changing motor mounts
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Henderson Nv-Rohnert Park/Sonoma C o. ca/born in NY Rockaway Beach.
changing motor mounts
WHat is the best way to change out the motor mounts?? I need to change the drivers side.. should I change them both ? or will it be ok to just change the one......What are the ins and out of the doing the job myself????? Can I do it myself???
Anything special to remove before i start ?? special tools???
Thanks for the help once again CF....
Anything special to remove before i start ?? special tools???
Thanks for the help once again CF....
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
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From: Columbia Missouri
It's really very easy. Jack up the car, giving you room to work under it, and put jack stands under the frame.
Then, support the engine with a jack, maybe using a block of wood to get under one of the pan rails instead of using the pan itself. Using a ratchet, maybe a few extensions, and a hand wrench, take off the nuts on the end of the engine mount barrel bolts.
Once they are off, take the weight off of the mounts by jacking the engine up just a bit. Slide the bolts out of the barrels, and jack the engine up high enough for you to get to the three bolts that hold the mount to the block.
I would suggest replacing both of them. Unbolt them, and bolt the new ones in place. Don't tighten then until the new mounts are both on and you have lowered the engine over the frame.
Once it's back in position, slide the long bolts through, and start the nuts. Snug them, and lower the engine the rest of the way so that the weight is again on the mounts. Then you can tighten the long bolt and nut, and finally the mount bolts.
That's all there is to it.
Then, support the engine with a jack, maybe using a block of wood to get under one of the pan rails instead of using the pan itself. Using a ratchet, maybe a few extensions, and a hand wrench, take off the nuts on the end of the engine mount barrel bolts.
Once they are off, take the weight off of the mounts by jacking the engine up just a bit. Slide the bolts out of the barrels, and jack the engine up high enough for you to get to the three bolts that hold the mount to the block.
I would suggest replacing both of them. Unbolt them, and bolt the new ones in place. Don't tighten then until the new mounts are both on and you have lowered the engine over the frame.
Once it's back in position, slide the long bolts through, and start the nuts. Snug them, and lower the engine the rest of the way so that the weight is again on the mounts. Then you can tighten the long bolt and nut, and finally the mount bolts.
That's all there is to it.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
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From: Crossville TN
Or you can do them one at a time for more convenience. Start by removing the one in worst condition. If both are in very bad condition, it would be safer to use the method D_boy suggests.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Henderson Nv-Rohnert Park/Sonoma C o. ca/born in NY Rockaway Beach.
Also a good time to do the wires......
I just have a stock L48 are Napa mounts good enough?
Thanks Matt for your help once again....
I noticed that when trying to power break the car that the fan would hit the shroud.... I didnt even think about the motor mount till now...
I just have a stock L48 are Napa mounts good enough?
Thanks Matt for your help once again....
I noticed that when trying to power break the car that the fan would hit the shroud.... I didnt even think about the motor mount till now...
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
yes napa has good parts.....remember to note the orientation of the bolts and nuts, one of them has the nut end facing the front and other has the nut end facing the rear......be prepared to fight with them and have a long pry bar handy to align them...sears makes one that has a long tapered end that is very helpful
i also used thread locker on all of my bolts...
i also used thread locker on all of my bolts...
Pro
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 593
Likes: 0
From: Warrenville IL
You may want to loosen the transmission mount to minimize the strain there.
DB has a good write up there.
Just get all the bolts started wellbefore you put the weight back on the mounts as they can be a pain to line up.
DB has a good write up there.
Just get all the bolts started wellbefore you put the weight back on the mounts as they can be a pain to line up.
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Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
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From: Columbia Missouri
When I installed my solid motor mounts it only took me about an hour of actual wrench time, but I had to gt up and down a few times for tools and rags. I saw a lot I wanted to wipe down while I was under the car.
Obviously it'll take longer if you have trouble with any of the bolts, or moving things to get to the bolts. My plug wires are not routed under the exhaust and I have headers, so our situations are very different.
You should have it done in no time George.
Last edited by Durango_Boy; Mar 4, 2008 at 09:25 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,572
Likes: 51
From: Wichita Kansas
Gathering to start and cleaning to finish; a couple of hours
This may also be an opportunity to change out the pan gasket and rear main seal. You know "while your at it"
Last edited by Aggitated Monkey; Mar 4, 2008 at 09:21 AM.
Thread Starter
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From: Henderson Nv-Rohnert Park/Sonoma C o. ca/born in NY Rockaway Beach.
Cool thanks for the help Mat....And everyone else....
I just had my pan gasket and rear seal done, so im good there..
This should be fun.... Ill keep everyone informed...
I just had my pan gasket and rear seal done, so im good there..
This should be fun.... Ill keep everyone informed...
When I installed my solid motor mounts it only took me about an hour of actual wrench time, but I had to gt up and down a few times for tools and rags. I saw a lot I wanted to wipe down while I was under the car.
Obviously it'll take longer if you have trouble with any of the bolts, or moving things to get to the bolts. My plug wires are not routed under the exhaust and I have headers, so our situations are very different.
You should have it done in no time George.
Obviously it'll take longer if you have trouble with any of the bolts, or moving things to get to the bolts. My plug wires are not routed under the exhaust and I have headers, so our situations are very different.
You should have it done in no time George.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Henderson Nv-Rohnert Park/Sonoma C o. ca/born in NY Rockaway Beach.
OK this stink.......
I have been working on this one mount for hours... I cant get the bolt thru.. I have tried everything I can think of.
Im doing them one at a time ... started on the broken one first(driver)
I feel im so close.....I have the 3 bolts very lose.. I have tried it with weight off and on kind off....you get the pic......
Any tricks I should know about.
I have been working on this one mount for hours... I cant get the bolt thru.. I have tried everything I can think of.
Im doing them one at a time ... started on the broken one first(driver)
I feel im so close.....I have the 3 bolts very lose.. I have tried it with weight off and on kind off....you get the pic......
Any tricks I should know about.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
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From: Columbia Missouri
I used a long screw driver to stick in, and use for leverage to get the mount lined up one way or the other. I had trouble with the passenger side just as you did, but like I said a screw driver and some prying and the bolt went in with minimal persuasion.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Henderson Nv-Rohnert Park/Sonoma C o. ca/born in NY Rockaway Beach.
Man I did that... Its just kicking my butt...I broke my flash light so i had to stop// I was getting tired anyway....
I ll hit it again after my doc appt in the am.....
Its so close...What about lifting the other side a little ??
I ll hit it again after my doc appt in the am.....
Its so close...What about lifting the other side a little ??
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,137
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From: Cartersville GA
Do both of them while your there. If you have to replace one, it's likely the other will fail soon anyway, and they don't cost that much.
Good luck,
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
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From: Columbia Missouri
Are the there block bolts on the other mount loose? They should be. Also loosen the transmission mount bolts.
Remember, it's a very heavy engine and you may need to coax it with a pry bar or a jack in just the right spot.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Crossville TN
Since the mount has a rubber inner cushion, the attachment bolt can be pretty sticky, if the parts of the mount aren't lined up just right. Try to adjust your floor jack up, then down, a bit to get the through-hole lined up. It will be easier to remove that way.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Henderson Nv-Rohnert Park/Sonoma C o. ca/born in NY Rockaway Beach.
Thanks MAtt, Your the man...... Im going to try this after I get back from the doc..... I was trying to just do the one... I didnt want to try them both at the same time just in case...But here goes...I will loosen everything up.....I have put a small screw driver in the hole and im real close.....today im gonnna lossen everything and get the pry bar and 2 x 4 out...I will losen the trans too...IF anything I guess ill have to call call my buddie to come give me a hand....
Thanks again matt....
Thanks again matt....
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 14,062
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From: Henderson Nv-Rohnert Park/Sonoma C o. ca/born in NY Rockaway Beach.
I got it out.....Just need to get the new one back in..I was so close could see the bold end...just couldnt get it ....
