, as seen on tv
trailing arm removal
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
trailing arm removal
Ok ive been working on this for awhile. The problem is Im pretty sure my trailing arm is bent, becuase a monster MI pothole ate it. So im in the process of taking out the front bolt on the trailing arm, and it is most deff rusted in place. I tried all the dw40 i can and i really dont think this bolt is ever goin to come out. What do you guys do when you take these off? I was thinking a cutting tourch up in there to cut the bolt in half where the shims are. which would mean cutting the shims too. i have all the cotter keys out and the nut off the bolt, but the bolt just will not come through there. Any advice is appreciated. thanks in advance
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,335
Likes: 416
From: Seattle Area WA
Old topic found in "Search", remove the shims if possible then the easiest and fastest way is to use a Sawzal and cut the bolt on each side of the arm using a good bimetalic blade about 6-8 inches long.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Sawzall!
Get yourself an 8 or 9 inch bimetal blade (preferably Lenox since I work for them) put a little lube on it and go at it. Should be out in a few minutes.
Get yourself an 8 or 9 inch bimetal blade (preferably Lenox since I work for them) put a little lube on it and go at it. Should be out in a few minutes.
Last edited by Gordonm; Apr 14, 2008 at 07:26 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,429
Likes: 20
From: Kingston Ontario
Pro
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 535
Likes: 1
From: Darwin, Australia NT
Im stuck on this problem too.
I hammered out one side but the other aint coming.
The shims dont come out as the are not slotted so I cant easily get access to the trailing arm bolt to saw it out. Almost looking like I need to take the body off.
I hammered out one side but the other aint coming.
The shims dont come out as the are not slotted so I cant easily get access to the trailing arm bolt to saw it out. Almost looking like I need to take the body off.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every Model vs Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
5 MOST and 5 LEAST Popular Corvette Model Years in History!
Joe Kucinski
2027 Corvette Buyer's Guide: Everything You Need to Know!
Joe Kucinski
10 Things C8 Corvette Owners Hate (But Won't Tell You)
Joe Kucinski
10 Best Corvettes Coming to Barrett-Jackson Palm Beach 2026!
Brett Foote
Every Corvette Grand Sport Explained! (C2, C4, C6, C7, & C8)
Joe Kucinski
Grand Sport & Grand Sport X Launch Alongside All-New 535hp LS6 V8!
Michael S. Palmer
5 Reasons Bad Drivers Crash & 5 Ways to Avoid a Costly Mistake!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Yeah Im thinking that im just goin to go ahead and torch it. unless I can get the sawzall blade in between the shims, when the new one goes in you can bet im goin to grease it so hopefully if i ever have to do this again it wont be such a pita. would be nice if it would just slide right out....
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 1
From: Port Clinton Ohio
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Do you have an air hammer. I got my left one out in about 3 minutes. The right one had a little more rust and took about 15 minutes but was still relatively effortless. Just spray it down good with PB Blaster and let it soak for a few hours before you start.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,802
Likes: 61
From: Wichita KS
Me and a couple of friends just did mine Sunday. The shims were rusted solid so we sprayed PB Blaster liberally often and worked the largest shims up and down until they came out. Tooks about 30 minutes or so. Lots of crap built up in the cavity that needed to be cleaned out so we could get to the bottom of the shims.
Once the shims were out a sawzall was used to cut the bolts on each side of the t/a through the bushings.
cc
Once the shims were out a sawzall was used to cut the bolts on each side of the t/a through the bushings.
cc
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,679
Likes: 6
From: Charles Town WV
When I did mine years ago, I went and got the biggest nail I could find at Home depot, heated it with a torch and bent it like this. This nail is like a foot and a half long. This way I could get a straight shot at the bolt and knock it out without hitting the fender. It moves the point of impact into the fenderwell and gives you much more room to hit it with a decent blow. It took me about 5 minutes to whap it out this way and I didn't have to cut anything. The bolts were rusted in badly too.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
8" sawzall blades are the ONLY ones to use. 6" are too short, 9" will hit the back of the pocket. Lennox and DeWalt are the only two 8" blades I've ever heard of - I used three DeWalts on my T/A bolts.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
WD40 isn't going to do anything for rusted parts. Use either PB Blaster as others have said or get some Kroil which is supposed to be even better. If soaking with PB for a week doesn't loosen the bolts you will need to use the Sawzall. Buy good blades since I believe the bolts are grade 8. I use LOTS of PB on my cars and I still had to saw off the trailing arm bolts on the 72. Sometimes Mother Nature wins.
Rick B.
Rick B.