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I've tried this question in C4, but since it isn't recommended with ABS, I'm not getting a lot of good feedback.
My Honda(motorcycle) doesn't have ABS, and I've already bought a quart of DOT 5 ($$$), I want to know if I should run it.
I've gotten mixed responces from Mechanics and forum members, some say its fine to run as long as you don't have ABS. Others say its only for storage use, and shouldn't be used in a daily driver.
Opinions are welcome, but I'd rather have facts. Should I run these in my daily driver? How often should I change it? Or should I stick with DOT 4 which I put in last August?
BTW, I would be running this in my braking system and hydraulic clutch.
I don't follow your logic, though. :) I don't need 700 bottles of DOT3, and I don't need wheels, I have wheels, you think I'm going to change them just because you don't like them? :p: ;) :blueangel: :boxing
The Vette gets DOT 4 because I read an article about DOT 5 bubbling when the butterflies in the ABS open and close...that can't be good for stopping.
Anyways, I have DOT 5, I just need to know if I should use it.
Lots of owners of 65-82's run dot 5. It is best to start fresh with it rather than mixing. I used Dot 5 for years with my drivers and have no trouble, HOWEVER you must get all of the air out or you will have a spongy pedal. Silicone fluid tends to foam and any pumping of the pedal during bleeding will create airation that will keep you bleeding the brakes for days. Gravity bleeding works just fine though. Once the air is out dot 5 won't attract moisture like regular fluid and that is the real benefit of using dot 5.( far less rusting and pitting of brake components). It also won't harm paint. Personally I like dot 5 and have had no problem with it. The NCRS board may have an archived article on dot 5 as it has been discussed at lenght there.
NoWrries
Hey I run Dot 5 in My C3 and my Harley. It has a boiling point of 502 degrees. Dot 3 is like 268 degrees. And if you are on your brakes hard then shut the car down it won`t break the fluid down. Plus if your car sits a for periods of time it will not draw moisture.
Hope this helps
Bob
Hear is more to think about.
I autocross my vette a lot and most of the guys I race with have had fluid breakdown with most fluids.
Many of them now use Ford Heavy Duty Truck Brake Fluid.
Yes, I said Ford but it comes well recommended if you put your fluid to extremes.
.02$
I switched to DOT5 about 20 yrs ago after three calipers started to leak (never changed original brake fluid). No problems & no more leaks but the brake pedal is not as firm as with DOT3. Silicone, I believe, is a bit more compressible than DOT3 but as someone said, doesn't absorb moisture.
Liquids are not compressable unless they get hot enough to boil. If there is water in the fluid, the water will boil at 212deg and the pedal will go away when you need it most.. So if your brake pedal is a little soft all of the time, then you still have some air in the system. Air is to silicone fluid as water is to DOT 3 or 4. It is very difficult to get all of the air out of silicone based fluid. Gravity bleed is the only way and even then you may not get it all.
Silicone, I believe, is a bit more compressible than DOT3 but as someone said, doesn't absorb moisture.
Silicone isn't more compressible, but it cavitates VERY easily. Most people inadvertently introduce air in the system when bleeding with DOT5, which causes the mushier pedal.
Personally, I don't see the point in using DOT5. No, it doesn't absorb water, but that doesn't prevent moisture from getting into your system. Then, since water is lighter than DOT5, it will coagulate in the high points of your system where it can start rusting those parts.
In my opinion, the best thing to do is use DOT3 (or DOT4 if you want a higher boiling point), and flush your system every 2 years like you're supposed to.
Silicone fluid has been used by the military for years due to decreased maintainence caused by corrosion. I worked for a brake supplier, and we tested our parts in Dot 5 as well as Dot 3. Plus it doesn't eat the paint off the Master or booster. I use a "Mityvac" brake bleeding tool and bleed at each caliper bleeder screw, and never had an air problem. If you switch to silicone, it's best to start out with a dry system. Replace hoses, rebuild calipers etc.