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Make sure to clean the mounting holes ,, I did mine with wire pipe cleaner on a drill , and antisezze the heck out of it .....also look for oriantaion,, left and right ...
After killing myself and the car getting the old shock mounts out I now need to know the tricks to getting the new ones I bought back in.
They are really tight once I get to the grooved area.
Thanks
The new shock mounts do not draw into the fork in the bearing support as the originals. When I asked about this, I was told the designer thought they would be going into a worn and rusted part that may have looser tolerance. To compensate, they made the serrations that draw into one fork larger. This is what makes the installation difficult. A brass hammer will help move it into place, but be sure you have the orientation correct first. Tighten, hammer....tighten, hammer and it will go into place. As mentioned, be sure you apply antiseize before assembly. It is lack of antiseize that made removal so difficult.
The new shock mounts do not draw into the fork in the bearing support as the originals. When I asked about this, I was told the designer thought they would be going into a worn and rusted part that may have looser tolerance. To compensate, they made the serrations that draw into one fork larger. This is what makes the installation difficult. A brass hammer will help move it into place, but be sure you have the orientation correct first. Tighten, hammer....tighten, hammer and it will go into place. As mentioned, be sure you apply antiseize before assembly. It is lack of antiseize that made removal so difficult.
I broke one of my bearing supports while removing an original shock mount , these had the serrations on both of them, but the installation went much better I agree with the antiseize use and tapping with a brass or some kind of soft heavy type hammer while tightening with a wrench, do not use an air impact gun
Make sure to clean the mounting holes ,, I did mine with wire pipe cleaner on a drill , and antisezze the heck out of it .....also look for oriantaion,, left and right ...
I remember seeing a post that explained how to tell the left from right, but can't remember exactly what it was.....can anyone help. I will be doing this later in the week.
Thanks,
Jeff
I remember seeing a post that explained how to tell the left from right, but can't remember exactly what it was.....can anyone help. I will be doing this later in the week.
Thanks,
Jeff
There is a flat area on the shock mounts and a flat area on the bearing carrier. They can only go in one way.
I remember seeing a post that explained how to tell the left from right, but can't remember exactly what it was.....can anyone help. I will be doing this later in the week.
Thanks,
Jeff
they do only go in one way but,the flats go down, the stud where the shock mounts goes inboard, the one he is picturing is the drivers side
I made sure it was aligned in the slot and then put the nut on and tightened it right up. Tightening the nut pulled it right up there.
But as others have said, make sure the holes are clean and use anti seize.
Rick is correct the flat spot is on the lower tip of the back end (back of car)
Also mine had a "L and R" stamped on each one.
Originally Posted by h2ohouse
I remember seeing a post that explained how to tell the left from right, but can't remember exactly what it was.....can anyone help. I will be doing this later in the week.
Thanks,
Jeff
Now that I look at the 4 ears I notice that each one is a different width.
I went to my local corvette shop and they showed me a box of trailing arms and every one was different.
They said that they were all over the map with specs then and that over the years after people cut the shock mounts out the ears get smaller and smaller.
I asked how small can they go and they showed me a car in the garage that the ears were less than 1/4 inch.
I was thinking about making mine stronger, but was wondering if it is needed and how to do it.
Since using a tig on cast is not fun I will play with some JB weld tonight.