73 radiator leak
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,050
Likes: 205
From: Lewes Delaware
73 radiator leak
My L82 (4 speed with AC) radiator (original) has been leaking at the ends for the last two years. Started out as a few drops, but after driving it the other day a 12" puddle was under one of the ends. Time to do something.
Any tips/suggestions on removal (by me), replacement or repair?
Any tips/suggestions on removal (by me), replacement or repair?
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Seriously, this was one of the best things I ever bought and installed in my car. Seriously...consider...this...option...
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=278
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=278
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
It wouldn't take much effort to pull the radiator and let a local shop look at it and see what is wrong with it. If they say you need a new radiator, I'm with Matt on this one, get a DeWitt's radiator.
To remove the radiator, just unbolt the top brackets, tape cardboard onto the front and back of it, to prevent further damage to the radiator. Undo the radiator hoses and lift it up. You don't even have to take the hood off or the fan shroud.
Tom makes great replacements if you want to keep the stock look. A bit on the expensive side, but well worth it, in my opinion. I have a radiator and dual fan setup from him. For the stock look, with better results than stock. http://www.dewitts.com/pages/categor...ts.asp?catID=1
To remove the radiator, just unbolt the top brackets, tape cardboard onto the front and back of it, to prevent further damage to the radiator. Undo the radiator hoses and lift it up. You don't even have to take the hood off or the fan shroud.
Tom makes great replacements if you want to keep the stock look. A bit on the expensive side, but well worth it, in my opinion. I have a radiator and dual fan setup from him. For the stock look, with better results than stock. http://www.dewitts.com/pages/categor...ts.asp?catID=1
Last edited by 74Blackfoot; May 28, 2008 at 11:19 PM. Reason: Saw your profile.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,685
Likes: 202
From: Waterford Mi
It is a real pain to pull. I have always taken the hood off to give me more room. You need to remove the fan, fan shroud bolts, and take the top hose off. If it has an auto trans, take off the cooling lines. Then take out the rad support bolts on the side, (inside of wheel wells), the pull the rad support as far foward as you can and still the shroud will be a bear to get out. Once the shroud is out you can get the the bottom hose.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville FL
if they say you need a new radiator, ask about getting it recored. that is still much less expensive than a new radiator and is basically like new.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 911
Likes: 5
From: TN
radiator removal
Being the orignal owner of my 70 with factory air with the big radiator I have removed the radiator a few times to have leaks repaired and still have the original radiator.
I have never removed the hood to remove/replace the radiator. I did not even remove the hood to remove the original engine and install a ZZ crate engine, just was not necessary.
Anyway when I remove my big radiator I put a floor jack under the control arm on the passenger side and raise enough to remove the that tire. With no weight on the upper control arm now, remove the control arm retaining nuts, remove alignment shims (tape together and mark to reinstall in removed location). I knock out the rear serrated control arm bolt to make it easier to move the control arm back towards the wheelwell. This allows removal of the big fan shroud, fan and thermostatic clutch assembly is also removed first. With the shroud out of the way the radiator removal/installation for me is only a one man job.
It may sound like a lot of work with the upper control arm, but I cannot remove and install a hood by myself. Also do not have to make any later hood alignment adjustments to get it just right.
I have never removed the hood to remove/replace the radiator. I did not even remove the hood to remove the original engine and install a ZZ crate engine, just was not necessary.
Anyway when I remove my big radiator I put a floor jack under the control arm on the passenger side and raise enough to remove the that tire. With no weight on the upper control arm now, remove the control arm retaining nuts, remove alignment shims (tape together and mark to reinstall in removed location). I knock out the rear serrated control arm bolt to make it easier to move the control arm back towards the wheelwell. This allows removal of the big fan shroud, fan and thermostatic clutch assembly is also removed first. With the shroud out of the way the radiator removal/installation for me is only a one man job.
It may sound like a lot of work with the upper control arm, but I cannot remove and install a hood by myself. Also do not have to make any later hood alignment adjustments to get it just right.
