I assume tightening the bolt does compress the box and clamp the shims otherwise what would keep them in there? The current mod is to drill 2 small holes and wire or cotter pin the shims through the hole opposite the slot. But I don't believe that is stock. They were just held in with friction from the clamping force.

But, I am not sure.

 

in 74 they came factory with slotted shims and the large cotter pin but don't know what year that started. earlier models just had a hole in the shim - that made adjustments much harder

 

Sounds like he owes you new bolts.

 

I always torqued my to the AIM rating of 45-55 Ft/lbs never had a problem with the original or the ones I bought from Bairs in the past.

 

If it is in the AIM then I would say that Tq is correct. Stinger; you could try the 45 FT/LBS and then set the wrench to the 55 FT/LBS and line up the pin hole. Maybe it will line up under the 50 you were using. Try going with origional quality on the nut and bolts from another vender as mentioned above. Or again go to stainless...

 

Made my own last night out of grade 8 bolts - Packed the shims in tightly with a small hammer, then tightened the bolt by hand using two regular wrenches (the tightest I could). I used a new castle nut from my cheap tie rods which I probably won't use and they will collect dust, and one oem nut on the other side. Worked great

I'll post pictures later on tonight

 

Sounds like some great engineering. Post photos when you can maybe somthing others or my self may use.

 

I stripped my trailing arm bolts from Vansteel - made of chinese crap I assume, because I was using a brand new torque wrench, recently calibrated and everything. Anyways, I decided I wasn't happy with the bolt quality, so I took a different approach. I went out to my industrial fastener place, and picked myself up some 7/16''-20 6'' grade 8 bolts (the vendors are supplying grade 5). The reason I bought them so long was because when you use a die to extend threads on a bolt, the few threads after the ones the factory rolled on don't have lots of bite to them. I wanted to basically have a shank with a hex head from which I could work off of. Now, I realize that cut threads are not as strong as rolled threads, but I am using grade 8, instead of grade 5, which will compensate from the "weaker" threads. I used a hand-drill to drill the cotter pin holes. You only want to cut enough threads in the bolt so that the nut can clamp the trailing arm pocket...you don't want any threads inside the pocket, it is a pivot point and it will bite into the frame if you extend the threads too much. It takes some time, and I messed up a few bolts, but it works perfect now. Instead of torqueing them to 50 ft'lbs and risking stripping my new (better than any vendor) bolts, I did the following. I packed the shims in the trailing arms so that they were tight (hand to use a hammer to tap them in). Then I used two hand wrenches to tighten the nut as much as I could and until the cotter pin holes lined up with the slots. I used one old original castle nut, and a castle nut from my new tie rods (I'm upgrading to moog). This bolt is a pivot point, so as long as it is tight, you should be okay. Anti-seized the hell out of everything - there is no way this bolt is ever going to get stuck again now

 

Good deal. Looks like you did a great job.

 

You might want to let your vendor know of the quality problem you've experienced. No sense in letting others have the same difficulties [because they weren't notified of the problem].

 

I will on monday

 

[QUOTE=stinger12;1564663504]I stripped my trailing arm bolts from Vansteel - made of chinese crap I assume, because I was using a brand new torque wrench, recently calibrated and everything. Anyways, I decided I wasn't happy with the bolt quality, so I took a different approach. I went out to my industrial fastener place, and picked myself up some 7/16''-20 6'' grade 8 bolts (the vendors are supplying grade 5). The reason I bought them so long was because when you use a die to extend threads on a bolt, the few threads after the ones the factory rolled on don't have lots of bite to them. I wanted to basically have a shank with a hex head from which I could work off of. Now, I realize that cut threads are not as strong as rolled threads, but I am using grade 8, instead of grade 5, which will compensate from the "weaker" threads. I used a hand-drill to drill the cotter pin holes. You only want to cut enough threads in the bolt so that the nut can clamp the trailing arm pocket...you don't want any threads inside the pocket, it is a pivot point and it will bite into the frame if you extend the threads too much. It takes some time, and I messed up a few bolts, but it works perfect now. Instead of torqueing them to 50 ft'lbs and risking stripping my new (better than any vendor) bolts, I did the following. I packed the shims in the trailing arms so that they were tight (hand to use a hammer to tap them in). Then I used two hand wrenches to tighten the nut as much as I could and until the cotter pin holes lined up with the slots. I used one old original castle nut, and a castle nut from my new tie rods (I'm upgrading to moog). This bolt is a pivot point, so as long as it is tight, you should be okay. Anti-seized the hell out of everything - there is no way this bolt is ever going to get stuck again now

Nope. They come right from Bairs and are American Made.

 

Nope. They come right from Bairs and are American Made.