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Header Clearance Issue

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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 09:51 PM
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Default Header Clearance Issue

just got my stock motor back. balanced & blueprinted. dropped it in. no problems. After reading several posts here I bought the Headman Elites with ceramic coating. Driver side- no problems. pass side wouldn't go up until I unbolted the idler arm and dropped it out of the way. Pulled the idler arm back into position and the rubber cover is rubbing one of the header tubes. zero clearance. not good. anyone else dealt with this??? this is the only thing holding me up from getting out on the street. Headman by the way claims "they've never had this problem before"
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by doug9208
just got my stock motor back. balanced & blueprinted. dropped it in. no problems. After reading several posts here I bought the Headman Elites with ceramic coating. Driver side- no problems. pass side wouldn't go up until I unbolted the idler arm and dropped it out of the way. Pulled the idler arm back into position and the rubber cover is rubbing one of the header tubes. zero clearance. not good. anyone else dealt with this??? this is the only thing holding me up from getting out on the street. Headman by the way claims "they've never had this problem before"
Happened to me after installing a ZZ4. I pulled the header and dimpled it about an 1/8th inch. Not exactly the best method but they will be ceramic coated and they now fit with no problem. I was also told, this forum, that the engine may not be aligned as originally installed. Maybe you can move, grunt, the engine... nah. Somebody's probably got better advice. Good luck.
BTW, these were Headmans also.
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 10:02 PM
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I've never bought a set of headers that fit without dinging them, my last set of Super comps I had to weld a piece into one of the primary tubes to make it clear a spark plug, that's why I always buy then uncoated, ding them then get them coated
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 10:07 PM
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I went thru the same issue with my Hedman Elites last weekend. I loosened the motor and tranny mounts and put a jack under the oilpan and was able to motivate the whole thing to move about 1/4" away from the idler arm. It was really hard doing it with the jack, as soon as I get some room cleared out on that side of the car I am going to put the cherry picker over there and see if I can get a little more out of it. Also had issues with the tranny cooler lines, I am in the process of making some more now.
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 10:08 PM
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What condition are the motor mounts in? Sometimes a slightly sagging mount can make the difference. If they are original, no doubt they are sagging a little.
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 10:10 PM
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I had just put brand new poly in mine...... But you're correct, it will make a difference if there worn out.
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 10:14 PM
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not what I wanted to hear but you may have an idea. Big pain to go back and loosen everything up again. I still have the cherry picker close by.
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 10:15 PM
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while the engine was out I rebuilt the suspension with poly and also added new poly motor mounts.
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 10:15 PM
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tell me about it........................ I havent heard mine run in over 3 months now!
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 10:17 PM
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by the way if anyone knows the guy that designed the lower transmission line connection to the radiator, I'd like a few moments with him for all my pusted knuckles.
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 10:24 PM
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same here. I decided this would be a good time to go with a frame rail tranny cooler and some flexible braided lines. I got tired of screwing with it. They were going to be in the way in the future if I ever had to pull the starter.


also when your scooting it over, keep a close eye on your fan in the shroud!

Last edited by L82shark; Mar 17, 2008 at 10:26 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 10:27 PM
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by the way if anyone knows the guy that designed the lower transmission line connection to the radiator, I'd like a few moments with him for all my pusted knuckles.
its a tight fit for sure!

My header to idler is close but I think it will work. I'm just worried about heat and the rubber on the Idler arm.
I had more problems with fan shroud-fan clearence
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 10:43 PM
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I'd love that much clearance!! I noticed that the idler arm is mounted to the frame at about a 30 degree slant to the back. I've noticed that if I let it hang straight down I have clearance. Or if i kee the same mounting angle but lower it on the frame 1/2" it will clear the headers. I'm concerned that either one would screw up the steering geometry. thoughts??
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by doug9208
I'd love that much clearance!! I noticed that the idler arm is mounted to the frame at about a 30 degree slant to the back. I've noticed that if I let it hang straight down I have clearance. Or if i kee the same mounting angle but lower it on the frame 1/2" it will clear the headers. I'm concerned that either one would screw up the steering geometry. thoughts??
I would refrain from altering the fixed geometry of the steering set up and try moving the motor or dimpling the header or both. Moving the motor and dimpling have the least amount of risk but are the hard way of getting it done. I have not seen any post where someone moved the idler arm vice the alternate solutions discussed. Remember, with the age of these cars and variations in aftermarket parts these cars need micro tuning which often equates to grunt work to get it right.
SF The3

Last edited by The3; Mar 17, 2008 at 11:15 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 11:05 PM
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you're right. I now wish I'd kept the original idler arm to compare to the replacement from Ecklers. I compared the Eckler one to one at Auto Zone and they were exactly the same - down to the part number.
I wonder what happens to the ceramic coating if I try to "dimple' the header??
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by doug9208
...
I wonder what happens to the ceramic coating if I try to "dimple' the header??
I would assume that the coating would crack and you could either live with it or send it out to be recoated.
Sometimes that's the price we pay for this hobby.
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Old Mar 17, 2008 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by doug9208
you're right. I now wish I'd kept the original idler arm to compare to the replacement from Ecklers. I compared the Eckler one to one at Auto Zone and they were exactly the same - down to the part number.
I wonder what happens to the ceramic coating if I try to "dimple' the header??
You get a hammer and 1/2 ratchet extension and hit it a few hundred times to get the clearance. If the coating comes off spray it with silver high heat paint
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 12:08 AM
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I don't have any clearance problem with Dynomax headers. Does everyone with this clearance problem have Hedman Elite headers? If not, what other headers have this clearance problem? CFers thinking about installing headers should take note.
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 01:00 AM
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I have about the same clearance as hwcoop has, 1/2 inch round abouts. I bought the Hedman headers with the ceramic coating. Don't feel too bad L82shark, I haven't heard my motor run for 8 months now.Get close though. Tony
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Old Mar 18, 2008 | 07:57 AM
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Here's my 2 cents worth...I put coated headman headers on a 73 with a new 383 stroker engine last year. They hit in the same place. I called Headman Tech support & they said they are the correct headers. They're answer was to dimple it. I did it and it did not hurt the coating. Seems like a dumb thing to do to brand new headers but that was their solution, sop they have heard of this issue before.
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