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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 10:14 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Young69Owner
Okay, so I understand it is crucial that I don't go to large in the front. Do I keep what I have stock in a '69 SB car and put a 5/8" bar in the back. Also, my sway bar bushings being worn in the front - is that limiting the effecctiveness of the bar?

The factory BB rear bar is/was 9/16, the factory SB rear bar as used on the FE-7 is/was 7/16.....
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 02:07 PM
  #42  
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My '68 (at present) has stock F41 suspension with 8 x 18s with 255/45 and 9 x 18s with 285/40 on rear. Removed rear sway bar (it fouled tyres slightly). I can't see any adverse effect of doing this. The stock sway bar linkages look feeble anyhow. The car seems really neutral in corners with perhaps a little oversteer when backing-off gas in turns (to be expected).
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 06:50 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Bob3700
In starting out on your first excursion into suspension mods, duplicate the front and rear bar setup for an LT-1. You can use existing Chevrolet parts and keep your expenses limited. Make sure that all the bar mounting bushings are in good shape. Start with rubber bushings and see how you like the handling. If you want a little more stiffness from your bars, you can install poly bushings. They won't deflect as much and will in effect supply more roll stiffness.

Go with some adjustable shocks frt and rear, you can further tune the suspension for under/over steer.

This will get you started, won't break your pocket book, and begin your education/understanding of tuning the suspension.

HTHs.

Bob
Was the LT-1 1 1/8" in front and 7/16" in back? Thanks everybody.
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Old Mar 12, 2008 | 08:11 PM
  #44  
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The LT-1s I believe were the same as the BB cars.

I may be mistaken, but I don't believe that any of the LT-1 cars came with a 1 1/8 inch front bar. Perhaps that was part of the gymkana suspension option in later years.

Again, that large of a front bar is going to give you a ton of understeer even with the factory 9/16ths rear bar. Start somewhere around a 7/8 inch front bar with the 9/16 rear bar. You shouldn't get in any serious trouble that way.

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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 01:07 AM
  #45  
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I just hope your education about balance and handling doesn't come at the expense of backing your Vette into something heavily. If your car is balanced neutral to slight understeer now, adding rear bar alone is going to be a mistake. And, whatever else you end up doing, proceed with caution while you relearn your car's new characteristics. We don't want you or your C3 to get written off.
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 10:08 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Young69Owner
Okay, so I understand it is crucial that I don't go to large in the front. Do I keep what I have stock in a '69 SB car and put a 5/8" bar in the back. Also, my sway bar bushings being worn in the front - is that limiting the effecctiveness of the bar?
The only reason that I can think of for not going "too big" on the sta-bar is what I mentioned before about chassis stiffness. Get the bar too stiff and there should be a point of diminishing returns and increased chassis flex. Though it depends on the road surface, too. A bigger bar in a car not pushed to the limits will make an unpleasant tradeoff in ride feel. That said, I certainly have no complaints about the 1 1/4 bar in my '69
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Old Mar 13, 2008 | 11:44 PM
  #47  
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SO if I go with an 1 1/4 in the front and a 3/4 in the rear should this set up work ok??
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Old Mar 14, 2008 | 07:41 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by ptroxx
SO if I go with an 1 1/4 in the front and a 3/4 in the rear should this set up work ok??
Without knowing what you have in terms of springs and thus total roll rate, it's hard to tell for sure short of actually trying it. I think that's the combo I have. Can't recall my rear size though. I have a 7-leaf gymkhana rear spring and I'm not sure what my fronts were before I cut them. I think they were most likely the VBP 460 lb/in springs before I cut a full coil from them. I haven't put too many hard runs on that setup yet though.
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 10:14 AM
  #49  
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I guess i will add my two cents worth. I installed a OEM 1 1/8" front and a 5/8" rear (My signature says rear bar 7/16" , that might be wrong, it is pretty small) bars on my car a number of years ago. Combined with a 7 leaf rear spring and stock SB A/C front springs. The way I drive the car, country twisting roads. I enjoy the way the car feels set up this way. I have never auto-X or raced the car so I don't know what the handle is like at the limit. Maybe "oversteer" is lurking at the limit I don't know. The way I drive the car I can't see the benifit of adding any larger bars than I have now. From the sounds of it if, maybe removing the rear might be in order.
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 04:25 PM
  #50  
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For those who don't push the limits, IMHO it's even more desirable to make sure you're set up for understeer, as you guys just don't have the skill set developed to deal with the back end stepping out. I suggest that those of you who fit that description who have non-stock bar setups (or any of you with a rear bar in that group) go out and find a big safe space away from any traffic to find out what does happen at/near the limit before you end up with a big surprise someday. Suppose you're feeling a bit frisky one afternoon and some dolt screws up in front of you, forcing you to lift and you end up with TTO??

Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Mar 16, 2008 at 04:28 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 04:41 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
For those who don't push the limits, IMHO it's even more desirable to make sure you're set up for understeer, as you guys just don't have the skill set developed to deal with the back end stepping out. I suggest that those of you who fit that description who have non-stock bar setups (or any of you with a rear bar in that group) go out and find a big safe space away from any traffic to find out what does happen at/near the limit before you end up with a big surprise someday. Suppose you're feeling a bit frisky one afternoon and some dolt screws up in front of you, forcing you to lift and you end up with TTO??
I definately wouldn't recomend one on a street car
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Old Mar 16, 2008 | 07:24 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
For those who don't push the limits, IMHO it's even more desirable to make sure you're set up for understeer, as you guys just don't have the skill set developed to deal with the back end stepping out.
I'll testify to that. I been there and done that in my early days with this car. Swapped ends twice: did a 180 once going up an off ramp at ~60mph to avoid a crash in front of me on a highway, and did over a 360 spin once going around a decreasing radius turn too quick in the rain - all I could see is chain link fence passing by . Luckily I didn't hit anything except for a reflector that only put a scratch on my rear fender. After that, the big 7/8" rear bar came off and is now collecting dust in the corner of the garage.
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 11:12 AM
  #53  
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I just got a set of VBP 460 with 1 coil cut out already for free froma CF member.. So I will have the same front spring as you. with a stock leaf.. i have a set of KYB shocks.
Im looking for a good car to drive in the turns and twisties....
What size tires are you running.... ?? I have a set ot 235 60 15.. I want to go to a little biger rear tire like 255...

Thanks for all the advise..


Originally Posted by ddecart
Without knowing what you have in terms of springs and thus total roll rate, it's hard to tell for sure short of actually trying it. I think that's the combo I have. Can't recall my rear size though. I have a 7-leaf gymkhana rear spring and I'm not sure what my fronts were before I cut them. I think they were most likely the VBP 460 lb/in springs before I cut a full coil from them. I haven't put too many hard runs on that setup yet though.
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Old Mar 20, 2008 | 11:52 AM
  #54  
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Tires a 255/60/15 all the way around. Why is understeer better than oversteer?
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