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In response to my other thread "Trouble starting when hot" I've decided to look into getting an electric fuel pump. I've been looking at the Holley Blue.
My questions are (it's a 77' L-82):
1) What all do i need (lines, filter, fittings, etc.) to tie-into or replace factory stuff?
2) Where is a good place to mount it?
3) Can I install it and tie-in without dropping the fuel tank?
4) Do they make a plate to cover the hole from the mechanical fuel pump?
Anyone with pics of there installation please post.
First of all, I dont have a rear sway bar, so I had a shop construct an approximately 48 inch long aluminum bracket with a "L" cross-section. I bolted both ends of the bracket to the frame using the threaded holes where the sway bar would be installed. This gave me a good surface to mount my pump and a big filter.
The Holley blue pump is noisey. I have an Aeromotive Street and Strip pump that also includes a speed controller. At idle, the pump runs slower and then goes to full power at engine speeds above 3000 rpm. The speed controller gets it's speed signal from the HEI tach output. (It'll also work with normal distributors.)
I built my own metal fuel lines. I used CONIFER alloy lines. CONIFER is a 80% copper, 15% nickel, 5% steel alloy. It's easy to bend and flair. I ran metal lines up to the tank and connected with rubber hoses. I also install a on/off valve between the pump and tank so I could shut off fuel If I wanted to work on the lines.
I use a traditional Holley fuel regulator up front. It's available as part of a kit from Edelbrock. The kit includes a aluminum bounting bracket that mates to the four carb studs, the regulator, and two SS braid hoses to the carb.
Yes, you can get a mechanical fuel pump block off plate. I buy a lot o parts like this from Summit. They sell the Edelbrock kit also.
I mounted everything on a plate that bolts to the removable crossmember at the front of the tank. If you are using the original fuel line (no reason not to) you would want to turn what I did around - I'm running my fuel line down the left side of the frame.
I would add to what 68/70 Vette said: run the pump off a relay. In other words, run at least a 12 gage wire directly of the alternator through a relay and to the pump. Ground the pump with 12 gage. Run your ignition sourse (or switch) to the relay. Just follow the instructions that come with the relay. Make sure you get one rated for the amperage of the pump. Bosch makes good ones. This way your pump will never be starved for juice.
Mine is like Rick B's (72LS1Vette) - I did use existing feed hardline up passenger side to engine - return line is from the fuel pump back into the tank at the rear of car - I used my driver side hard evap line for the same purpose, kept the evap charcoal cannister. I also put a protective alum cover over mine to keep rocks, etc. from causing greef
Rick and mine are for LS1 engine swaps, fuel pump high output walbro - second item in pic is fuel filter/regulator (we used 99 vette for ~ 45 psi pressure, too much for most older SBCs). Rick also has a third item in there - fuel filter to keep things clean!
I would think you could use smaller volume/pressure walbro and different pressure regulator in similar fashion - depending upon your needs. Mounting back near gas tank (also like S486) is great - that application keeps the spare tire, which I lost.
72LS1 - What all is that in the pic? Pump, Filter, ???
I agree, I would love to use the existing lines, I just didn't know if I could.
In my pic I used a pre-filter (FF3504 at Autozone), a Walbro pump (not needed for a carb setup) and a C5 filter/regulator (also not needed for a carb setup). The C5 filter/regulator allows me to run a short return line back to the tank and a single line to the fuel rail of the LS1. The fuel rail has a left-side connection so I'm running the fuel line down the left side roughly where the evaporative return line would go. If you put a regulator in the engine bay you should be able to use the existing return line also. The lines are difficult to run with the body on the frame so if they are in good shape why re-invent the wheel?
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