Changing Headlight Switch
03-06-2008, 07:43 PM
#1
Racer
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St. Jude Donor '09
Changing Headlight Switch
How hard is it to swap out a headlight switch?
Can i just reach up under the dash & change it or is it more involved?
Can i just reach up under the dash & change it or is it more involved?
03-06-2008, 08:39 PM
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Melting Slicks
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03-06-2008, 08:46 PM
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St. Jude Donor '09
03-06-2008, 10:09 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
03-07-2008, 03:57 AM
#6
Melting Slicks
2. remove the dash pad screws and CAREFULLY pull up on the pad untilll you can access it, if your not carefull, you can crack the 30+ y/o plastic of the pad.
No you cannot access it from below, there is a nice piece of metal plate between it and the air.
To drop the steering column there are 3 points that must be un-done. 1. the rag joint cross bolts. 2 the firewall plate- 2 bolts on the inside firewall, outside bolt comes out, pivot it on the inside bolt/stud 180° and remove, the inside one is a stud welded to the engine side plate, 3. the two bolts on the underside of the steering column. edit:***The problem with just loosening the steering column hold up bolts is that it places undo stress on the column lower bearing, when you move it.***
Reassembly, the rag joint bolts loosly, the steering column hold up bolts loosly, then the rag joint crossbolts in tight, then the column bolts tight, then the plate bolts tight.
Last edited by RunningMan373; 03-07-2008 at 04:01 AM.
03-07-2008, 06:35 AM
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jdp6000 is correct for '78 and on, with the dash redisign, but for us 68-77 crew, you have two choices. 1. drop the steering column (i'm not joking) and then you can drop the drivers panel out and access the switch.
2. remove the dash pad screws and CAREFULLY pull up on the pad untilll you can access it, if your not carefull, you can crack the 30+ y/o plastic of the pad.
No you cannot access it from below, there is a nice piece of metal plate between it and the air.
To drop the steering column there are 3 points that must be un-done. 1. the rag joint cross bolts. 2 the firewall plate- 2 bolts on the inside firewall, outside bolt comes out, pivot it on the inside bolt/stud 180° and remove, the inside one is a stud welded to the engine side plate, 3. the two bolts on the underside of the steering column. edit:***The problem with just loosening the steering column hold up bolts is that it places undo stress on the column lower bearing, when you move it.***
Reassembly, the rag joint bolts loosly, the steering column hold up bolts loosly, then the rag joint crossbolts in tight, then the column bolts tight, then the plate bolts tight.
2. remove the dash pad screws and CAREFULLY pull up on the pad untilll you can access it, if your not carefull, you can crack the 30+ y/o plastic of the pad.
No you cannot access it from below, there is a nice piece of metal plate between it and the air.
To drop the steering column there are 3 points that must be un-done. 1. the rag joint cross bolts. 2 the firewall plate- 2 bolts on the inside firewall, outside bolt comes out, pivot it on the inside bolt/stud 180° and remove, the inside one is a stud welded to the engine side plate, 3. the two bolts on the underside of the steering column. edit:***The problem with just loosening the steering column hold up bolts is that it places undo stress on the column lower bearing, when you move it.***
Reassembly, the rag joint bolts loosly, the steering column hold up bolts loosly, then the rag joint crossbolts in tight, then the column bolts tight, then the plate bolts tight.
03-07-2008, 08:43 AM
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jdp6000 is correct for '78 and on, with the dash redisign, but for us 68-77 crew, you have two choices. 1. drop the steering column (i'm not joking) and then you can drop the drivers panel out and access the switch.
2. remove the dash pad screws and CAREFULLY pull up on the pad untilll you can access it, if your not carefull, you can crack the 30+ y/o plastic of the pad.
No you cannot access it from below, there is a nice piece of metal plate between it and the air.
To drop the steering column there are 3 points that must be un-done. 1. the rag joint cross bolts. 2 the firewall plate- 2 bolts on the inside firewall, outside bolt comes out, pivot it on the inside bolt/stud 180° and remove, the inside one is a stud welded to the engine side plate, 3. the two bolts on the underside of the steering column. edit:***The problem with just loosening the steering column hold up bolts is that it places undo stress on the column lower bearing, when you move it.***
Reassembly, the rag joint bolts loosly, the steering column hold up bolts loosly, then the rag joint crossbolts in tight, then the column bolts tight, then the plate bolts tight.
2. remove the dash pad screws and CAREFULLY pull up on the pad untilll you can access it, if your not carefull, you can crack the 30+ y/o plastic of the pad.
No you cannot access it from below, there is a nice piece of metal plate between it and the air.
To drop the steering column there are 3 points that must be un-done. 1. the rag joint cross bolts. 2 the firewall plate- 2 bolts on the inside firewall, outside bolt comes out, pivot it on the inside bolt/stud 180° and remove, the inside one is a stud welded to the engine side plate, 3. the two bolts on the underside of the steering column. edit:***The problem with just loosening the steering column hold up bolts is that it places undo stress on the column lower bearing, when you move it.***
Reassembly, the rag joint bolts loosly, the steering column hold up bolts loosly, then the rag joint crossbolts in tight, then the column bolts tight, then the plate bolts tight.
03-07-2008, 03:46 PM
#9
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St. Jude Donor '09
thanks lads. I think i'm going to pull the dash pad as I plan to swap out the crappy dash speakers anyway so no time like the present.
04-07-2008, 01:46 AM
#10
Le Mans Master
I need to replace mine and I have the drivers side dash pad loose. I can't see how to get the switch out of there. Is there a screw holding the bracket on the backside of the switch? Like I said, my pad is "loose". Does it need to come all the way out?
04-07-2008, 02:26 AM
#11
Melting Slicks
disconnect the battery first, then you have to be able to get to the front top of the switch, pull the light switch to full on, then find the little push button to push to release the shaft, then there is a threaded hollow bolt that screws into the dash, holding the switch in. Be aware that the two vac lines will need to be marked, uninstalled and reinstalled in the correct locations. eiser if you drop the column.
04-07-2008, 09:50 AM
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jdp6000 is correct for '78 and on, with the dash redisign, but for us 68-77 crew, you have two choices. 1. drop the steering column (i'm not joking) and then you can drop the drivers panel out and access the switch.
2. remove the dash pad screws and CAREFULLY pull up on the pad untilll you can access it, if your not carefull, you can crack the 30+ y/o plastic of the pad.
No you cannot access it from below, there is a nice piece of metal plate between it and the air.
To drop the steering column there are 3 points that must be un-done. 1. the rag joint cross bolts. 2 the firewall plate- 2 bolts on the inside firewall, outside bolt comes out, pivot it on the inside bolt/stud 180° and remove, the inside one is a stud welded to the engine side plate, 3. the two bolts on the underside of the steering column. edit:***The problem with just loosening the steering column hold up bolts is that it places undo stress on the column lower bearing, when you move it.***
Reassembly, the rag joint bolts loosly, the steering column hold up bolts loosly, then the rag joint crossbolts in tight, then the column bolts tight, then the plate bolts tight.
2. remove the dash pad screws and CAREFULLY pull up on the pad untilll you can access it, if your not carefull, you can crack the 30+ y/o plastic of the pad.
No you cannot access it from below, there is a nice piece of metal plate between it and the air.
To drop the steering column there are 3 points that must be un-done. 1. the rag joint cross bolts. 2 the firewall plate- 2 bolts on the inside firewall, outside bolt comes out, pivot it on the inside bolt/stud 180° and remove, the inside one is a stud welded to the engine side plate, 3. the two bolts on the underside of the steering column. edit:***The problem with just loosening the steering column hold up bolts is that it places undo stress on the column lower bearing, when you move it.***
Reassembly, the rag joint bolts loosly, the steering column hold up bolts loosly, then the rag joint crossbolts in tight, then the column bolts tight, then the plate bolts tight.
Last edited by squirrelguy; 04-07-2008 at 09:54 AM.
04-08-2008, 06:37 PM
#13
Le Mans Master
'68-'70 models can be changed just by pulling the front drivers side instrument panel forward to access the switch.
'71-'77 models you do have to drop the steering column.
'71-'77 models you do have to drop the steering column.
04-08-2008, 09:20 PM
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Really? From what I can see AT LEAST 70 thru 72 look exactly the same. Whats the diff. that makes it neccsary to drop the column? Must be something behind the Instrament panel that can't be seen that make it so. They sure look the same from the outside.
Last edited by squirrelguy; 04-08-2008 at 10:09 PM.
04-09-2008, 09:01 AM
#15
Melting Slicks
mine's a 72 and I just loosened everything up and then pulled it open on the left side of the driver's side of the lower dash pad...I can easily access the headlight switch. But when I pull the shaft out to the on position and then depress the little button... it doesn't release. I tried a few different times but no go on letting loose... any other ideas?
thanks,
Sully
04-09-2008, 09:30 AM
#16
Le Mans Master
Really? From what I can see AT LEAST 70 thru 72 look exactly the same.
when I pull the shaft out to the on position and then depress the little button... it doesn't release. I tried a few different times but no go on letting loose... any other ideas?
04-09-2008, 01:50 PM
#17
Melting Slicks
I got that info from my Haynes manual.
I fought with mine yesterday for nearly half an hour before it decided to cooperate. I don't really know what made it finally work though. I kept rotatting the shaft inside the switch in very small increments until it finally popped out. Make sure the **** is fully out though.
I fought with mine yesterday for nearly half an hour before it decided to cooperate. I don't really know what made it finally work though. I kept rotatting the shaft inside the switch in very small increments until it finally popped out. Make sure the **** is fully out though.
Sully
04-09-2008, 03:28 PM
#19
Melting Slicks
04-09-2008, 08:39 PM
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