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Has anyone here tried a Mallory Uni-lite in place of points/condensers? I did this for reliability, performance, and wanted to keep the original look of the ignition setup. Now, after leaving the key on , it won't spark. Of course I am going to hear how bad these are, but I heard all good things from locals before I bought it. So now, what is a really good system? C'mon, let me know how stupid it was to use this Uni-lite!
The bad thing about a Unilite is not its performance or quality, but that it can blow out with a voltage spike. Maybe continuous voltage running to it when the engine is off might do the same...I don't know.
Mallory makes a voltage filter for it which, as far as I'm concerned, should either be standard equipment with it or the filter circuitry built in. Nevertheless, it sounds like that's your problem.
Basically, it's a quite good distributor, but it needs that filter. Mallory could have avoided a lot of bad rep and unhappy customers if they would build that filter in.
BTW - I missed the big cruise-in in Westminster last Sunday. I have a miserable case of bronchitis that simply won't let go. It would have been nice to meet if you had been there.
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I have one in both my 61 and my 65. They run great but after about 5 years the module goes South and they cost about $125. As roughrider stated they are succeptible to voltage spikes blowing out the module. That's probably what happened to yours. The filter does help but it's still not foolproof. I replaced the modules last year in both cars after I was getting no spark. I stuck with points in my 68.
I had one years ago. just the conversion module for Chevy's. I must've "voltage spiked" it during the install. Anyways, nowadays I prefer the magnetic trigger.
I installed the uni-lite module in my 68 Z28 back in 1973. Still going strong today. I have also used Pertronix in other vehicles, with no problems so far. Cheers.
I have one on my 383...it works great. I have no complaints..just make sure you get the right coil for it. I burned up 2 coils before buying the mallory coil that was recommended..might have just been coincidence??
Has anyone here tried a Mallory Uni-lite in place of points/condensers? I did this for reliability, performance, and wanted to keep the original look of the ignition setup. Now, after leaving the key on , it won't spark. Of course I am going to hear how bad these are, but I heard all good things from locals before I bought it. So now, what is a really good system? C'mon, let me know how stupid it was to use this Uni-lite!
I have run one for 8-10 years, without a problem, on a modified big block. Last fall when I changed engines, to a ZZ454, with aluminum heads and aluminun valve covers, I also ended up with no spark. If you have it grounded to the head, by way of the valve cover bolts, and you have iron heads, and steel valve covers, you should be all right. I ended up running the ground wire directly to the frame, and I ended up with a nice fat spark again.
Before you go out and spend the bucks for a new module, get out your multi-meter, and test the unit. The test procedure can be found on Mallory's web site, and is relatively easy to perform.
Good luck!
I've looked for a new ignition kit for my 1969 l-46 SB, but I'm a bit confused by all the alternatives. Mallory have the Comp S/S42, Comp S/S32, the Unilite and the 75-series. All have tach-drive. Which one do I choose? I'm looking for smooth ride, tuneable and dependable. Not hi-rev racing.
Voltage spikes are a bad thing for many electronic components, however some are more vulnerable than others. A steady voltage can have a lot of benefits, especially for ignition systems (not only reliability but also in functioning)
I installed the uni-lite module in my 68 Z28 back in 1973. Still going strong today. I have also used Pertronix in other vehicles, with no problems so far. Cheers.
Tommy
My experience is similar. In the mid 70's I had one failure maybe a year after I installed it on my 70 Z28 & Mallory backed it up by sending me a new module at no cost. It's been perfect ever since.
I have had the same one on all my big blocks-same module with the new motor.I think they work excellent-must have a ballast resistor.I think i have had this distributor for at least 15 yrs.[IMG][/IMG]Mine is a unilite comp 9000
I used a UniLite in my '70 LS5 for years with no problems. I used the stock resistance wire and coil for the hook up. Never had a problem with it. Installed it then forgot it was there.
I just put a unilite in my dads '66 cadillac and I can't get it to start. the top half of distributor is the same as most gm one of the time because the shaft is shorter I can't use an hei one and is it normal for the shutter gap to pass 2 to 5 degrees after rotor passes the contact in the cap. the plugs fires and the unilite test good. the distributor turns clock wise.
Has anyone here tried a Mallory Uni-lite in place of points/condensers? I did this for reliability, performance, and wanted to keep the original look of the ignition setup.
Definition of Reliability:
The probability specified that a device will perform its objective adequately, for the period of time, under the operating conditions specified.
Nope, Mallory units are not reliable. Points and condensers are.
Performance:
Nope again. These conversion POS cannot by design improve engine performance. The coil creates the spark, not the on/off switch.
From: Where are the Smoky Mountain Cruisers? Not Correctly Restored Stingray
I installed a Mallory Uni-lite distributor, mechanical advance with tach cable 5 years ago and have not had any problems. I installed a large ballast resistor too.
I have put it off a couple of days because I know I put the distributor together right and time it about right so the distributor should not have been far off and I was seeing spark and it was running before so?????? but come back to and want to find some thing else wrong and for some odd reason it stop pumping gas and it has gas in the tank, this is odd because it has a new fuel pump I put on 3 months ago and it chose now to go out weird and it is not electric