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What is the biggest size pipe,that will fit through the crossmember holes.I want to run 3 inch but it looks close.Has any one done it on here,i no 2.5 would fit but thats to small for my setup.I dont want to run it underneath crossmember either.Im thinking the borla xr1 round.
I have 3" on my 78 and it clears thru the holes fine (been on for two years now). My only regret is the 3" replaced a 2.5" and the 2.5" gave me more low end torque.
I have 3" on my 78 and it clears thru the holes fine (been on for two years now). My only regret is the 3" replaced a 2.5" and the 2.5" gave me more low end torque.
Thank's for the reply i just wanted to no if it would fit thru their.I have over 730hp and 680ft lbs of torque-so i think i need 3 inch at least.Does it hit the inside holes at all- what size are the holes,anyone no.
Thank's for the reply i just wanted to no if it would fit thru their.I have over 730hp and 680ft lbs of torque-so i think i need 3 inch at least.Does it hit the inside holes at all- what size are the holes,anyone no.
trannies don't like heat.
routing through the holes complicates the initial pipe job
pipes through the cross member complicate R&R of the tranny and with 700 hp you are going to be working on stuff quite often.
At over 700 hp I would look into 4 inch oval or three inch with an X or an H cross pipe.
So why dork around and use the existing holes when you can mod your cross member?
Oh, yah......... I forgot to add that I lost so much TQ with my 3 inch system that I have a hard time getting my 12 road race rear tires to spin in 4th gear when my tires are hot and sticky!
I like the crossmember idea.care to elaborate on the dimensions of the cut and weld.Did you eye it or measure to a specific point mark and cut-what about the insert.Thank's that looks like the best idea,i dont run my exhaust all the way out the rear anyway-just in front of the rear diff i end it.
I like the crossmember idea.care to elaborate on the dimensions of the cut and weld.Did you eye it or measure to a specific point mark and cut-what about the insert.Thank's that looks like the best idea,i dont run my exhaust all the way out the rear anyway-just in front of the rear diff i end it.
That 7 inch pipe I used was just scrap. 6 inch would be fine. I just band sawed it to slightly wider than the cross member for a welding surface. It doesn't have to be 3/4 of the way through the cross member like I made it. My floor pan is lower than the pipe cut out.
I just eyeballed it straight back from the header collector.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Bigger isn't always better. Pipes need to be sized to the engine application for optimum performance. Inadequate backpressure can be detrimental.
C'mon, haven't we had enough correction posts on this very item? Backpressure is NEVER good. It causes the piston/crank to work harder to discharge the burned gasses (not a good thing if someone is interested in making horsepower), and backpressure also causes an increase in residual EGR, which reduces the combustion temperature, resulting in less cylinder pressure and less horsepower. Can we finally get rid of this "need backpressure" myth?
C'mon, haven't we had enough correction posts on this very item? Backpressure is NEVER good. It causes the piston/crank to work harder to discharge the burned gasses (not a good thing if someone is interested in making horsepower), and backpressure also causes an increase in residual EGR, which reduces the combustion temperature, resulting in less cylinder pressure and less horsepower. Can we finally get rid of this "need backpressure" myth?
Merge collectors are the best. Open headers with collector extensions of some length make the most power possible.