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This tranmission is not in my C3, its in my 97 Camaro SS, but I'm hoping someone here will have some ideas. For a little background, the car had a fairly new clutch and the slave was replaced within the last 20k miles. I was driving on the interstate, and it wouldn't downshift out of 6th...well, I eventually got it into 2nd, and got off the road. Before this, it shifted fine...no noise, no jumping out of gear, no hydraulic issues. I limped it how, took it apart, and didn't really see anything wrong. The hydraulics looked ok. Since I had it apart, and had a new McLeod disk and pressure plate, I put them in. No change. Someone on another forum suggested that a pin may have come loose inside the transmission (it had happened to the guy replying), but that doesn'tmake sense to me since I can shift into any gear, as long as the engine isn't running. Any ideas? I have a T56 rebuild manual and will tear into this thing if I have to, but I'm thinking maybe it is the hydraulics...even though they aren't leaking, and the fluid level is adequate. Could it by bypassing internally and not building pressure?
Sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging to me, which would lead me to believe it is a hydraulic problem. Does the clutch feel spongey, It could have got air in it and not be disengaging all the way. I am no expert but that would be my best guess. It never hurts to bleed the system if you have the time and tools
Try contacting Amber @ SixSpeed, Inc. Everybody swears by them on the LS1tech forum and other forums. I will be ordering my Viper T56 for my 69 vette from them today.
Sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging to me, which would lead me to believe it is a hydraulic problem. Does the clutch feel spongey, It could have got air in it and not be disengaging all the way. I am no expert but that would be my best guess. It never hurts to bleed the system if you have the time and tools
What baffles me is, how does it go from no clutch issue at all to suddenly no clutch, while crusing at 2000 rpm? Thats what has me. The car is at my parents house (it was closer than going home), so I can't run out and check, but I have never had to bleed an LT1 clutch. Just dumped in some fluid, pump it a couple of times, and its good. I'll be able to check sometime this week, just to be sure.
Try contacting Amber @ SixSpeed, Inc. Everybody swears by them on the LS1tech forum and other forums. I will be ordering my Viper T56 for my 69 vette from them today.
What baffles me is, how does it go from no clutch issue at all to suddenly no clutch, while crusing at 2000 rpm? Thats what has me. The car is at my parents house (it was closer than going home), so I can't run out and check, but I have never had to bleed an LT1 clutch. Just dumped in some fluid, pump it a couple of times, and its good. I'll be able to check sometime this week, just to be sure.
What baffles me is, how does it go from no clutch issue at all to suddenly no clutch, while crusing at 2000 rpm? Thats what has me.
The pickups with the ZF 6-speeds would also lose the clutch after extended highway driving, and this was do to excessive heat boiling the fluid in the clutch master cylinder. Not sure what the problem is, but something to consider. Can't remember the exact procedure, but Chevy had a test to diagnose a clutch that was not fully disengaging. Let it idle in neutral for a minute or two or after you have been driving it and it's hot, then push in the clutch, wait I think 3 or 4 seconds and then go straight to reverse. If it grinds, the clutch is not disengaging properly. Somebody might correct the number of seconds you are supposed to wait, maybe it's a little longer.
The pickups with the ZF 6-speeds would also lose the clutch after extended highway driving, and this was do to excessive heat boiling the fluid in the clutch master cylinder. Not sure what the problem is, but something to consider. Can't remember the exact procedure, but Chevy had a test to diagnose a clutch that was not fully disengaging. Let it idle in neutral for a minute or two or after you have been driving it and it's hot, then push in the clutch, wait I think 3 or 4 seconds and then go straight to reverse. If it grinds, the clutch is not disengaging properly. Somebody might correct the number of seconds you are supposed to wait, maybe it's a little longer.
So did the heat break the fluid down permanently, or did they recover afterwards? When this happened (its been several months, and I haven't had time to deal with it), it was VERY hot...we're talking 100 degrees or so, Atlanta traffic.Maybe I need to remove the slave and just replace the fluid...hmmm
I agree I think it sounds like a key in one of the synchronizers.
I have a T56 in my Corvette and just had the same thing happen to me. Just one day got stuck in 4th gear. Drove it a couple of more times after that with no problem, them boom, stuck in third gear.
Got the tranny out, it was the pins in the 3rd / 4th synchro.
I bet that is your problem except with 5th / 6th synchro.
Hold on the clutch pedal with the car stopped and the engine idling with the windows down, then drop it suddenly (in neutral) you should be able to hear it smack against the flywheel. I have a T56 in my C3 and I can hear it drop. If you don't hear anything I would suspect the hydraulics, check for fluid leaks and check the fluid level.
I agree I think it sounds like a pin in one of the synchronizers.
I have a T56 in my Corvette and just had the same thing happen to me. Just one day got stuck in 4th gear. Drove it a couple of more times after that with no problem, them boom, stuck in third gear.
Got the tranny out, it was the pins in the 3rd / 4th synchro.
I bet that is your problem except with 5th / 6th synchro.
Would yours go into gear with the engine off? And how hard was that to fix?
Last edited by 1981Z06Vette; Apr 16, 2008 at 04:54 AM.
Hold on the clutch pedal with the car stopped and the engine idling with the windows down, then drop it suddenly (in neutral) you should be able to hear it smack against the flywheel. I have a T56 in my C3 and I can hear it drop. If you don't hear anything I would suspect the hydraulics, check for fluid leaks and check the fluid level.
My car is loud (high compression, big cam, LOUD exhaust) so I probably won't be able to hear anything, but I will try it.
My car is loud (high compression, big cam, LOUD exhaust) so I probably won't be able to hear anything, but I will try it.
My blower whine is deafening at idle, I have big heads and a big cam aswell. And I have long tube headers flowing into dual 3" mandrel bent pipes quieted only by straight through Dynomax bullet mufflers. But I can still hear the clutch smack.
Would yours go into gear with the engine off? And how hard was that to fix?
I could shift it a couple of times after it got stuck the first time (on/off). The second time I got it stuck in gear was the last time I could shift, period. I think it had only broke one key the first time, but then I broke the other two the second time it happened.
Did you try to turn on the car and put it in reverse (if it grinds it is clutch disengagement)? With nothing in front of you car...can you start it in gear, or does it try to jump?
If no on both of those, then it is a synchro.
It is hard to fix, you need specialty tools and some know how. With the right tools and the right instructions anything is easy though. There is a ton of information on the internet about the transmission.
If there are "shear pins" in that unit, and they have sheared, you're putting too much torque through the unit for it to survive. That's the purpose of a shear-pin in a tranny box....to keep it from turning to junk when you overload it.
If there are "shear pins" in that unit, and they have sheared, you're putting too much torque through the unit for it to survive. That's the purpose of a shear-pin in a tranny box....to keep it from turning to junk when you overload it.
Sorry, edited my posts to reflect the actual terminology. It is the synchronizing keys that broke in my transmission. The word "pin" was in the first post and it just "stuck".
If there are "shear pins" in that unit, and they have sheared, you're putting too much torque through the unit for it to survive. That's the purpose of a shear-pin in a tranny box....to keep it from turning to junk when you overload it.
The torque is a lot more than stock, but I have babied it since I got the new engine (has a stock type clutch in it, which slipped if I got on it hard anyway). I used to be much harder on it when it was a H/C 350...ran it for a while with a Ram HD clutch that chattered bad, and with a dual disc McLeod. Any clutch that will allow you to bark the tires in 6th (with a .50 overdrive) is putting EVERYTHING to the ground. Thats probably what did it in. I downloaded a manual for the T56, and as soon as I get the car back home I am going to tear into it. I have worked on 4 speeds before, so I'm not too intimidated. Worse case I'll take it to a rebuilder in pieces .