$300 to me sounds excessive. I can see where he may wanted to justify the price in a "feel good" state by making it sound like it was worth it. Too me, it just seem way out of line. Sounds like there were more problems than an alignment. I know I would have likely seen a higher price too if I had not spent the time to rebuild the front end. That had to have helped considerably. I think putting that money into rebuilding the rear first would make more sense, than on the alignment.

Also, I got the same exact numbers as you, $89 assuming nothing out of the ordinary, plus shims.

The $66 figure is likely the result of the "uncomplete" job. However, like you said, and like the diagram clearly indicates, they did indeed fix most of the problems. The front end is perfect, and a steering wheel that was once at around a 35 degree angle to the right is now perfectly straight.

As for the Toe in the rear, I have a feeling I am going to lose more rubber due to the high school kid in me that 20 year ago used to get disorderly conducts for roasting tires.

I'm hopeful that with more work on the rear end, DIY, I will be able to get the correct toe next time around. Either way, for a 30 year old car, it tracks and drives better than my wife's new G6. So much so, that she asked that we bring hers in to check the alignment.

Either way, for $66 I'm still quite happy with the results. My major issues are the brake squeak and possible universal joints issues I have ATM. I'll get the toe fixed eventually...

Again, those new parts on that front end made things much easier to work with. I'm glad they were honest and forthright about the issues with the rear. Not many stealers (dealers) are.

 

Shoot, even most 'mechanics' (folks assigned to work the alignment rack) don't understand what the equipment is really doing. They just follow the procedures "Fred" taught them when they hired in. The folks that actually attend authorized training classes have the opportunity to learn.....some do and some don't.

 

First off, If you'll go back to my first responce I said "JUST UNDER" $300.00. However after going back and researching the reciept for the job, it was actually $209.75. I still say $66.00 for this job would have had me RUNNING, not walkiong away from the shop that quoted me that price. Sorry, but again I'm from the school of "you get what you pay for" Period!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I don't care how new and or redone your front and rear parts are, this job done CORRECTLY is more than JUST 1 hours work/Labor.

 

Glad to hear it was not the full $300, and I meant no disrespect. I've been in business 11 years now (nothing to do with cars) and agree completely, you do get what you pay for; and we both did.

I just got done looking at my rear end about 5 minutes ago, and I would not have touched it myself. I think I am off to order the rear rebuild kit. It's not in the best of shape, needs some updating and even if they did align it (and yes it would have been quite labor intensive), I doubt it would stay aligned.

You got a complete job for $200 and some change. I got about $95% or better for $66. In the end, if you are happy with the results, that is all that matter. I know I am quite pleased myself.

I really have to redo that rear end. I think that will eliminate other issues I have, like some squeaking and squealing. Still cannot seem to find that source of that problem. I checked the braked which looked fine, and the universals, which look tight and fine as well. Maybe sitting over the winter has had something to do with that.

YMMV

 

Well it appears to me that this 4-wheel alignment was nothing more than a toe change up front and a camber change out back.. that seems worth $68 if you consider shop hourly rates.

on the other hand I dont think I would consider a toe tweak and a camber change in the rear a "TRUE" 4-wheel alignment.

Both front toe and rear camber are silly easy to change, you could probably do it without getting your hands dirty

 

Somewhat related question. When an alignment shop removes the trailing arm bolt to replace shims what holds the arm in place?. Wouldn't the rear leaf try to launch the arm?.What procedure do they use to do this?.

 

Authorized training classes are great. I probably learned more about suspension components and design during my two courses (general and heavy-duty truck) than I could have ever imagined learning. The courses I took talked about the old alignment procedures to illustrate what the new equipment does - the difference in speed and accuracy is incredible, if the tech knows how to use the equipment.

What year are we talking about? The slotted shims were phased in during '69 production, IIRC.

 

New replacement shims are slotted. Loosen the bolt, slide the old shims out, slide new shims in.

The vettes suspension design doesnt launch the trailing arms...

 

For exact restorations, the hole-type shims are still available (for the years that used them). If upgrading to slotted shims, holes need to be drilled in the T/A pocket for the big cotter pin.

 

To go back and answer someones question from the beginning of this post... SAI is the steering axis inclination or the imaginary line drawn through the upper and lower ball joints. This is usually used as a diagnosis angle and cannot be adjusted(unless an engine cradle has been installed improperly). This angle is built into the suspension geometry from the factory and can tell the tech if you have bent parts. It makes the vehicle raise as the wheels are turned. Thats pretty much all i can tell you about that. I am taking a steering and suspensions class right now and it is absolutely amazing how little most alignment technicians know (I being one of them before this class). The shop manager will tell one of the other techs to show you how to do an alignment but they never explain to you what everything means and why you are changing it and most will say that green is good but there is a certain standards that should be followed when doing alignments.
1. more positive front camber on the left side (no more than .5 degree variation from the other side)
2. more negative front caster on the left side( no more than .5 degree variation from other side)
3. all angles must be in spec
I could go on and on but I am sure I am just boring you guys. I find this information very interesting and I actually like going to class now.
Matt
BTW some shops will accept head tapping as an adjustment so I would stand outside the door as the alignment is being performed. Don't get in the mechanics way and try not to ask any questions until everything is completed. They don't like being bothered and you are just slowing them down but you have a right to watch them perform the work.
I hope this post educated some of the vette owners on this site cause I hate it when shops take advantage of people.

 

My original shims on the front were pennies in some instances.

 

I checked with a local frame shop to ask what it would take to properly due a 4 wheel to my 73. Just based on there shop rate book it was 3 hours for the rear and 1 hour for the front.
This shop came recommended by the Vette parts supplier here so take for what its worth. Belle Tire offers a 4 wheel but they do not touch te shims so if they are off then your wasting your money.

About ten years ago I had a shop replace my trailing arms and bushings both front and back. They took it to Belle Tire for the alignment so my tires ended up with funny wear. Then they never put the cotter pin in to hold the shims, lucky none of them fell out.

I was not going to put new tires on without getting it done right. The shop ended up changing the shims for both trialing arms and front A-arms. They had it on the rack for about three hours except to take it for a few test runs down the road. I may have paid more then I wanted but now I know it is right. I even gain a little MPG when I took it on a road trim last fall.

 

Seems like I recall an article on 4 wheel alignment; and it is actually different than thrust angle alignment. The thrust angle alignment keeps everything straight, and avoids dog - legging? Just trying to add to the confusion. Maybe some of the 4 wheel alignments don't include the thrust angle alignment, so the lesser price. Cheers.

Tommy

 

Front shims are standard parts. The rear shims are oddballs only used on Corvettes. 63-69 used shims with just a hole for the T/A bolt, a really stupid design that's a PITA to fix when the bolt and bushing sleeve invariably rust together. 69-82 used shims with a slot for the bolt and a hole for a long, heavy cotter pin to keep the shims from falling out.

Thrust-angle alignments only apply to vehicles with solid rear axles.

Any shop that offers to do a thrust-angle alignment on a post-1962 Corvette needs to be left immediately before they touch the car, as they are totally incompetent.