Braking question and concern
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Naples Florida
Braking question and concern
I have a 69 and when i hit the brakes it pulls to the right...
this is what i have done so far... and i think my dad said he had the same problem when he was driving it years ago...
I have replaced all calibers brake pads and rotors... I replaced the master cylinder as well... and i know its bled correctly.
I was planning on taking it for an ailgnment so see it that will fix my problem.. Someone also said something about the brass distributor brake thingy..
Can i get some ideas of what i should try to correct this problem???
HAPPY EASTER!!!
this is what i have done so far... and i think my dad said he had the same problem when he was driving it years ago...
I have replaced all calibers brake pads and rotors... I replaced the master cylinder as well... and i know its bled correctly.
I was planning on taking it for an ailgnment so see it that will fix my problem.. Someone also said something about the brass distributor brake thingy..
Can i get some ideas of what i should try to correct this problem???
HAPPY EASTER!!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,640
Likes: 287
From: Ann Arbor Michigan
Yes, replace the rubber hoses if you didn't when you rebuilt calipers. Also check the front suspension bushing and make sure they are not worn out.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Naples Florida
im am pretty sure that they are ok.. The guy who did my brakes is DW of this board.. pretty knowledgable and when we did them they all looked in good shape but will check again... The car pulled before i changed everything and still continues after i changed everything...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,669
Likes: 3
From: Kingston Ontario
I have a 69 and when i hit the brakes it pulls to the right...
this is what i have done so far... and i think my dad said he had the same problem when he was driving it years ago...
I have replaced all calibers brake pads and rotors... I replaced the master cylinder as well... and i know its bled correctly.
I was planning on taking it for an ailgnment so see it that will fix my problem.. Someone also said something about the brass distributor brake thingy..
Can i get some ideas of what i should try to correct this problem???
HAPPY EASTER!!!
this is what i have done so far... and i think my dad said he had the same problem when he was driving it years ago...
I have replaced all calibers brake pads and rotors... I replaced the master cylinder as well... and i know its bled correctly.
I was planning on taking it for an ailgnment so see it that will fix my problem.. Someone also said something about the brass distributor brake thingy..
Can i get some ideas of what i should try to correct this problem???
HAPPY EASTER!!!
- If the alignment is out it could result in your issue.
The brake combination valve, allows isolation of the complete front or complete rear braking (not side to side). If the combination valve is actuated you should have a brake system dash light illuminated.
If the alignment and air pressures are good, you may have caliper slow to release (damaged flex line) or possibly still have air in the brake system. After replacing the rotors did you do a run-out check to determine rotor placement? I would re-bleed the system and confirm the rotor (all four) run-out.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Naples Florida
- Could be as simple as low air pressure on one tire.
- If the alignment is out it could result in your issue.
The brake combination valve, allows isolation of the complete front or complete rear braking (not side to side). If the combination valve is actuated you should have a brake system dash light illuminated.
If the alignment and air pressures are good, you may have caliper slow to release (damaged flex line) or possibly still have air in the brake system. After replacing the rotors did you do a run-out check to determine rotor placement? I would re-bleed the system and confirm the rotor (all four) run-out.
- If the alignment is out it could result in your issue.
The brake combination valve, allows isolation of the complete front or complete rear braking (not side to side). If the combination valve is actuated you should have a brake system dash light illuminated.
If the alignment and air pressures are good, you may have caliper slow to release (damaged flex line) or possibly still have air in the brake system. After replacing the rotors did you do a run-out check to determine rotor placement? I would re-bleed the system and confirm the rotor (all four) run-out.
i am gonna rule out the air pressure... I have checked that and all are the same!!!!
I have no illumination of the brake light.. I am just have to take it in to a place to have it looked at.. I called about it and they said its about a 2 1/2 hour job.. at 80.00 per hour..
o well.. i guess then i rule the alignment out then..
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Pearl City Hawaii
If it only pulls when you hit the brakes, and goes straight when you let go of the wheel driving regularly, I don't think it's the alignment. The hoses might look alright, but may bubble when pressure is applied.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7,106
Likes: 38
From: Newark DE
if the rubber brake hoses are old replace them. They deteriorate and swell from the inside and you can't see it. As you apply the brakes the pressure allows the fluid thru to brake but the swelling on the hose internally won't allow the brake fluid to than return after releasing the brake pedal cause it to pull to the side