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Someone posted, in the past, about using a late model GM truck starter to overcome the dreaded heat soak issue.
Anyone done this?
If so, what year & model truck would this be for?
Weather is getting nice and I need to get rid of this problem.
As an aside I am also planning on relocating the battery from the current behind the seat location to a new under the passenger fender location, due to a need for more interior room for stereo speakers/amps, utilizing a battery box.
Someone posted, in the past, about using a late model GM truck starter to overcome the dreaded heat soak issue.
Anyone done this?
If so, what year & model truck would this be for?
Weather is getting nice and I need to get rid of this problem.
As an aside I am also planning on relocating the battery from the current behind the seat location to a new under the passenger fender location, due to a need for more interior room for stereo speakers/amps, utilizing a battery box.
Any thoughts there?
TIA
The starter is simple. It's just a GM mini starter used on factory cars and trucks. Works great.
Be careful about moving the battery. That plate at the bottom of the fender is not going to support a lot of weight, and it all needs to be beefed up to handle the weight. Shield it from the heat as much as you can too.
Quote:
And it doesn't solve the "heat-soak" problem in the least!
This statement really amazes me! I am not a fan of Fords by any means but they got this one right. A remote solenoid (Ford) will cure most heat soak situations. Heat soak is caused by the solenoid and wires getting hot and add resistance. By putting a remote solenoid in you are able to jumper the B post to the S post on the starter and provide more current to the solenoid.
The cheap and cost effective way to cure heat soak it a remote solenoid. If you truly need a new starter a gear reduction is the way to go but not to cure heat soak. They were designed to draw less current for higher compression engines. Hear are a few link were you can do some more research before spending spending unnecessary money on a new starter. http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/solenoid.htm http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...?post/1296629/ http://sa3go.proboards105.com/index....lay&thread=300
And it doesn't solve the "heat-soak" problem in the least!
I was under the impression a starter was to spin the engine, get combustion and spark, there by make the engine run. Not soak up "heat'. How do you tell when a starter has soaked up enough heat? Is there a full line on the case? Whats it`s capacity? Do you measure by lbs. Quarts maybe? or weight. Ya know, most of them are on the heavy side. Or coild there be or isi there a thermometer stick on the side?...
If you have OE points ignition (like most 68-74 C3) you must MODIFY the late model Pickup/suburban permanent magnet starter (get one for a 96-99 w/ iron-head 350 or 454) ... modify as in have a different solenoid cap installed that has the extra terminal to boost the OE points coil for startup (correct "points" sol'd cap has 2 big posts & 2 little posts)... any competent local starter & alternator rebuilding shop can do it. Sorry no part #'s. My local (& quite rural) S&A shop sells brand new starters like above for $80 ... check w/ your local 1'st ... just ask 'em.
-edit-
No arguments but ... GM found the easy way to prevent heat soaked starters was to follow others' lead ... and use a permanent magnet starter ... eliminating heat soak-prone field coils. For years now, all GM passenger vehicles have PM starters with no FC.