Interior Carpet Replacement Willcox corvette..
What different layers should I use and the order of them etc.....
If possible link me to the item from willcox corvette its where Im going to buy it from....
its a 79 by the way...whats the difference between the 3 door and 2 door cut pile?
This is one of the distinguishing factors between early and late 1979 cars.
Other things would include metal wiper switch cover, and an different turn signal lever. There are also other things but these are the simple ones.
Many people use the rear floor deadener under the carpet set. While on original cars there was only a thin sheet of heat barrier made out of a foil substance that glued to the floor.
The key to having a car with as little heat in it as possible is to insulate the car as well as possible without making the under layment so thick that you can’t install the carpet set.
On cars in our shoe we can use any of these items below. The basic issue is the budget the customer has and how well he wants to eliminate heat.
Deadener options:
http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=17982
Works great, but tends to not insulate as well as the deadener below. Also has a puffy feel under the carpet set. While it’s good and works well, what is listed below works better.
http://willcoxcorvette.com/advanced_...s=underlayment
Works best, is more money, and is only for the front of the floor area. Most people think the cars had deadener in the back of the car when in fact there were only two little deadener strips on each wheel well hump. I would use this kit in our shop combined with the heat barrier below.
Heat barrier:
http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...oducts_id=2282
Heat barrier provides up to 2300 degrees of heat insulation. This stuff really works and is the best there is on the market. Combined with the fact that it is only 1/8” thick it will not alter the installation of the carpet.
No link:
I have used in the past on cars what is termed “AC Duct Insulation” This can be purchased from any Home Depot, or Lowe’s. This comes in a roll and is has a self adhesive backing to it. It has a real low heat insulation range (about 800 degrees) but combined with any of the deadeners above will work just fine. Installation is as easy as rolling it out, and cutting to fit with a trim knife. Doing one car can take two rolls of this and it should cost you about 30.00 per rolls. This stuff really works good and is cheaper than the high dollar stuff.
Carpet notes:
On your car there should be two grommets located in the center of the floor pan in the front. There is one per side and they stick through the floor and have a + in the bottom of them. These are floor drain plugs and must be in the car when you do the install. They are basically one way drains which will allow water to drain but not allow it to splash up in to the car.
When installing carpet in your car it is always a good idea to take the carpet set out of the box the day before you install it. Allow the carpet to sit in direct sunlight for at least 6 hours to re-take it’s old form.
When installing carpet sets in cars, it’s our practice to always clear everything out of the floor board. With this done, we will then stick halogen lamps in the interior floor board of the car. Make sure the lamps are not touching anything that it could catch on fire and then cover the car with a car cover! Once you have this done, turn off all the lights and get under the car and look for holes. If you can raise the car on a lift it helps, but if not you can jack the car up and sit it on jack stands. This will allow you to see even the tinniest hole in the floor and seal it before you install.
You should also look at the firewall while you are doing this! Missing grommets in your fire wall is the fastest way to get heat in your car.
Food for though and I hope this helps you.
Willcox Inc.



