another diff. removal question.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,775
Likes: 4
another diff. removal question.
one bolt to go... the front bolt on the diff that goes through the bushings. the whole things is spinning freely, and i cant get anything ontop of the bolt head so i can break the nut free.
so.... any ideas?
so.... any ideas?
Pro
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 708
Likes: 61
From: Waterford CT
I did two of these within the last year and you should have no trouble getting a box end wrench on the top bolt. I don't recall the size but may have been 5/8" or 11/16". You can't see it but feeling it should be all you need to get the wrench in place. When you reinstal be sure to torque the bolt to the proper value (I think it was 65 lb-ft) to preload the rubber bushing or you will get some clunking when you back up and go forward again.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: Oxnard/San Luis Obispo CA
Have you taken the main driveshaft out yet? When I did mine I couldn't get that part out until I had gotten the driveshaft out of the way.
Also, an offset box-end wrench will do wonders for those types of situations
Also, an offset box-end wrench will do wonders for those types of situations
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,244
Likes: 114
From: Watkins Glen NY
I did two of these within the last year and you should have no trouble getting a box end wrench on the top bolt. I don't recall the size but may have been 5/8" or 11/16". You can't see it but feeling it should be all you need to get the wrench in place. When you reinstal be sure to torque the bolt to the proper value (I think it was 65 lb-ft) to preload the rubber bushing or you will get some clunking when you back up and go forward again.
I thought it was 9/16, but I just can't remember. In any case, I had no problems accessing area at all.My driveshaft, I left it in.
Last edited by champs65; Apr 15, 2008 at 09:34 PM. Reason: add info
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
From: Oxnard/San Luis Obispo CA
I was planning on taking in my driveshafts to be balanced so there wasnt much of a decision to be made whether or not to take it out. If you are taking the Diff out you might as well get the driveshaft and halfshafts balanced at the same time.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 14,345
Likes: 4
From: Hartselle AL
St. Jude Donor '09
Ditto on above about the box end wrench and leaving the drive shaft in. Replaced my old bushings last week with everything still attached. It took longer to clean up and paint the mounting piece than to replace the bushings.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,775
Likes: 4
did you guys use some massively offset wrenches? mine have about a one inch offset, but theres no way i can find to get it on there, i keep hitting the storage bins, and its still another inch or 2 a way from even coming close to going on hte bolt head.
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Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
I didn't have a problem getting to that bolt head, I think I might have come in on it directly under the driveshaft. I used the open end of the wrench to grab it, rather than the box end.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,775
Likes: 4
looks like im going to have to cut it out anyways. the bushings have collapsed in on them selfs so much that i cant get a wrench on the head. the bushings are pressed up pretty tight against the head.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,775
Likes: 4
ok, last question here. i have the front bolt out (heated up the nut, and put a pair of vice grips on the threads and a wrench on the nut, poped off pretty easily) and the 2 Xmember bolts out.
sat there prying and hammering on it for 10-15 mins and theres very little movement. a few people mentioned putting a gear puller on there and popping it off that way. any one care to explain how they set that up?
sat there prying and hammering on it for 10-15 mins and theres very little movement. a few people mentioned putting a gear puller on there and popping it off that way. any one care to explain how they set that up?
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
From: McLouth Kansas
I pried mine out with a 4 foot or so piece of round steel that was about a inch in diameter. I heated up the end and flattened it some for more bearing space. I stuck her in there and beared down on it and she popped. When you put it back in grease it, inside the cup and every where with some waterproof grease.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,930
Likes: 15
From: Calgary Alberta
I pried mine out with a 4 foot or so piece of round steel that was about a inch in diameter. I heated up the end and flattened it some for more bearing space. I stuck her in there and beared down on it and she popped. When you put it back in grease it, inside the cup and every where with some waterproof grease.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
ok, last question here. i have the front bolt out (heated up the nut, and put a pair of vice grips on the threads and a wrench on the nut, poped off pretty easily) and the 2 Xmember bolts out.
sat there prying and hammering on it for 10-15 mins and theres very little movement. a few people mentioned putting a gear puller on there and popping it off that way. any one care to explain how they set that up?
sat there prying and hammering on it for 10-15 mins and theres very little movement. a few people mentioned putting a gear puller on there and popping it off that way. any one care to explain how they set that up?
2) get a two-jaw adjustable gear puller.
3) put the threaded shaft on the bolt, with the adjustable ears hooked on the crossmember. It'll pop loose without much effort.
You need the bolts back in both to push against and to keep the whole thing from flying out when it comes loose.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,775
Likes: 4
sounds good.
that also brings up something i was wondering about. how long are these bolts supposed to be? i swear mine cant be much over an inch. they just seem so short for how much theyre holding in.
that also brings up something i was wondering about. how long are these bolts supposed to be? i swear mine cant be much over an inch. they just seem so short for how much theyre holding in.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Sounds about right. If they're too long, they'll run through the cone mount and hit the frame above it. Not good for clamping power. The actual interface area in the cone is only about the thickness of a regular nut, so extra length is wasted anyway. If you think about it, it's not really holding much - the weight of the car and the tension of the spring usually keep it jammed in place quite nicely.
Intermediate
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Oak Creek WI
1) put the crossmember bolts back in about halfway.
2) get a two-jaw adjustable gear puller.
3) put the threaded shaft on the bolt, with the adjustable ears hooked on the crossmember. It'll pop loose without much effort.
You need the bolts back in both to push against and to keep the whole thing from flying out when it comes loose.
2) get a two-jaw adjustable gear puller.
3) put the threaded shaft on the bolt, with the adjustable ears hooked on the crossmember. It'll pop loose without much effort.
You need the bolts back in both to push against and to keep the whole thing from flying out when it comes loose.