When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am just wondering if everybody has as much trouble installing the harmonic balancer as I do. Today, I borrowed the proper install tool at Auto Zone, sanded inside of damper and crank with 400 grit to get good sealing, but still had to pound on damper. As usual, I had to use the Lars technique with the BFH and "tap" it on. The threaded install tool just did not have the oomph needed. Finally, I could not twist the big nut on the installer. This was a stock damper and crank on my 30K mileage 454" in my '73.
I just wonder what the "tapping" does to the new bearings and main caps.
I sure hope you get a good reply. The rubber is coming out of the balancer on my 350 and I'm in the same boat. I have no high pressure air or impact tools.
You said a "stock" damper. GM part or aftermarket "stock"? Sometimes the damper needs a little honing to get it on due to tolerance differences between the damper ID and crank snout OD. My guess is a GM part shoud be ok as is, but anything aftermarket probably isn't. The ID on the damper should still be checked. If the ID is too small, a brake cylinder hone and a good digital caliper works ok for this or you can take it to a machine shop to have the inside diameter honed to within the recommended "plus or minus" diameter. Some people coat the crank snout and damper bore with oil to help it slide on. Anti-seize lubricant works well for me. Beating it on with a block of wood and a BFG isn't the recommended way to do it anymore.
By stock, I mean original OEM GM part. The balancer looked as good as new. Took it off for a cam change.
I should have known, considering how hard it was to get off, that re-install would be fun. Not sure how factory gets these things on, but big blocks appear to be really tight sometimes. I used lube on everything, but lube will only help so much. I wouldn't think you would have to hone these things, but I may try it next time.
Try heating the balancer in boiling water for several minutes then slipping it on quickly and tighten it down fast before the crank snout heats up much, makes a big differance!
Try heating the balancer in boiling water for several minutes then slipping it on quickly and tighten it down fast before the crank snout heats up much, makes a big differance!
Manufaturers recommend imersing it in boiling water for 10 mins, then installing it w/o letting it cool. theory says it should expand the hole, if I remember my college physics right, 212°F.
I thought they they determined that heating those things is not the right way to go anymore... because if you get them too hot the rubber loses its adhesion and can slip?
I couldn't get mine to go on easy either... but then I realized that you have to lube the crank snout and grease the threads of the installer tool... its was a must and made things go from impossible to almost easy...
I'm glad you have it on though... sounds like the BFH was the tried and true method for many years... don't think it would just "stop" working...
I would not have used sand paper, as that might have made it a bit harder. The snout and bore in the balancer need to be perfectly smooth. Also, the oil is a big help, both on the snout and on the threads of the install tool.
Finally, leverage is your friend. When using balancer and power steering install tools I will use long handled tools or even a small pipe slid over the handles to get myself that extra bit of leverage.
I'm getting ready to put mine on the SB. Instructions say to bake it in the oven at a specific low temp for 20 min or so and then "tap" it on but I plan to use the installer tool.
A8skyhawk, Trace, I used a similar intall tool from Auto Zone's borrow program. It is a little different than the one you referenced. I think part of my problem was the design of the tool for my purposes. The bearing retainer that the large nut bears on was a little too small in diameter to get a full surface fit on the inside of the balancer. When applying force, the bearing retainer would actually deform and the bearings almost fell out. Any more force would have junked the tool.
My sanding on the outside of the balancer was to get a proper "tooth" for the seal to seat into. The sanding on the inside was an attempt to increase clearances to get it to go on easier. Sanding was "in and out" so no increased friction would result. The inside of the OEM balancer had radial machine marks in it from the factory. My attempt at sanding did nothing to remove these markings or increase size of opening. Honing would be only way since metal is so hard.