Steel spring VS composite
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 692
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From: Peabody Ma.
Steel spring VS composite
I took the rear end out this weekend, I noticed a missing spring bolt, and the isolators between the leafs are looking a little beat! The spring is a 9 leaf, looks ok? Do the composite make a difference? Can I fix the other spring?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,713
Likes: 31
From: Shreveport LA
LA Events Coordinator
Regarding composite springs, I notice there are different "weights" (315 lb, 355 lb, etc etc). What do those numbers mean? I have heard horror stories and seen some end results of the a$$ end sticking up after converting to composite springs 
AND if they try to adjust it down, "the adjusting bolt is too close to the concrete"????
Any info would be helpful....
AND if they try to adjust it down, "the adjusting bolt is too close to the concrete"????Any info would be helpful....
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,246
Likes: 1
The numbers are the spring rate. The problem is the arch, not the rating. Just get a proper spring with not too much arch. A composite spring has a much longer lifespan than a steel one and no inter-leaf friction. It can go through millions of full bump to full droop cycles. The steel one will eventually break a leaf in the several hundred thousand cycles region.
Bottom line, the composite spring is far superior to the steel one. The fact that some springs are sold with such an arch that they raise the car too much has nothing to do with the concept of a composite spring but of the spring design itself.
Bottom line, the composite spring is far superior to the steel one. The fact that some springs are sold with such an arch that they raise the car too much has nothing to do with the concept of a composite spring but of the spring design itself.
Last edited by V-Twin; Mar 18, 2008 at 10:17 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
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From: Columbia Missouri
The numbers are the spring rate. The problem is the arch, not the rating. Just get a proper spring with not too much arch. A composite sprig has a much longer lifespan than a steel one and no inter-leaf friction. It can go through millions of full bump to full droop cycles. The steel one will eventually break a leaf in the several hundred thousand cycles region.
Apples to apples, the composite is better than leaf. However, the 'feel' is different and I have heard just as many complaints about composite springs, as I have heard praise.In reality, the leaf spring would last you another 20 years so it comes down to preference, weight, feel...and what you're looking for out of your rear spring.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,713
Likes: 31
From: Shreveport LA
LA Events Coordinator
I don't mean to be cutting in on this thread, but since we're on the subject of rear springs, I thought this discussion would be appropriate.
So how do you determine what is the right arch? Am I to understand the number of the spring the stiffness? Which (arch, number, whatever) composite spring would you get to 1) get the stock ride height back? 2) have better handling.
My steel spring are OK and I have no issues with them....for now...but I see replacing them within a year and was considering the composite spring.
So how do you determine what is the right arch? Am I to understand the number of the spring the stiffness? Which (arch, number, whatever) composite spring would you get to 1) get the stock ride height back? 2) have better handling.
My steel spring are OK and I have no issues with them....for now...but I see replacing them within a year and was considering the composite spring.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,246
Likes: 1
There's no number for the arch, just stay away from the springs that have been reported to have too much and give a too high settled height (trw).
The hyperco/hypercoils (a quality brand!) spring that Van Steel sells has what looks to be a decent arch and it has the same cambered and tapered shape that the original 81-82 springs had. If I was buying a composite spring, that would be it.
The hyperco/hypercoils (a quality brand!) spring that Van Steel sells has what looks to be a decent arch and it has the same cambered and tapered shape that the original 81-82 springs had. If I was buying a composite spring, that would be it.
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 4,312
Likes: 70
From: Clearwater FL
There's no number for the arch, just stay away from the springs that have been reported to have too much and give a too high settled height (trw).
The hyperco/hypercoils (a quality brand!) spring that Van Steel sells has what looks to be a decent arch and it has the same cambered and tapered shape that the original 81-82 springs had. If I was buying a composite spring, that would be it.
The hyperco/hypercoils (a quality brand!) spring that Van Steel sells has what looks to be a decent arch and it has the same cambered and tapered shape that the original 81-82 springs had. If I was buying a composite spring, that would be it.
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Racer
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 279
Likes: 0
From: Forrest City Ar
question for Van
what lb spring would you recommend for a 425+ hp 78 that will see some track action. Olivier suggested at least 360 do you agree, and what will that do to ride under street dirving? Thanks Tom
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
but any good similar spring will work well, I suspect....
I changed back to the steel for a test one day....waste of time, no freeking way man....plastic is SO FAR SUPERIOR, i'ts no joke....
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,116
Likes: 156
From: Mid West
Cruise-In III Veteran
- KYB's were way too stiff, just felt really choppy to me
- Bilstein Extremes were too stiff also
- KYB2's had a very good ride, but were too soft for track use
- Edelbrock's are my favorite so far. Nice but firm ride on the street, and work well at the track too (HPDE's, nothing serious)