Lubing turn signal arm?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 14,345
Likes: 4
From: Hartselle AL
St. Jude Donor '09
Lubing turn signal arm?
Maybe I'm spoiled with my DD being a newer/modern vehicle. Anyways, is there a way to lube or loosen up the turn signal arm especially for the lane change (press & hold) position? It seems to take almost the full pressure amount that is needed to push it past the click point. Really don't want to have to tear into the column though.
It is a '78 with T&T column.
It is a '78 with T&T column.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 113
From: Saginaw Michigan
There are two flat springs on the turn signal switch itself that detent into grooves for the lane change feature. Placing some grease on the detent positions would be the only thing that I can think of the might reduce the effort for your lane change.
They are located just above the hazard warning button on the switch. You won't have to remove the switch from your T&T column but you will have to remove the steering wheel, hub, locking plate, spring, and cancelling cam to lubricate them.
There is also what is called a "cross-over arm" that connects the turn signal switch itself to the turn signal and dimmer pivot unit (the thing that your turn signal lever plugs into). The arm has a small roller on it that could probably use some grease as well. It is held in place by a single screw. You can get at it at the same time that you have access to the flat springs.
Jim
They are located just above the hazard warning button on the switch. You won't have to remove the switch from your T&T column but you will have to remove the steering wheel, hub, locking plate, spring, and cancelling cam to lubricate them.
There is also what is called a "cross-over arm" that connects the turn signal switch itself to the turn signal and dimmer pivot unit (the thing that your turn signal lever plugs into). The arm has a small roller on it that could probably use some grease as well. It is held in place by a single screw. You can get at it at the same time that you have access to the flat springs.
Jim
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 14,345
Likes: 4
From: Hartselle AL
St. Jude Donor '09
Jim, I was hoping you would see being the resident expert in steering columns (among other things). Thank you for the detailed info and pic.
This is the part of your post that I was hoping not to see... "you will have to remove the steering wheel, hub, locking plate, spring, and cancelling cam to lubricate them".
This is the part of your post that I was hoping not to see... "you will have to remove the steering wheel, hub, locking plate, spring, and cancelling cam to lubricate them".
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,154
Likes: 1
From: St Augustine FL
Not a big deal to remove that stuff. You need a phillips head screw driver and a set of allen keys...Take a part and put back together in less than 30 min. Dont forget to becarefull when removing the horn contact spring. Its easy to lose the plastic piece on the end of the spring. Other than that its simple....
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 14,345
Likes: 4
From: Hartselle AL
St. Jude Donor '09
bluesilver82, thanks. Obviously I need to read/research how that is assembled. I was assuming that I would at least need to use a steering wheel puller. Have already had the cap and ring off to fix the horn button spring/contact, so am aware of how that little part works.
