 2 cans of PB blaster, floor light so i can work well into the night on work nights, a dozen bandaids and 2 dozen beers... and i think i would have saved money by taking it to a local restoration shop.... but it's supposed to be "fun" right!!?? the wife wants her garage back.. pffft
i wonder what will be in store for me when i get to the front! 3 weeks later..
I share your pain.......and the joy of buying new tools!!!! I just finished the suspension and brake work on front and back. Front suspension was a breeze compared to the rear.
Also if you don't tighten the strut mount on the bottom of the tranny it will help with your installation. Loosen the strut rod bracket until it is held by only a few threads of the bolts. This will allow you easily install the strut into the bracket. As posted above you no longer need the cam bolts that were installed previously to adjust camber. Dave
I share your pain.......and the joy of buying new tools!!!! I just finished the suspension and brake work on front and back. Front suspension was a breeze compared to the rear.
the front was easy, i started at day break today and just finished. getting the old springs out wasnt bad just use jack and lower slowly after removing the front hub assembly... drop jack down spring slides out no problem. it took me a few tries to get the new spring to sit in there just right without binding, but found the trick, and got the new calipers back on and brake lines.
i still need to get the rear shock mounts i ordered since i had to cut the old ones out on one side... before i found the 2 arm press for the other side.. then will try to finish up the rear end again.. getting the front done helps me spirits.
Not True. I have a 78 L-82 with the sport suspension and have had poly bushings in the strut rods since 1987 and there fine.
Originally Posted by zwede
You've found the reason why I won't use poly bushings on strut rods. The way the suspension is designed on the C3 will create twisting forces as it goes through its travel. A rubber bushing can deflect to compensate, but a poly bushing will be thrashed in short order.