unable to remove T/A
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 315
Likes: 0
unable to remove T/A
Well I know this topic has been chatted alot before,But I need to find a solution.I removed the other shims on both sides which where easy enough after I loosened the nuts, But I can't get the shims to even move a little on the inside of the trailing arms.They are frozen solid.Last night I tried to cut through them with a sawzall and I see my patience running out,might need alot of hours and many blades just to cut one side.I can't get the bolt to move either
.
So what are my best options at this point.I'm only on jack stands in my garage and don't have any air tools,which makes it more difficult......
80_vette
.So what are my best options at this point.I'm only on jack stands in my garage and don't have any air tools,which makes it more difficult......
80_vette
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 315
Likes: 0
On one side I did cut the bolt, and I tried to use a pry bar and swing it over a bit with no luck...But I haven't tried a chisel though.Might be my next step.
I knew they were frozen solid but never thought this bad.....Also,Room is very limited there,damn
I knew they were frozen solid but never thought this bad.....Also,Room is very limited there,damn
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
You should be able to grab the back end of the trailing arm where the spring attached and pull it to the outside of the car.Just be careful you dont pull the car off the stands.If you have a 2x4 you can cut,put it in place of the half shaft only longer forcing the T arm out.Then use the chisel between the shims.Use lots of PB blaster or the same and the rust between the shims should give up and the shims will come out.Give it some time.
edit-working the arm up down and around helps loosen it also
edit-working the arm up down and around helps loosen it also
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: White Plains MD
Just did this on my 76. I put the chissel at the shim's mid edge (about 1/8 from the corner) and hammered upward (very hard). The shims rotated upward then I did the opposite and hammerd them down (not all the way). Once the shims got a bit loose I was able to use a pry bar to move them up and down. I did this quite a few times and the shims came out. You might be able to use and old flat screw driver from the slit opening above the TA bolt to help you move the shims out. I had plenty of room for the sawsall blades then. I also used plenty of PB Blaster.
Once the job was done it was beer time
Once the job was done it was beer time
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 315
Likes: 0
Well I've been at it for 2 hours now and all I tried was unsuccessful....Them son've b*tch are solid in there..
My next solution would be using acetylene...Any danger I should know about using acetylene torch in the T/A pockets?
My next solution would be using acetylene...Any danger I should know about using acetylene torch in the T/A pockets?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,844
Likes: 99
From: Orrtanna Pa.
I did not have access to a torch, or air tools, but was able to cut through the bolt with a hacksaw blade wrapped in a shop rag. Took a few beers, but job was done. I would strongly recommend repacements are stainless.(shims and bolts) for future alignments will be way easier.
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Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
On the right side the fuel lines are on the othe side of the frame.On the drivers side I believe the fuel vapor line is there.You can also set the fiberglass behind the seat on fire.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
I just did mine about a week or 2 ago.... and I had that same issue. I thought about useing the tourches but the gas lines where right there ( i did the passenger side) I ended up useing about 4 blades on a borrowed sawzall... It took me 2 days just to cut the inside free, becuase i had to go through the shims. It seems like your not getting any where just get some good blades and keep cutting.... you will make it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,008
Likes: 38
From: Space Coast Gator Territory
[QUOTE=livelotus;1565703846]Just did this on my 76. I put the chissel at the shim's mid edge (about 1/8 from the corner) and hammered upward (very hard). The shims rotated upward then I did the opposite and hammerd them down (not all the way). Once the shims got a bit loose I was able to use a pry bar to move them up and down. I did this quite a few times and the shims came out. You might be able to use and old flat screw driver from the slit opening above the TA bolt to help you move the shims out. I had plenty of room for the sawsall blades then. I also used plenty of PB Blaster. QUOTE]
All good suggestions using a chizel for getting the shims out. In addition, I used a 3 pound slide hammer with a hook through the holes in the shims. Pre soak the shims with a good penetrating oil where it is seized. Plain tap water will work just as well. After it has soaked, let the slide hammer pull them free. This did the job removing my stubborn shims. After they are out, the sazall with finish the job.
All good suggestions using a chizel for getting the shims out. In addition, I used a 3 pound slide hammer with a hook through the holes in the shims. Pre soak the shims with a good penetrating oil where it is seized. Plain tap water will work just as well. After it has soaked, let the slide hammer pull them free. This did the job removing my stubborn shims. After they are out, the sazall with finish the job.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 315
Likes: 0
I should of known that the other side was not gonna be any easier..After another 3 bi-metal blades,she came out
That was the biggest job to do,taking 'em out..
Now I'm sitting here having another beer and I'm enjoying it
Thanks to all that helped with their suggestions,it was really appreciated.
80_vette
That was the biggest job to do,taking 'em out..
Now I'm sitting here having another beer and I'm enjoying it
Thanks to all that helped with their suggestions,it was really appreciated.
80_vette
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,016
Likes: 31
From: Little Egg Harbor N.J.
How do you know that your TA's need to be redone? I bought a '69 coupe about a year and a half ago and want to make sure I have a reliable car before I participate in any long distance events.
This job sounds like a real PITA but, seems like a necessary one. I just don't want to do it right away unless I have to; want to use my money where it's needed the most.
BTW, congratulations on finally getting your trailing arms out.
This job sounds like a real PITA but, seems like a necessary one. I just don't want to do it right away unless I have to; want to use my money where it's needed the most.
BTW, congratulations on finally getting your trailing arms out.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,008
Likes: 38
From: Space Coast Gator Territory
