When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 1970 350 4-bolt bare block I'm fooling with. I wanted to check main bearing clearances so I installed new std bearings and a new scat crank. I could not get any crush on plastigage. I borrowed a dial bore gauge (I don't have much experience using this) and measured the main bores perpendicular to parting line without bearings installed. #1 2.6470, #2 2.6551, #3 2.6549, #4 2.6555, #5 2.6487. Also did it diagonally (i.e. 10 o'clock and 4 o'clock, 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock) and got 2.6540 and 2.6462. I did this several times and came up with very similar numbers each time so I'm either consistently wrong or I'm in the ballpark. The crank measures #1 2.4491, #2 2.4493, #3 2.4493, #4 2.4492, #5 2.4492.
What can/should I do about this? I' don't want to go to a machine shop until I'm a little more knowledgeable.
I have a 1970 350 4-bolt bare block I'm fooling with. I wanted to check main bearing clearances so I installed new std bearings and a new scat crank. I could not get any crush on plastigage. I borrowed a dial bore gauge (I don't have much experience using this) and measured the main bores perpendicular to parting line without bearings installed. #1 2.6470, #2 2.6551, #3 2.6549, #4 2.6555, #5 2.6487. Also did it diagonally (i.e. 10 o'clock and 4 o'clock, 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock) and got 2.6540 and 2.6462. I did this several times and came up with very similar numbers each time so I'm either consistently wrong or I'm in the ballpark. The crank measures #1 2.4491, #2 2.4493, #3 2.4493, #4 2.4492, #5 2.4492.
What can/should I do about this? I' don't want to go to a machine shop until I'm a little more knowledgeable.
First be sure you have the caps on the right position and direction, they are machined this way and the bores will be all over in size like you have if on wrong.
Something is really odd. doing the math, #1 clearance should be .1979, and you plastigage didn't crush? I bet it didn't. Long step from .1 (almost .2) to .002
The caps are oriented correctly. Now, I can only say these are the caps that came with the block when I bought it so I cannot say they are for sure the correct ones.
Tim, I think you missed that the measurement is the bore without bearings.
I did also measure with the bearings but didn't see the point including that measurement in the post since it was obviously too big since the plastigage didn't crush. My point in including the measurements without bearings is that the spec (as far as I know) is 2.6410 with tolerance of +.0006 or -.0004. Mine are considerably larger, as you can see, and also seem to be not round based on the diagonal measurement. I don't know why.
So, assuming my measurements are correct can anyone recommend a course of action.
If, in fact, the bores are too large, you should get the block line-bored. They'll take meat off the caps to reduce the bore size, then bore them out to spec.
If you haven't had experience using a dial-bore gauge, you can get numbers that are several thousandths off without knowing it. Proper positioning of the gauge in the bore and properly rocking the gauge to find the smallest diameter at that measuring point are not simple things to do without training and practice. Get a friend with that experience to repeat your measurements and compare them before you trust your readings.
Tim, I think you missed that the measurement is the bore without bearings.
So, assuming my measurements are correct can anyone recommend a course of action.
I did in fact miss that-- sorry.
OK-- you have the correct measurements- and you're still too big. Either someone has swapped main caps with you or it's a brand new never been worked on block. With the main bearing diameters out of round, I'd suspect it needs to be line bored. they cut a little bit off the main caps and then hone them back to the min/max bore diameter. Offshoot is, you get a block that the main bore is 100% straight. If the crank is as straight as the block, life will be good.
I think a 400 SBC used a bigger bearing bore too- maybe someone bored this block for a 400 crank? I don't know what the numbers are-- just thinking out loud..
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.