Anybody know where I can find a set or get them made up? I would like to get some that are braided. I dont know what size AN fitting to use so I am looking for some advice. My current ones run to close to the headers and new exhaust and I plan on totally rerouting them along the frame rail instead of the current oil pan setup unless someone here knows a reason not to....

 

If the lines are 3/8", which I'm guessing them are, then 6AN is what you need.

Do you not like the hard lines?

 

I just had some made for my engine oil cooler. They are not cheap but this company has everything you will need and will install the ends for you for about $8 a end. I also have SS lines for my trans lines, I have a stand alone cooler with a fan and a T-stat controler for my trany; its mounted under the pass seat. I use SS PTFE hose for the higher temp rating.

DiscountHydraulicHose.com is were I got mine.

Here is a link to my lines.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1953698

Neal

 

The original lines are 5/16. You can use hard line adapters on the original lines (after cutting them) as the pressure is pretty low. This is the easiest solution for those who don't have a double flaring tool (or even better a 37 degree double flaring tool as the line is non seamless), if you have a flaring tool you can double flare to 45 degree and use tube nuts and sleeves. It's a low pressure application but if it were a higher pressure it would be better to use steel sleeves and nuts and a steel an 6 union. That way you can tighten the nut to the union to conform the 45 degree double flare. The aluminium will be too soft and you run the risk of rounding off the nut, damaging the sleeve or the union.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

those will readily accepot a -6 AN hose end.

You can also just install 1/4"NPT to -6 adapters into the tranny and run the lines from there. Be aware that the actual thread is not a tapered thread like NPT but a straight thread (I think it's BSPF, same as NPT without the taper) so just tighten the adapter with some teflon sealant on there but do not overtighten, you will crack the case. With the low pressure it only needs to be just tight to provide a leak free seal.

I have it like that also.

 

Thanks for all the replies! I am having ISSUES with the hardlines being right up against the headers, and if I move them a little they get up into the starter. I wanted to take some braided line and move them straight out of the tranny over to the frame rail under the AC box and run along the frame til I get past the motor mount. Once I get back under there its home free. Too many bends to do with a hard line without pulling the headers and all back out.

 

From reading some posts here recently it's quite obvious there's a bit of cunfusion about the AN/JIC system.

It's actually not confusing at all once you know how and WHY it's the way it is.

The dash size is an increment of 16 so -6 is a 6/16 = 3/8 size. This size refers to the OUTSIDE diameter of a hard line. WHY? Well, this is done so you can select your hose and hose ends to directly mate to a flare nut (with sleeve) to fit over your ahrd line. This system makes it really easy to figure out what you need when combining hard and flex lines.

Just forget about the inner diameter, it's not what the system uses.

So, if you have a 3/8 hard line, you need a -6 an tube nut and sleeve and a -6 an union (or bulkhead) to hook up a (female) hose end. It's just that simple.

Now, 5/16 is a -5 line and that's a very uncommon size. HOWEVER aeroquip DOES have a -5 tube nut and sleeve and a -5 to -6 union.

No need for guessing, the answer is always simple, measure the hard line and select either that an/jic size or in case of an awkward size (like 5/16) go up one.

 

You'll also need fittings to go into the radiator. From memory, I think they are -6AN x 1/2-20 inverted flare. You could also use this as an opportunity to run a tranny cooler

 

You're right, I use seperate coolers on my cars, never the radiator part.

 

I am looking for a good bolt on tranny cooler, I dont want the ones that attach thru the radiator with the nylon zips. Any of you have recommendations on those I am all

 

You can get the type that bolt to the frame under the car, and you lines run through it like a huge heat sink.

http://www.derale.com/frame-rail-cooler.html

 

I'll be running two of these...


...one for the transmission and one for the power steering/Jeep box/Hydroboost. Gonna bolt them both to that bar that runs left to right in the nose.

 

Here's how I have it installed, I too hate those things that go through the radiator core.

 

Earl's make s the fittings...I set up a Th700R4 with -6 a few years ago, and it made service MUCH easier. I don't recall the size for the adapter fittings, but any speed shop (or call Earls' direct) should be able to get them for you. I got mine from Barnett Performance in Atlanta (800-533-1320).

 

Here's what I use. Also popular with the diesel dually crowd.
This is the best dollar/btu and the quality is supurb.
It might be more btu than you are looking for though. It has an internal bypass for when the oil is colder and a little thicker.

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...ct_Code=4739-1