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i wish to replace the upper and lower ball joints on my vette, the lowers are worn, and i want to replace the uppers as well. My question is with the lowers, which side if the rivet do i take the air chisel to? Im thinking that you remove the rivet head that is on the outside of the a-arm. Is that correct?
Even if you grind the heads off the rivets, you won't be able to pull the ball joints out (I'm talking about the uppers). The reason being is because when they riveted them at the factory, the main shank of the rivet expanded inside the ball joint hole. So, what you will need to do is take the head off of the rivets, then use you air chisel between the top of the a-arm and the bottom of the ball joint to separate the two. Work your way around the bottom of the joint until it pops loose. Good luck.
Or....you can grind the heads [or 'tails'] off the rivets, use a punch and hammer to drive out the rivet shanks, then get a bigger hammer to drive the joint out of its A-arm.
Or....you can grind the heads [or 'tails'] off the rivets, use a punch and hammer to drive out the rivet shanks, then get a bigger hammer to drive the joint out of its A-arm.
Or, if your arms are like mine, you have to take a cutting wheel on a die grinder to cut the sides of the ball joints off through the rivet holes, pry the ball joint out, then grind the rivet flat before it will finally pop out.
I ground the heads off, then drilled a hole in the center of the rivets about 3/8th " deep. I still had to put a punch in the hole and hammer them out.
I ground the heads off, then drilled a hole in the center of the rivets about 3/8th " deep. I still had to put a punch in the hole and hammer them out.
That is my method also. The rivet drills easy. I don't even grind the heads off, just center the drill and start small then step up on drill size untill it is a little smaller hole than the new rivet shank about 3/8 deep, then pop it with a punch and hammer. The head pops of and the shank drives through,
When I reinstall I have a pin out of a basement jack post i hollowed the end out on and use it in a press to crush the new rivet, with a block on head side. Rivet heads look almost the same on both sides and it was easy to remove and replace doing it this way.
totally agree with the drilling method using a pilot drill up to a bit just inside the OD of the rivet. Anytime you can skip hammering on a control arm the better. Just takes a little time and patience.
When I reinstall I have a pin out of a basement jack post i hollowed the end out on and use it in a press to crush the new rivet, with a block on head side. Rivet heads look almost the same on both sides and it was easy to remove and replace doing it this way.
why not use bolts to hold the joints on instead? NCRS?
That is my method also. The rivet drills easy. I don't even grind the heads off, just center the drill and start small then step up on drill size untill it is a little smaller hole than the new rivet shank about 3/8 deep, then pop it with a punch and hammer. The head pops of and the shank drives through,
When I reinstall I have a pin out of a basement jack post i hollowed the end out on and use it in a press to crush the new rivet, with a block on head side. Rivet heads look almost the same on both sides and it was easy to remove and replace doing it this way.
Do you have any pics of your setup to reinstall rivets on a press? I was under the impression they had to be installed after heating r ed hotand using an air hammer.
Do you have any pics of your setup to reinstall rivets on a press? I was under the impression they had to be installed after heating r ed hotand using an air hammer.
No photos, but it works like a charm and looks real nice. The rivets are pretty soft steel.
Really not necessary to replace the upper ball joints as there is hardly any wear....the lowers receive all the wear and tear.
Because a lot of people think you need to unecessarily spend money on these cars, hence the while I'm at it's, rear calipers bad, might as well do the fronts,,,,,,,,,"while I'm at it". Lowers bad, do the uppers too, inners bad, do the outers,,,, while I'm at it . Being a brokester, I only do whats necessary,, people frown on that. But,,,,,Peace, Moosie
Good point on the uppers. If they are the originals I would check to see what there is for play. The only aftermarket brand I would use is MOOG. There are a lot of cheaper joints, in both price and quality, on the market and sold in "kits"
Because a lot of people think you need to unecessarily spend money on these cars, hence the while I'm at it's, rear calipers bad, might as well do the fronts,,,,,,,,,"while I'm at it". Lowers bad, do the uppers too, inners bad, do the outers,,,, while I'm at it . Being a brokester, I only do whats necessary,, people frown on that. But,,,,,Peace, Moosie
I just have the bad feeling that if I re-install a part that's 30 years old and has 80,000 miles on it, even if it appears to be OK, I'll be ripping everything apart again to replace it in 6 months.
The age and the mileage could put a different slant on things, but if they check good ? And by the way I didnt specifically mean you and this posting but in general . These friggen cars are so expensive and will put you in the poor house with just normal upkeep without looking to find things to replace "while I'm at it". Peace,,,Moosie
The age and the mileage could put a different slant on things, but if they check good ? And by the way I didnt specifically mean you and this posting but in general . These friggen cars are so expensive and will put you in the poor house with just normal upkeep without looking to find things to replace "while I'm at it". Peace,,,Moosie
I was just speaking in general, too...when something has that much age and mileage, and is relatively difficult to replace, my feeling is that it's best to "bite the bullet" and change it with a quality part, rather than ripping it all down again before long.