Okay guys, I have a bone stock 80 and I am looking to mod to make a lil bit more stout but at the same time I dont want to go too crazy. So I need suggestions on where to start modding, so I can give my engine a good kick in the pants Thanks

 

I was where you are a year ago. My first question is it a L82 or L48? IMHO there is a bit of difference in the approach to build HP between the two engines. Where and how to make modest power gains. Bottom line heads, intake, exhaust for starters.

 

The '80 aluminum low-riser intake is comparable to the Edelbrock Performer (3701 or 2101). If your intake is not weeping coolant from casting porosity (the fluid eats the aluminum over the lifetime of the intake from the electrolysis), then I'd do no more than gasket match the intake.

I'd rebuild the distributor and have it recurved to favor performance over economy. And, have Lars rebuild your carb. This mod alone (recurve distro and carb rebuild-re-jet) will gain you 40-50 hp... trust me!!! And, to make the realize all that you can from the rest of the mods, you have to do this.

Then, install better heads. I have the DART iron eagle 180cc intake runner heads. I'd go with the 64cc heads instead of my 72cc heads. OR, if you like Vortec heads/intake, go that route but you have to change the intake ($$$).

Then, nice 1 5/8" long tube headers, true duals, crossover/x-pipe and nice set of turbo mufflers. I have Heddman Jet-Hot coated headers, custom 2.5" duals, H-pipe just rearward of the trans x-member and Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers.

My L48 engine isn't producing gobs of power but I have 225rwhp/289rwtq. That works out to a tad over 300hp at the crank. This is sufficient to smoke the tires off the line and well into 2nd (I have a 700R4 conversion with 1800 stall converter from Bow-Tie Overdrive and had a new DAna 44 blueprinted and 3.54 Dana Spicer gears installed).

The car is a blast to drive, is stone-cold reliable and averages 15-18mpg hwy.

Oh, and mine is the L48. I rebuilt the engine in '99 and had flat-top hypereutectic pistons (Federal Mogul), high volume oil pump, Crane Energizer cam (.454/.454) with 216 duration at .050" lift. This is the ideal cam for my combo.

 

I am pretty sure it is a L48 but how do I find out for sure?

 

If the engine is all-original, it would have stamped steel valve covers (OEM) instead of the L82 aluminum valve covers. The air cleaner, carb, and intake are identical between the two engines.

Beyond that: The motor identification 5th digit continued through the 1980 model year when more than the base motor was available. Following are fifth digit code identifications for 1980:

1980: 8 = L-48, 6 = L-82

 

You cant go wrong with a good true dual exhaust setup and headers. That combo will be there no matter what sb engine decision you decide to do! True up the distibutor and carb as said above and see what you have then, if its not enough for you will have to get more radical and that means $$$$. Good luck and have fun with it.

 

Unless he lives in an area that checks the exhaust as part of smog testing...

 

Oh man where I live they are so many rednecks riding around with jacked-up trucks and practicallty no exhaust on them I got nothing to worry about

 

 

I know headers are great way to add some horsepower but I frequently hear of problems with keeping them tight.

 

Like I said in my first post, I was where you are a year ago, except I was sitting in Baghdad. You are gonna have to decide just how much work you are willing to do and how much HP/TQ gain you reasonably want. I was going to just replace the heads, intake and exhaust along with some 1.6:1 roller rockers ( I was looking for a 400/400 engine)...and well...... wound up building a 383 stroker.... IMHO good HP gains can be made on your L48 with a head change 64cc or smaller (maybe 58cc) to bump up the CR, (those dished pistons really dont help) get it breathing better(intake/exhaust). Not sure if the L48's had the aluminum intake like the L82's. Next step would be to swap out the cam and lifters, maybe the rockers. Definitely get your carb to Lars, Check and recurve your distributer. Good luck with your build.

As far as keeping header bolts tight. stage 8 header bolts......never come loose...

 

In my opinion, if your intake is not damaged, keep it. It is equivalent to the Edelbrock #2101 and #3701 and it won't cost you a dime to keep. My OEM intake had a problem with porosity where the water jacket back by the #8/#7 cylinders was leaking fluid onto the outside of the intake. I tried marine tex and then thought better of it... I figured if it was leaking on the outside, it could have issues on the inside and that would spell death for my engine. So, I moved to the Edelbrock #3701 which is a direct replacement and allows use of the EGR valve. Vacuum ports are moved around a bit and I found that the port just aft of the carb couldn't be removed unless I removed the carb first. Other than that, easy replacement.

If you have a q-jet carb, contact Lars and have him rebuild it. You will spent about $125 less than the price of that Edelbrock 1406/#2101 intake and you'll have a better carb (in my opinion, I've not heard alot of good about the 1406 carb... it is the old Carter AFB body if I'm not mistaken). Your q-jet will flow more and be more predictable and tuneable once Lars lays hands on it. Also, if you have the distro recurved (see if Lars can do that also...) Lars can also re-jet your carb to suit the re-curve... it may require/tolerate more fuel... especially if you move up to a nice set of headers and a better exhaust system. The Hedmann 63801 (I think that is the number) have the A.I.R. provisions so you can use them in place of stock manifolds. If you have smog inspections, go with a higher flow converter. If not.... then have a 'custom cat back' exhaust system (aka. a true dual setup) installed by your favorite custom muffler shop that bends pipes. They will likely require that you allow them to say 'cat back system' on the receipt no matter what style of exhaust (OEM or true dual) is installed. Have them install your favorite turbo mufflers. And, if you can afford it, an H- or X-pipe. You will be happy with the results and the total for these mods is under $1,000 and you will see substantial performance improvement. These are the cheapest mods you can make without tearing the engine apart.

The L48 has the venerable '300hp' cam. It is a mild grind that was offered in the base motor in the vettes in the late 60's/early 70's. Step up to a single pattern Crane Energizer cam and you will be very happy. I have the 216 degree duration @ .050" with .454/.454 total lift with 1.5R rockers. This is an IDEAL cam that will truly make your engine happy... especially with the stock 3.08 gears and OEM TH350 trans/converter. I moved up to the 700R4 trans, 1800 stall converter and 3.54 spicer gears and the car is a BLAST to drive.

Next are cam, heads, shortblock rebuild (pistons)....

 

Whats up guys I wanted to revive this thread to see if I could get some more input thx

 

For around $600 you can do a Vortec head and intake top end with a new cam and lifter combo, and get about 100 more HP than your stock L48 has.

 

That's cheap! Where do you buy your parts?

 

Various places.

Vortec heads - $140 + Shipping - Salvage yard
Vortec Manifold - $140 - Ebay
Cam and Lifters - $100 - Summit
Timing Set - $40 - Local
Springs - $50 - Ebay
Gaskets and Fluids - $50 -Local

Might be some various other costs, but the big parts are above.

 

Hey GZVette, I tried replying to that last PM but your box is full and you don't accept emails.

 

From Summit
Vortec heads $289 each
vortec performer $175
crane energizer + lifters $127
$880 total plus gaskets, coolant, oil, etc. Call it $900 Aw hell, forgot the timing set and springs, better make that $1000.

 

I cleaned it out sorry and I will have to fix that about the email.

 

Your way seems a bit more expensive, due to the NEW heads, more expensive cam and lifters, and the higher priced version of that intake. Some would rather do it for $600 or less, and source the parts.