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Trip odometer cable routing question

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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 05:51 PM
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Default Trip odometer cable routing question

I’m reinstalling the dash in my ’74 (t-top). I can’t seam to route the trip odometer cable correctly without binding it up. There is a hole in the steering column mount that it looks like it could run through but it looks to small for the cable. I know it was not run through this hole when I removed the dash, but Buba was here before me so no telling if it was routed correctly before I removed the dash.

Can the trip odometer cable be removed from the back of the speedometer?

If someone could tell me how the cable should be routed it would be much appreciated.

Robert
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 08:18 PM
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On my 69, the cable routes around the back (toward the firewall) of the main harness bundle. Its the smoothest kink free route from the odometer to the bottom of the dash pad.

I found this out reinstalling the left dash; it does bind if you try to run it on the wrong side of the harness. Just one more thing to make the dash assembly a little bit tougher to pull or install.
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Old Mar 19, 2008 | 08:34 PM
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On my '73, I've found the only way to route the cable without it getting kinked is to route it over the brace just behind the cluster.

I attach it to the cluster while I have the cluster out and as I'm inserting the cluster, feed it over the brace. Once the cluster is seated correctly I grab the end of the cable and pull it down to the bracket at the bottom of the cluster and attach it there. At that point I install the **** on the end of the cable.

The cable can be removed from the speedometer head with a small open end wrench... but it is a real pain if you have normal sized hands.

I had installed a new speedometer head a while back after messing with my tripometer numerous times to correct the problem. I could get it to work on the bench but not when installed. I later commissioned a frame off where the cluster was removed as part of the restoration. When the tech reinstalled the cluster, he forced the cable against the brace and not only kinked the cable, but damaged the new speedometer head as well. I had taken the original head with me to Carlisle one year and had it repaired for a spare. After getting the car back from the restoration I ended up having to reinstall the original speedometer head along with a new cable as described above. All has been well since.

A little care here can go a long way, so be careful and patient.

Good luck... GUSTO

Last edited by GUSTO14; Mar 19, 2008 at 08:36 PM.
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