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Typically dont brand new engines run a bit hotter, not been broken in. I've seen ceramic headers advertise not for use on new engines. I assumed the reasoning was that the engine would be hotter based on the parts still working out their friction issues.
Advance the timing. Mine did the same thing scared the hell out of me. I had it set at 8 degrees, but with my engine setup it wanted more so I did it the Lars way and set to 36 degrees at about 3K RPM and didn't worry about the initial timing. I think it ended up at 16.
Typically dont brand new engines run a bit hotter, not been broken in. I've seen ceramic headers advertise not for use on new engines. I assumed the reasoning was that the engine would be hotter based on the parts still working out their friction issues.
A new engine will be a bit warmer, but not excessively so. The reason the ceramic coating guys don't want you to use their coated headers on a new engine is becasue there are so many variables- timing, mixture, water level, and valve adjustment all can play a part in how hot the exhaust gets. And too hot will cook the coating and it may peel or flake off. They just don't want a bunch of warranty claims on the coating that are casued by stuff beyond their control. Kind of a CYA thing..
I changed pistons last winter and put Jet-Hot coated headers on at the same time. I suppose the biggest difference was that I KNEW, no question that the mixture was correct, the valves were adjusted properly, and I wasn't breaking in a new cam. All I did was go from 10.2 compression to 12.5. Put a little more bite in the bark, so to speak.
I'm hoping the 20-25 mins we ran it the first time and the 20-25 mins we ran it the second time will do it. How can you tell if the cam is bad?
Don't worry about the Cam. I think alot of people still remember the plauge of small block Chevy cam shafts that wore out prematurely in the Seventies and Eighties. The 20 to 25 minutes on the first run should have been sufficent. But someone did post a good point, and that would be the valve adjustment.
Don't worry about the Cam. I think alot of people still remember the plauge of small block Chevy cam shafts that wore out prematurely in the Seventies and Eighties. The 20 to 25 minutes on the first run should have been sufficent. But someone did post a good point, and that would be the valve adjustment.
Sorry to pull you up on this, but the running in is more critical now than ever. It is important that you are able to run the engine at 2000 rpm or better for at least 20-25mins uninterupted. Besides the lubricating oil not having enough ZDDP additive to protect the lifters from scuffing, there are quality issues with cam blank materials and lifter manufacture.
Choose your components wisely, I myself have decided that I have built my last modified engine with a flat tappet cam, I will be going to roller cams in future, no matter what. Ok if it's a restoration with stock cam's and valve train, but I have seen too many failures to have any confidence left to use any flat tappet cams from any of the cam grinders. A 350 that I fitted a Lunati Voodoo flat tappet hydraulic cam to recently which has only about 1500 miles on it, looks as though the cam has 150,000 miles on it so something is not right with the materials and the lubrication.
I build on average 5 engines per year, so I need to have quality assured so this is why I am going roller only.
I'm hoping the 20-25 mins we ran it the first time and the 20-25 mins we ran it the second time will do it. How can you tell if the cam is bad?
You should be ok.
I like to run mine 25 to 30 mins. at 2500 rpm's. If you didn't break it in properly it would show up in the running condition.
A oil change should follow break in.