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Oil viscosity affects pinging?

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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 05:18 PM
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Default Oil viscosity affects pinging?

Someone told me over the weekend that I could try a couple things to reduce pinging. First is a heavier oil. Second is a colder plug. I am also looking for a way to try higher octane fuel. The best I can find is Shell 93.The first two suggestions don't sound plausable to me. Any thoughts?
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 05:20 PM
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I have never heard of oil viscosity having an effect on pinging. Higher octane gas is another story.
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 05:31 PM
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Definately plugs and octane, but a heavier oil? That is one I have not heard before. Carbon deposits in the combustion chamber can cause pre-detonation, I guess a heavier oil would have a harder time finding its way into the cylinder.
I'd work on plugs and octane first.
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay-Dog
Someone told me over the weekend that I could try a couple things to reduce pinging. First is a heavier oil. Second is a colder plug. I am also looking for a way to try higher octane fuel. The best I can find is Shell 93.The first two suggestions don't sound plausable to me. Any thoughts?

Thin oil can find its way into the combustion chamber, where it can make pinging more likely than with fuel alone. This is due to the increased likelyhood of carbon build-up on everything inside the combustion chamber. This ups the compression ratio in general, as well as creating potential hot spot areas that could get you into pre-ignition/detonation issues, even with a properly timed engine. That's what they were talking about, when they said to use thicker oil, it can help prevent undue build-up. But if you have already gotten into a pinging condition, then changing oil now is sort of like closing the gate after the horse got out. What weight oil have you been using with the pinging?

Last edited by 540 RAT; Apr 30, 2008 at 08:27 PM.
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 05:40 PM
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Don't believe the oil viscosity story causing detonation. Most likely your timing map is not spot on or you are running lean.
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 05:42 PM
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I don't know the background of your problem but in case you haven't already done so you need to make sure the advance mechanism on your distributor is working properly. The easiest way to get rid of predetonation is to retard the timing which is very easy to do.
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 05:50 PM
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Octane and spark plugs, yeah!

Not sure of the oil viscosity, but if it's causing a carbon build-up in the cylinders then yes, it could be a factor.

Also suspect; could be a vacuum leak or incorrect timing. How is the ignition system (distributor and spark plug wires in good shape)?
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 07:27 PM
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I don't see the correlation between oil viscosity and pinging. That would mean inversly, a thinner/lighter oil would cause a properly timed car to start pinging. Not gonna happen. In most cases, pinging is caused through timing and / or lean settings on your carburetor.

If I were you, I would put the correct heat range plugs in, check all elements in your ignition system, and use that as a baseline to start with and make any other adjustments after that.
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Old Apr 30, 2008 | 10:11 PM
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how bout A NON-FUNCTIONAL egr?

the oil idea while true in theory, is not reality
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Old May 1, 2008 | 04:50 PM
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Thanks for all the replies. I'm using 10W30 oil. Can't remember which plug part numbers are in there. Anyone know what "cold" plug I should be using? They need to fit with Hooker Super Comp headers.The timing is set at 14 initial and 34 total. The EGR is disconnected. I've asked the Chevy dealer to fix it and they refused, saying that the engine will run better without it. Hmmmm. Any thoughts on an easy way to make my own 94-95 octane gas?

Jay
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Old May 1, 2008 | 05:04 PM
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Jay-Dog: Would help if we know a little more about your Vette. Have you done any mods to the engine that might contribute to pings such as smaller cc heads, flat top pistons, or anything related to the distributor or carb?
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Old May 1, 2008 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 540 RAT
Thin oil can find its way into the combustion chamber, where it can make pinging more likely than with fuel alone. This is due to the increased likelyhood of carbon build-up on everything inside the combustion chamber. This ups the compression ratio in general, as well as creating potential hot spot areas that could get you into pre-ignition/detonation issues, even with a properly timed engine. That's what they were talking about, when they said to use thicker oil, it can help prevent undue build-up. But if you have already gotten into a pinging condition, then changing oil now is sort of like closing the gate after the horse got out. What weight oil have you been using with the pinging?
540 Rat is right on the money with this one. All of what he says is true. However, I would suspect timing and fuel mix are the problem here, based on the limited info we have.
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Old May 1, 2008 | 08:23 PM
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Your timing sound about right. You shouldn't have pinging unless you've upped the compression or something. Is the engine stock? To see if higher octane fuel will help, you get get octane boost and add to your gas. Or go to a station that has race fuel, but I think that's wasting money...
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Old May 5, 2008 | 01:39 PM
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.20 over 355. Comp Cam 477 intake 480 exhaust, 268 duration. Plugs are AC #2 aka R45-TS, Hooker Super Comps, everything else pretty much stock. 14 initial timing, 34 all in. Running vacumm adv but not EGR. Shell 93 w/ 10% ethanol. I've been putting in a bottle of octane boost w/ each fill-up.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 01:50 PM
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Do you know your compression ratio?
Have you done a compression test to find out what your cranking compression is?
Bottled octane booster is mostly garbage.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 02:06 PM
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Compression ratio unknown. Originally 8.5:1. What would I learn from compression leak-down test?
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Old May 5, 2008 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay-Dog
What would I learn from compression leak-down test?
I am not sure if you are asking this for general knowledge, or if you think that is what I asked about.
Leak down tests are used to find a percentage of leakage past rings & valves.
Its usefull for finding out if your engine is worn out, among other things.
What I asked, is have you measured your cylinder pressure during cranking.
Since we know the motor has been rebuilt, we know that the compression ratio might not be stock.
Without knowing an actual compression ratio, you need something to get an idea of what it might be.
If you do a compression test and it shows 230 psi, you arent going to tune around that.
If its 180 or less and you are pinging, then its probably something you can fix without going into the motor.
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Old May 5, 2008 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by DRIVESHAFT
If you do a compression test and it shows 230 psi, you arent going to tune around that.
Does this high reading merely indicate a nice tight combustion chamber regardless of it's size? Or do you think I would get a high reading if the chamber was too small? As in small bowl and/or zero relief/flat top piston resulting in a relatively high ratio of compression? I did not build the engine. Not sure if pistons are flat top. Heads are original.

Yes, I am seriously trying to learn in general how this works.

Thanks.

Jay
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Old May 5, 2008 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay-Dog
Does this high reading merely indicate a nice tight combustion chamber regardless of it's size? Or do you think I would get a high reading if the chamber was too small? As in small bowl and/or zero relief/flat top piston resulting in a relatively high ratio of compression? I did not build the engine. Not sure if pistons are flat top. Heads are original.

Yes, I am seriously trying to learn in general how this works.

Thanks.

Jay
Just being tight wouldnt make it that high.
I actually used 230 as an extreme example. I doubt you are that high.
But somewhere around 200 psi of cranking compression you get an engine that
doesnt like to run on pump gas without pulling lots of timing out.
When your Vette was new the stock cranking compreesion probably measured around 160.
Raising the compresion ratio without installing a larger cam will make that number go up.
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Old May 10, 2008 | 12:49 PM
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Update: Compression came in between 170-175 all the way around. I switched to a colder plug. From R45TS to R43TS. Also picked up a timing light. Will re-check timing next weekend.

Jay
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