Yes! Another Brake Bleeding Question
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,084
Likes: 8
From: Illinois
Yes! Another Brake Bleeding Question
I just replaced the all brake lines, new M/C, had brake booster rebuilt, and trailing arm and everything associated with it rebuilt. Started bleeding the system using silicone and motive power bleeder. Started moving the calipers by hand as some mentioned to get more air out. Here is the question: when bleeding the system should the brake pads be against the rotors so wheels won't rotate and should the brake pedal be down (I did not push it down) and hard? Don't ask me to start the car--the radiator is out so that is not possible. I answer is yes how do you get the pads away from the rotors--does that happen when the car is started? I can squeeze the rear ones by hand away from the rotors by not the front ones--maybe alittle but very hard compared to rear calipers. Thanks
C6 the C5 of tomorrow
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,665
Likes: 2
From: Twin Cities Minnesota
It doesn't matter that the pads are against the rotors, probably better that way anyway.
The pedal is usually up, but I usually pump the brakes now and then to shake loose any bubbles.
If you bake pedal if on the floor, you have an issue with something, probably the push rod.
And good luck, bleeding a dry system is a bitch!
Keith
The pedal is usually up, but I usually pump the brakes now and then to shake loose any bubbles.
If you bake pedal if on the floor, you have an issue with something, probably the push rod.
And good luck, bleeding a dry system is a bitch!
Keith
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 39
From: Denver, CO
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
eventually, the pads should be fairly close to the rotors. just close enough as to offer minor resistance to turning the wheel. if it is locking your rotor in place, they are tooo tight. if not, they should be good. of course test the brakes just as soon as possible once engine runs and all.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 700
Likes: 0
From: Lantana TX
I just replaced the all brake lines, new M/C, had brake booster rebuilt, and trailing arm and everything associated with it rebuilt. Started bleeding the system using silicone and motive power bleeder. Started moving the calipers by hand as some mentioned to get more air out. Here is the question: when bleeding the system should the brake pads be against the rotors so wheels won't rotate and should the brake pedal be down (I did not push it down) and hard? Don't ask me to start the car--the radiator is out so that is not possible. I answer is yes how do you get the pads away from the rotors--does that happen when the car is started? I can squeeze the rear ones by hand away from the rotors by not the front ones--maybe alittle but very hard compared to rear calipers. Thanks
I took out the pads 1 set at a time and then pushed on all the pistons individually.
1) Steps take pads out of one calip.
2) slowly press the brakes till all the pistons are out
3) connect a hose and drop it in a full bottle of fresh fluid and release the nipple.
4) press all the pistons multiple times pushing and pulling (approx 1 min) in new fluid.
5) put the pads back in and perform your preferred bleeding system
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,469
Likes: 275
From: Naples FL
Bleeding a dry brake system is very difficult. It's a lot easier if you use a pressure bleeder such as this one from Motive Products.
They're cheap enough that it's well worth the money. Since I'm on the track a lot I might flush my brake system a couple dozen times a year. That's way too often to deal with any aggravation.
Richard Newton
How to Restore and Modify Your Corvette, 1968-1982
Ultimate Garage Handbook
They're cheap enough that it's well worth the money. Since I'm on the track a lot I might flush my brake system a couple dozen times a year. That's way too often to deal with any aggravation.
Richard Newton
How to Restore and Modify Your Corvette, 1968-1982
Ultimate Garage Handbook
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 1
From: AL
lots of folks have had success with the motive and dot 3/4.
some may have had success with the motive and dot 5, but not me.
i ended up getting a diaphragm bleeder.
just for good measure, i heated the silicon on a hot plate to drive off air before putting into the bleeder.
i didn't remove the pads, but rather used a couple of flathead screwdrivers to push the pads (pistons) back into their bores one pad at a time as far as they would go. if doing this while the corresponding bleeder is open, you'll see that it helps get the air trapped in the calipers out. remove the screwdrivers and the pressure from the bleeder will push the pads out to contact the rotor.
good luck
edit: a diaphragm bleeder:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/BRA-G300.html
some may have had success with the motive and dot 5, but not me.
i ended up getting a diaphragm bleeder.
just for good measure, i heated the silicon on a hot plate to drive off air before putting into the bleeder.
i didn't remove the pads, but rather used a couple of flathead screwdrivers to push the pads (pistons) back into their bores one pad at a time as far as they would go. if doing this while the corresponding bleeder is open, you'll see that it helps get the air trapped in the calipers out. remove the screwdrivers and the pressure from the bleeder will push the pads out to contact the rotor.
good luck
edit: a diaphragm bleeder:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/BRA-G300.html
Last edited by S489; Apr 7, 2008 at 12:30 PM. Reason: added link
