I ran out of copper paste before mounting the alloy wheels last year. Now they lug nuts are very stuck. I've tried using the big air wrench and cheater bars to losen them. I just managed to split a heavy duty socket. What are my options?

I'd rather not cut or drill them off it that is not the only option.

 

How big is your impact wrench? Any 1/2" drive should break lugs loose. Are you sure you have enough air going to it? Does it have an adjustment ****?

First you need a socket that fits. I am thinking they are six point. Then you need enough wrench or enough leverage. Preferably the impact because it wont break the studd as fast as you will with a 3 ft cheater pipe.

Remember when tightening them again, don't over do it because the next time they have to come off you may be on the side of the road.

 

Use an impact socket, 1/2 drive w/cheater bar and jump on it if you have to. It will come off or you'll break the stud.

You sure your turning it the right way?

 

Do not jump on it.

A friend of mine did that to a truck once and quit after breaking the first two studds. We are trying to salvage your parts aren't we? At least the impact socket suggestion isn't a bad idea.

Position the bar so that you can pull up with your legs and butt. That way when it breaks you go up instead of falling over(pushing down)

 

Soak everything with Hoppe's #9 Gun Solvent, let it set overnight and get your impact out. Using a socket and cheater bar will work, just apply a steady force- as someone pointed out using your legs. If you apply a quick sharp force, you'll very likely be snapping lugs. An impact is best because of the hammer blows turning in the direction you want.

 

I did have enough air pressure in the impact. I was really surprised when the socket broke. Yes, it was a six-point. Maybe that's what I get for cheeating on the quality checks.

I will try to soak some oil into it. Any point in heating the nuts / studs with a torch? I'm thinking this can elongate them to relieve some of the pressure.

Is there any chemical that dissolves oxides or whatever that is binding?
I figure the oil only lubes the thing. And if I do oil them, will the torch make it better or worse when it burns away the oil?

 

You need something that will get in and not only lube the lugs, but will help clean the dis-similar metals corrosion between the lug nuts and the wheels. Oil will not. I personally like Hoppe's #9 Solvent, but many have had good luck with PB-Blaster.

Are you talking about a propane torch or oxy-acetylene? I'd be really careful around aluminum wheels with either one. Propane is not really hot enough (IMHO) and oxy-acteylene stands a good chance of melting your wheels.

 

It's an acety torch. I'll go very light with it.

Can I count on that the steel studs are glowing before the alloy wheels begin to melt if I aim for the nuts?

 

Your impact gun may not have enough torque. Drive to a tire shop or local garage and have them remove and re-install the lug nuts. Those guys spend serious dollars on their high torque impact guns. Then take it home, remove, anti-seize and torque the lug nuts.

You can try a breaker bar but the impact will do the job, with less potential damage. I would not attempt to torch my nuts!

 

I could sense that joke coming must be my psychic superpowers.

Anyways, problem with the seized nuts is that I have visited a tire shop with professional equipment. Granted they just spent 10 minutes trying to losen them but they failed. I'm reaching for the desperate methods now. I'll find some good illegal chemicals from the last century to remove the oxide before I go at it again with the impact wrench.

 

I would find another shop before hitting the aluminum wheels with an oxygen-acetylene torch. Very easy to damage those wheels with that heat!

 

Any updates?

 

Something that i have learned over the years is that if you want to get maximum power out of your impact wrench, shoot some oil in it right before you use it on a stubborn bolt or nut. It helps the seal of the gun and gives it considerably more power.

 

if you have a huge lug or bolt or possibly even a spud wrench that you can put directly on the lugs cap end, it should be 8" or so.Take a 4lb hammer or better and tap on one lug straight flush and solidly hitting it as hard as you possibly can without losing control and hit it about 8 to 10 times solidly.One man holding the stud or bolt and the other hammering.Then two men on opposite side of a 4 way lug afterward applying equal pressure, one stepping on one side while other holds lug wrench square and tries to apply equal force as the man using his foot it should break no problem.You have to swap from warming it up with hammer to applying breakout pressure as quickly as possible to ensure the lug stays warm.The 4 way lug will ensure you keep it square as opposed lop sided pressure making it twist with just one person.
Afterward inspect your threads and see if they have peeled any and if so replace.That sounds unimaginably tight. If it doesn't back out the stud will break either way you win.
If you have access to a 3/4" or 1" impact even better.Impact wrenches are ok but i can put more force on a bolt with my wrists and shoulders than any 1/2" impact could ever put,given for instance a 4-way lug to work with.Impacts can tighten a nut much tighter it seems than it can back out becasue it runs into it so hard during installation.If you have to work alone,after warming the lug, put one foot on the 4-way lower leverage arm while pulling on the top one with your arms all in one motion. It will be a clean break without binding the lug and it will break. if it doesn't do it again putting out harder.If after 3 times it doesn't work reheat the lug with hammer and lug or whatever tool you designated for this task, the heavier the tool the better the results. Keep doing this without breaks until you achieve the lug your working on.Take a break between lugs if necessary.Be sure your tool you use to warm the lug isn't scratching the rim anywhere and look after each hit to make sure its in proper place on lug face.
When reinstalling lugs start them by hand,then run them up loosely with impact,tighten them with your arms, again, preferably a 4 way, if it starts clicking and jumping while your tightening you should stop there, tight enough.That clickin,jumping and popping noise is the sound of overtightening

 

I would not place a torch any where near thos aluminum wheels. If you heat the STEEL nuts to glow then what do you think is going to happen to the softer ALUMINUM? You may also cause damage to bearings or break down the bearing grease from excessive heat.

Your impact is just not making the power. The socket didn't break due to torque; it broke from the hammer action of the impact.

Take it to a tire shop and have them break the lugs loose. Don't tell them how difficult it has been just that they are too tight.

 

Come on! Jontis, you out there?

I haven't been able to sleep since this started. Tell us you brought the car to another shop, and all is well!

 

remember, when using your torch for other than cutting or welding use a rosebud tip.

 

He has aluminum wheels! Stop telling him to use a torch!

 

I've jumped on 18" breaker bars to pop overtorqued lug nuts loose all the time, and I've never broken anything except a cheap socket...and I'm not exactly Mr. Lightweight.

 

At 220lbs who needs to jump I just step on the bar