Yeah, I know the smart *** answer to this question - you can never have enough HP. That's not what I am looking for in this thread...I am looking for what others have found to meet their needs. I'll be driving my vette into the ground after it is done - I want this thing to be a beast. My vette is not going to the track, but is going to be a street rod. How much HP do you guys recommend I go with (I know its hard to answer this question accurately, but give it your best shot)? I want this thing to be very powerful. This is probably a dumb thread, but I thought I'd post it anyways to see what everyone else thinks. I was thinking something on the lines of 400-500 HP.

 

Lots of engine power and an aggressive driving style without a beefy rear end is a grenade waiting to go. I don't know what you've done but it's a good idea to strengthen it up. Also, over here you can get a minimum $2000 fine and loose your vehicle for a week plus they will inform your insurance company if an officer decides you squacked the tires or he deems that you are street racing(that could also be refered to as going with the flow at a high rate of speed). Canadain laws...laws created to inspire voter response.

FYI There's been significantly more people killed in police chases than street racing.


In the end, hp is nice to have , use it wisely. I have Over 500, don't think I'll use it all.

 

I think everyone may have a different opinion on this subject when I had the stock l-48 in my 75, it was way to little. Now I have a 413 pushing somewhere close to 475 at the crank. I wonder now if that was a bit to much for the street. more HP and you loose some drive ability, and you defiantly loose some longevity. but here is the problem, I have built some bad cars before my vette, and it seems that after a while you get used to the HP and think you need more. I like the 400-500 range, and will prob stay there, and work more on the looks now. But that is just my .02

 

Their is a point in HP that you need wider tires that will not fit under the fenders. Too much HP can cause you to spin out without the proper tires and knowing how your car acts when you floor it. The HP in a C-5-6 is controled by tires and traction control to help people from wrecking them but it still happens. Make your choice for all the HP you feel you can control and don't go over the edge and hurt yourself or others.

 

just my opinion from the c3s i have driven, but i think that 350-400HP is a good amount. It is very streetable, and still allows you to roast some tires if you want.

 

I am going to be running massive tires in the rear with fender flares (12" wide tires). I have blueprinted my entire differential to Gary's specs (GTR1999) - full clutches, no posi springs, high temp thread locker, arp ring gear bolts, socket cap screws...the only thing I haven't done is install a steel bearing cap, and Gary said I wouldn't need it for the direction I am going in.. I have blueprinted absolutely everything on this vette. The entire car has been built to take an atomic bomb. I installed 3.73 gears in the rear and am planning on building my tranny to take a grenade as well.

 

I'm putting together a 383 for mine. Gm short block, AFR heads, [195's] and the lt4 hot cam. I was told by a few the cam was too mild. But I want a little drivability too. I may not be able to burn the quarter mile down but I will also be able to take trips in the car. We will see how it goes.

 

May get flamed for this response, but read this thread:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1931237

This is food for thought, sometimes too much is more than you need!

You will make up your own mind on this, I'm sure!

 

Our stock 72 has 200hp, our 79, has 400hp. I enjoy driving the 79 much more because of the extra HP, and it's still fairly easy on gas. So I'll have to go with 400hp, it's still within what these later year cars can handle, without all the extra suspension upgrades.

 

I've seen that thread before and it is sad - all that work gone down in seconds because of one mistake. It has got me thinking again, maybe the maximum I'll put in is 500 HP

 

The first question that comes to my mind after reading this and the original post is "Why?" You said no racing or anything of the sort is in line for the car...then why blueprint everything and make it bulletproof for 450-500hp? Obviously, there's something to be said for a well-built machine and we'd all love the best of the best parts on our cars but what would you really do with a bulletproof 500 hp Vette on the street, besides get in trouble?

I mean, my DD is an 08 Mustang GT with 300 hp and most people that have driven one will tell you, its plenty for the street...those who disagree obviously just have ***** that are entirely too large. I just don't see what I would possibly do with another 50-75% more power on tap...especially sitting on 35 year old suspension technology.

I guess I would agree with other posts, that stated that maybe 350-400 hp is plenty to work with. To me, a stock-rated car would suffice as long as the smell and the feeling of the car is there. There's just something different about a muscle car (though, of course, some of those lines were blurred in the later C3 years with smog laws).

Whatever direction you take, good luck, we'll be watching. Keep documenting things, its fun for others to read.

EDIT: I didn't see post #10 before responding but I guess THAT'S my point. Its a shame to see that happen and no matter who was at fault, there's only one person with a crunched up Vette and (I'm sure) TONS of hard work down the drain

 

I like the look of really wide tires and flares on the rear - I also will be driving the car very hard when it is done, which is why I blueprinted everything. You are correct though - you need to use the power wisely , which I will do. Anyways, I think I've decided on around 450 HP. If I outgrow it someday, then I can upgrade.

 

A C6R has about 540hp and weighs 1190Kg or 2618 lbs.

this is about 4.84 lbs per hp

so we round up to 5lbs per hp

My C3 weighs about 3300lbs

3300/5 = 660hp

Just some food for thought.

 

Maybe that's the key in this situation. Leave yourself options to upgrade or even downgrade without much trouble. For instance making power initially with compression instead of a lot of cam may be the way to go, because you can easily change cams later.

Keep it flexible.... after a while behind the wheel she'll tell you what she needs.

 

I have 450 and tires are my problem. You said you will have big tires so it sounds like you'll end up happy.

 

Don't forget its also important where your power is in the RPM band... I started out with a crate ZZ4 (350 355HP) and upgraded to AFR cylinder heads, new cam, etc... now pushing around 450 HP... I honestly can't tell too much of a difference until I get above 3000 RPM and then she just takes off. In fact (using DeskTop Dyno numbers for comparison) my peak torque is only a little more with the AFR ZZ4 and higher in the RPM band than the stock ZZ4. But, then again I spend most of my time below 3000 RPM on the street (unless I want to embarrass some rice rocket with a massive spoiler or something). However, I do have plans for some weekend visits to the strip, and then it will be nice to have the added power in the upper RPM band... just my 2 cents...

 

Very good information - I forgot about the power band

 

We started out just like you back in the day with a 450 hp 406. Now we are running a 355 that put out a little under 650 hp. Honestly, it's really fun to go out and cruise with the sound and power but poor driving manners kind of even things out. If you're an engine guy like I am and have more fun building them and freshening them up go for all you can get; if not, I would stay around 550 hp. At that power level you can have pretty good drivability, especially with a large cubic inch power plant, and enough power to put you back in the seat when you want. Just my opinion.

 

Whatever is more than the "other guy".

 

As Guru-4-hire mentioned previously, power to weight is the key for satisfaction....
But I'll take it one step further and say actual rear wheel power to weight is the criteria.
Use advertised power figures with some consideration to your on road setup.. Auto or manual, electric or mechanical fan, Serpentine system or multi belt accessories etc etc
Then weight factors... alloy heads, alloy radiator, composite springs alloy wheels etc etc Those 450 horsepower engines may not actually produce the number you expect when you put it on a chassis dyno.

I am just starting to give my new engine some hard runs and I am very happy with the results. It's a 475hp spec 383, but at the wheels it has 311 I was disappointed with the peak number initially, but it has only 1500 miles on it, and may release a few more as it loosens up. More importantly though, the behaviour of the car, the wide torque spread, and the manner in which it accellerates when pushed is simply outstanding. Maybe they are 311 wild stallions, rather than show ponies

I have an actual 220 rwHP/ton and I am content with that in a 40 year old classic. It's enough for me. The car starts well, runs well and goes hard. Tyre grip is dependant on my right foot. Any more power will need serious thought to bigger brakes, driveline and suspension/body mods to cope.


cheers
tom