ok...im pizzed about cooling
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 0
From: bottom of the sea
ok...im pizzed about cooling
i cant drive my vette more than 20 mins without it running hot. it never boils over but it creeps upto 200 or more if im sitting still and its not even hot outside yet. its got everything, new 4 row copper rad, flex-a-lite dual fans, all seals, the spoiler ect...
i never had this problem with the stock fan but i never had the stock fan on my new engine! i need some advice. is it the fans? they cant seem to keep up because as it gets hotter, the fans have to keep running and blow a fuse or melt the wires. im not a fan of aluminum rads but im not opposed to them. ive even smoothed the head jackets AND the inside of my manifold and t- stat housing to ensure good flow.
HELP!!!
i never had this problem with the stock fan but i never had the stock fan on my new engine! i need some advice. is it the fans? they cant seem to keep up because as it gets hotter, the fans have to keep running and blow a fuse or melt the wires. im not a fan of aluminum rads but im not opposed to them. ive even smoothed the head jackets AND the inside of my manifold and t- stat housing to ensure good flow.
HELP!!!
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
If the fans are blowing fuses or melting wires then you need to re-wire it all with heavier duty relays, fuses, and wiring...quickly, before you end up with a fire.
Now, two things come to mind that you didn't touch on. Mixture and timing. If you're mixture is lean it'll run hot, and if your timing is retarded, it'll run hot.
Check out or verify those two things.
Now, two things come to mind that you didn't touch on. Mixture and timing. If you're mixture is lean it'll run hot, and if your timing is retarded, it'll run hot.
Check out or verify those two things.
Last edited by Durango_Boy; Apr 22, 2008 at 10:16 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,077
Likes: 0
From: westmoreland N.H.
take your thermostat out ,and run it without . if the temp does not go very hot ,you have a bad t-stat. with all the new stuff it should'nt over heat. i had a brand new t-stat go bad on me just recently thats why i suggest this...
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 14,345
Likes: 4
From: Hartselle AL
St. Jude Donor '09
1. Timing - make sure it is correct. If not, nothing else will solve the issue and other bigger problems will arise. Been there, done that, have the T-shirt.
2. As DB said, make sure the wiring is up to gauge for the load.
3. Change the termostat to both a cooler opening one AND a "Fail to Open" one. That way you know that you're not boiling your engine while the rad stays cool.
Good luck.
2. As DB said, make sure the wiring is up to gauge for the load.
3. Change the termostat to both a cooler opening one AND a "Fail to Open" one. That way you know that you're not boiling your engine while the rad stays cool.
Good luck.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,004
Likes: 7
From: Adelaide South Australia
check the thermostat.
Get a clear glass container, a thermometer and boil some water.
Half fill container with mixture of boiling water and tepid water to get a temp around the stamped thermostat temp rating. just below temp is best.
Place the thermostat in the container, and check the temp.
slowly add boiling water to the container to raise temp gradually.
Monitor the temp as you watch the thermostat valve. It should begin to open around the temp it is rated at. By 15 deg over, it should be well and truly fully open.
You can monitor the temps on the way down as it cools too, if you wish, to verify that the thermostat does close at the appropriate temp.
A few years back, I had a brand new thermostat that refused to open, and wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it.
This is a good cheap check to use before putting in a new thermostat.
Last edited by OzzyTom; Apr 21, 2008 at 09:03 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 14,345
Likes: 4
From: Hartselle AL
St. Jude Donor '09
check the thermostat.
Get a clear glass container, a thermometer and boil some water.
Half fill container with mixture of boiling water and tepid water to get a temp around the stamped thermostat temp rating. just below temp is best.
Place the thermostat in the container, and check the temp.
slowly add boiling water to the container to raise temp gradually.
Monitor the temp as you watch the thermostat valve. It should begin to open around the temp it is rated at. By 15 deg over, it should be well and truly fully open.
You can monitor the temps on the way down as it cools too, if you wish, to verify that the thermostat does close at the appropriate temp.
A few years back, I had a brand new thermostat that refused to open, and wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it.
This is a good cheap check to use before putting in a new thermostat.
Sorry OzzyTom, couldn't resist.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,038
Likes: 39
From: Denver, CO
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
just a quick thought...
maybe im incorrect about vette t-stats, but any other thermostat ive ever bought has only been like 5-10 bucks... if your gonna pull it out and check it, u might as well throw in a new one anyways.. least in my opinion
maybe im incorrect about vette t-stats, but any other thermostat ive ever bought has only been like 5-10 bucks... if your gonna pull it out and check it, u might as well throw in a new one anyways.. least in my opinion
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 911
Likes: 5
From: TN
Vacuum advance
Does your distributor have vacuum advance?
If it does is the vacuum advance unit working?
Do you have full time vacuum source connected to the vacuum advance unit?
All questions should be answered yes.
If it does is the vacuum advance unit working?
Do you have full time vacuum source connected to the vacuum advance unit?
All questions should be answered yes.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 963
Likes: 0
From: melbourne,Australia
i cant drive my vette more than 20 mins without it running hot. it never boils over but it creeps upto 200 or more if im sitting still and its not even hot outside yet. its got everything, new 4 row copper rad, flex-a-lite dual fans, all seals, the spoiler ect...
i never had this problem with the stock fan but i never had the stock fan on my new engine! i need some advice. is it the fans? they cant seem to keep up because as it gets hotter, the fans have to keep running and blow a fuse or melt the wires. im not a fan of aluminum rads but im not opposed to them. ive even smoothed the head jackets AND the inside of my manifold and t- stat housing to ensure good flow.
HELP!!!
i never had this problem with the stock fan but i never had the stock fan on my new engine! i need some advice. is it the fans? they cant seem to keep up because as it gets hotter, the fans have to keep running and blow a fuse or melt the wires. im not a fan of aluminum rads but im not opposed to them. ive even smoothed the head jackets AND the inside of my manifold and t- stat housing to ensure good flow.
HELP!!!
Racer
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 254
Likes: 5
From: ingleside illinois
fans
I think your electric fans are puller right,so you dont have an engine mounted fan.I would put a flex fan on the waterpump,install 1 or 2 in front of radiator,a pusher fan,make sure it is turning in the right direction-it is easy to hook up wrong take a cigarette and make sure its sucking the smoke in the engine Ha had to say that.Definetly check timing and mixture.I run a 540 no shroud flex fan on engine and 1 pusher in front of radiator.I have had this setup for 20+ yrs and have never had a problem.! thing i never do is install a t stat i dont care what anyone says,their wont be 1 in my engine jmo.......The part with the wires melting doesnt make sense are you running speaker wires to them-make sure you have a good guage wire to fan..........
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,004
Likes: 7
From: Adelaide South Australia
using the missus's new stainless steel saucepan...
Thought I'd get away with it, cept I left telltale grease marks on the cooktop and saucepan.
As I said, I've only done it that way once.
Our women are bred mean down here!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,004
Likes: 7
From: Adelaide South Australia
Hey Rebc3,
No info on your motor in your sig.
What are we talking about here?
Is it a relative stocky or is it a wild cammed race engine?
You did a recent rebuild..... what was done?
No info on your motor in your sig.
What are we talking about here?
Is it a relative stocky or is it a wild cammed race engine?
You did a recent rebuild..... what was done?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 20,905
Likes: 962
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
And as a previous poster noted, 200 degrees is not a big deal. Regardless, check the idle timing just to make sure it's correct, and also (I hate to admit it), I gotta agree with DB on getting your wiring situation corrected.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 0
From: bottom of the sea
ok.. its a typical 383 with a 540 lift cam. nothing stock at all. the mixture i set myself so who knows. i turn the screws out about 1 turn on my 850 dbl. pump demon. with this setting it doesnt smoke and runs great. as for timing ive got the msd billit set at zero and zero in the timing maps and i set base timing to about 13 btdc. this is were it seems to run best for me. any more advance and it will ping under a load.
my t-stat is a high flow 180 deg. fail safe stat. it will run at 180 for about 20 mins. of driving and then start to creep up. it will eventually go down to 180 again if i drive at speed with no one in front of me. but if i stop at a light or drive it hard it will creep up.
right now im thinking that the fans are kicking in and staying on while its hot and are running and running....so i get a blown fuse or melted wires. so this makes me think that the fans cant keep up. these flex-a-lites also do NOT have any flapper doors for air to escape like newer fans. so should i go back to the stock fan or upgrade the electrics, or go to an aluminum rad which should not be needed and i hate spending that much money on?
my t-stat is a high flow 180 deg. fail safe stat. it will run at 180 for about 20 mins. of driving and then start to creep up. it will eventually go down to 180 again if i drive at speed with no one in front of me. but if i stop at a light or drive it hard it will creep up.
right now im thinking that the fans are kicking in and staying on while its hot and are running and running....so i get a blown fuse or melted wires. so this makes me think that the fans cant keep up. these flex-a-lites also do NOT have any flapper doors for air to escape like newer fans. so should i go back to the stock fan or upgrade the electrics, or go to an aluminum rad which should not be needed and i hate spending that much money on?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 14,345
Likes: 4
From: Hartselle AL
St. Jude Donor '09
What temp sensor sending unit are you using? Also, are you only using the dash gauge as your indication of temps?
When I did my efan install and even after getting my timing correct and a fail safe stat, the gauge would read like you describe. Replaced the sending unit with a "certified" one from Zip and now the gauge reads consistently.
When I did my efan install and even after getting my timing correct and a fail safe stat, the gauge would read like you describe. Replaced the sending unit with a "certified" one from Zip and now the gauge reads consistently.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 16,100
Likes: 17
Use a Raytek and take comparison readings...you can even determine temp drop across rad....and when your T-Stat opens....
My temp kit....use the thermometer for A/C....
My temp kit....use the thermometer for A/C....
Last edited by rihwoods; Apr 22, 2008 at 01:05 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 20,905
Likes: 962
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
ok.. its a typical 383 with a 540 lift cam. nothing stock at all. the mixture i set myself so who knows. i turn the screws out about 1 turn on my 850 dbl. pump demon. with this setting it doesnt smoke and runs great. as for timing ive got the msd billit set at zero and zero in the timing maps and i set base timing to about 13 btdc. this is were it seems to run best for me. any more advance and it will ping under a load.
......................?
......................?