1970 Body Question
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: Southeastern PA
1970 Body Question
Can anyone tell me if the original front clip materials are FRP fiberglass or are they of the SMC variety. I need to buy an adhesive which is specific to the fiberglass type. Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Seattle Area WA
Wombvette just posted this history snippet in paint and body; "The glass started its revolution in 69 with the doors. This was an intermediate product called Genite. These panels were worked in as time went on until 71 when the first SMC panel, the rear quarter panel, was introduced. This early SMC is not quite the same as the modern SMC but it was SMC. Panels were continuously added until 74 when the whole outer body was SMC. The last polyester panel was the 73 rear deck."
Le Mans Master
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From: New Hill NC
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,734
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From: Southeastern PA
Thanks.
This is to bond the v-shaped support under the nose of the C3 to the fiberglass body above. Apparently, mine separated causing the headlamp to appear below the body when the case is the opposite.
This is to bond the v-shaped support under the nose of the C3 to the fiberglass body above. Apparently, mine separated causing the headlamp to appear below the body when the case is the opposite.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Nevada City California
In my observation over the years, the SMC fiberglass began showing up on rear quarters (fenders?) of the 1972 model. Not only is the bare texture different in appearance, but it has a different slicker feel as well. The easiest way to tell a panel is by looking at the thickness of the rear wheel wells on a '72. It is noticeably thicker, most '73's are of this material.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: Southeastern PA
Should I attempt to remove and replace the V-shaped cross member support under the headlamps or try to expoxy them? I see that the original set-up was with the soft aluminum rivets. Is this a difficult weekend driveway task?
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: New Hill NC
If it is already partially loose, the best method would be to totally remove it so you can clean up and prep the parts for bonding. It is a rather involved job because you have to remove and reinstall all of the HL stuff. You can also cleanup or replace the rivets which are a source of other problems.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,734
Likes: 2
From: Southeastern PA
If it is already partially loose, the best method would be to totally remove it so you can clean up and prep the parts for bonding. It is a rather involved job because you have to remove and reinstall all of the HL stuff. You can also cleanup or replace the rivets which are a source of other problems.
Luckily, the headlamp stuff can unbolt directly from the crossmember without too much hassle. Some of the bolts are going to require some creative wrenching. If I decide to undertake this project, I'm planning on replacing all of the soft aluminum rivets in that area and bonding with epoxy. What type of epoxy should I use for fiberglass to metal?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,918
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From: New Hill NC
Thanks...
Luckily, the headlamp stuff can unbolt directly from the crossmember without too much hassle. Some of the bolts are going to require some creative wrenching. If I decide to undertake this project, I'm planning on replacing all of the soft aluminum rivets in that area and bonding with epoxy. What type of epoxy should I use for fiberglass to metal?
Luckily, the headlamp stuff can unbolt directly from the crossmember without too much hassle. Some of the bolts are going to require some creative wrenching. If I decide to undertake this project, I'm planning on replacing all of the soft aluminum rivets in that area and bonding with epoxy. What type of epoxy should I use for fiberglass to metal?
There are many epoxies that will work, most all of them in fact, but look for one with a putty consistency so it will stay where you put it. I like a product supplied by Wurth. It is black and has pretty good consistency but many others are just as good for bonding. 3M, Fuzor, etc.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Nevada City California
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Peekskill NY
Thanks...
Luckily, the headlamp stuff can unbolt directly from the crossmember without too much hassle. Some of the bolts are going to require some creative wrenching. If I decide to undertake this project, I'm planning on replacing all of the soft aluminum rivets in that area and bonding with epoxy. What type of epoxy should I use for fiberglass to metal?
Luckily, the headlamp stuff can unbolt directly from the crossmember without too much hassle. Some of the bolts are going to require some creative wrenching. If I decide to undertake this project, I'm planning on replacing all of the soft aluminum rivets in that area and bonding with epoxy. What type of epoxy should I use for fiberglass to metal?
Secondly when you're bonding the crossmember, bolt the head light assemblies in place (center the pivot bushings in the support frame first) so you can position the assemblies as close to centered in the openings as possible. Saves a lot of time later trying to line them up.
Just a thought.
Glenn
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: New Hill NC
Why would you want to go through the top when you are removing the bar from the bottom? You dont want to do that. The least holes in the upper panel the better. Remove and clean up everything from the bottom.