Trailing arm shims?
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,930
Likes: 15
From: Calgary Alberta
That's kind of what I thought. Like I mentioned earlier, my AIM shows the shims with holes on each end, with no fork or slot and the TA bolt going through the hole. I will most likely drill a small hole on each side of the pocket to slide the cotter pin through the hole in the shim as added insurance in case they should -- god forbid -- slide out. It makes total sense to make a design change like that to aid in any future alignment issues, but I find it odd that the T/A bolt will hold the shims in place like that and be secure. Thanks. 
Your frame was desinged for the regular shims, not the slotted ones. The factory didn't drill a hole for the really long cotter pin because they weren't needed with the unslotted shims. You need to cotter pin when you install the slotted ones, or else the shims will fall out when you are driving. I'll get you a picture later on tonight of where you need to drill the hole in the frame pocket for the cotter pin.
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,425
Likes: 0
From: Seattle Wash.
No matter what you do, when you remove the TAs, you'll need a new alignment after you put them back in. You can add shims back where they were to make it closer to correct - that way the trip to the alignment shop won't be as scary. If you don't do the alignment, tire wear will be excessive and handling may be impaired.
Thanks. Yes I am aware that I will need to align it after I get the whole thing back together. I ordered a rebuilt set from Bair's and will install them upon their arrival, and once they are installed, off to the alignment shop to fine tune the suspension.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,469
Likes: 275
From: Naples FL
Get some extra shims and take them to the alignment shop with you. If your car needs extra shims (for some reason) the alignment shop probably won't have any.
Also - paint white stripes on the shims and the nuts. Then you can tell if they actually did anything when you pick up the car. The average alignment shop hates setting the rear toe on C3 Corvettes. They don't mind charging you for it though.
Richard Newton
How to Restore and Modify Your Corvette, 1968-1982
Ultimate Garage Handbook
Also - paint white stripes on the shims and the nuts. Then you can tell if they actually did anything when you pick up the car. The average alignment shop hates setting the rear toe on C3 Corvettes. They don't mind charging you for it though.
Richard Newton
How to Restore and Modify Your Corvette, 1968-1982
Ultimate Garage Handbook
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
when you drill the holes for the cotter pin, you'll need a 6" length drill bit to drill the inside rail of the frame. there isn't room to drill from the inside outward. use a regular length for the outside rail.
jeff
jeff
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,425
Likes: 0
From: Seattle Wash.
Stinger12,
No worries. Post the pics you get a chance.
Richard,
I was planning on bringing the extra shims. Never thought about marking the locations with paint. Thanks for the tip! BTW, I have your book How to Restore and Modify your Corvette. Good read. I recommend it.
jnb5101,
Good tip. I will need to get a longer drill bit for the inside part of the TA pocket.
Thanks everybody. I really appreciate it.
No worries. Post the pics you get a chance.
Richard,
I was planning on bringing the extra shims. Never thought about marking the locations with paint. Thanks for the tip! BTW, I have your book How to Restore and Modify your Corvette. Good read. I recommend it.
jnb5101,
Good tip. I will need to get a longer drill bit for the inside part of the TA pocket.
Thanks everybody. I really appreciate it.
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Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,425
Likes: 0
From: Seattle Wash.
Steve,
Yeah my olds ones were rusted pretty good, but not fused together. I got new stainless shims that will be installed with rebuilt T/A's, new half shaft u-joints, new strut arm bushings, new calipers.... and on and on and.... In other words, everything, and I mean everything, on the rear suspension from the driveline back is either new or rebuilt, except the diff, which only needed a new HD rear cover (original one cracked) new fluids, clean and paint.
Yeah my olds ones were rusted pretty good, but not fused together. I got new stainless shims that will be installed with rebuilt T/A's, new half shaft u-joints, new strut arm bushings, new calipers.... and on and on and.... In other words, everything, and I mean everything, on the rear suspension from the driveline back is either new or rebuilt, except the diff, which only needed a new HD rear cover (original one cracked) new fluids, clean and paint.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 618
Likes: 0
I believe GM went to a slotted shim starting in '71. I know the '70 calls for the non-slotted type (NCRS), but they are a pita, so go slotted.
Also, you might want to consider towing your car there. It wouldn't take a lot to wear your tires driving there with a bad alignment.
I have AAA, which gets me free towing up to 50 miles. I've used it twice, both times asking for a flat bed wrecker.
Also, you might want to consider towing your car there. It wouldn't take a lot to wear your tires driving there with a bad alignment.
I have AAA, which gets me free towing up to 50 miles. I've used it twice, both times asking for a flat bed wrecker.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
I can't see using the hole-type shims for anything other than a perfect factory-condition trailer-queen.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,930
Likes: 15
From: Calgary Alberta
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,425
Likes: 0
From: Seattle Wash.
How 'bout I try drilling the holes and let you know what to expect? Not sure when I'll do it, most likely within the next couple of weeks. BTW, the holes cannot be very large in diameter as the cotter pin itself isn't all that big.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
as i posted about the 6" drill bits, you can make the cotter pin holes with the body on. use a 90* drill and a standard lenght bit working from the outer side and make the hole in the outer rail. place a 6" bit in the hole and then insert the bit into the drill. make the hole in the inner rail, then loosen and remove the drill and then the bit by itself. there's just enough room.
jeff
jeff
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,775
Likes: 4
well, i dont need to worry about this after all. i found the holes already drilled. they were just filled with dirt, mud, and rust. i also apparently have the slotted shims in the car already. why theres no cotter pin through them though remains a mystery to me.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,930
Likes: 15
From: Calgary Alberta