1970 - Ebrake Catch 22
#1
Instructor
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1970 - Ebrake Catch 22
hi all - my right ebrake cable is frozen in the rear Cable Assembly (UPC5C2 - 2) - unfortunately, it is stuck with the rear ebrake engaged - I have disconnected the equalizer plate and spring (UPC5C1 - 6, -5) so there is slack on that side of the rear cable assembly - but pull as i might on the cable (without wanting to put a bend in it), nothing comes through on the caliper side of the cable assembly - in order to get the ball end of the cable, I need the ebrake not only fully disengaged, but additional slack - I have neither - to get the cable assembly out of the cable guide, which would provide the necessary slack to disconnect the ebrake, i need the ball out of the ebrake - CATCH 22 - in thinking about a way out, would pulling the rotor allow additional access to the ebrak and allow me to disconnect it without the necessary slack? - how do you remove the rotor, once you have unbolted it on the inboard side (bolt revealed once you pull the half shaft out)? - can this even be done with ebrake engaged? - as for unfreezing the cable, I have sprayed a bunch of Kroil down the cable assembly - not too much penetrates, most just spills out - any thoughts welcomed - thanks! ED
#2
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I'm not sure if yours is the same as on my 79, however on my car when the right back e-brake locked up inside the rotor, I just took the wheel off and then pried the rotor off with a big screwdriver. I was then able to disassemble the e-brake.
#3
Melting Slicks
You need to replace the ebrake cable anyway.
Why not just cut it where it is visible at the trailing arm.
Then remove the ebrake cable from the car.
No point in trying to force it to work. You'll spend more time trying to make it functional than you'll ever spend replacing it.
For the ebrakes themselves; once you've cut the cable you may find the ebrakes still will not retract. You can simply drive the lever (where the ebrake cable ball is attached) back using a large drift an hammer.
Just a few knocks should do it.
Why not just cut it where it is visible at the trailing arm.
Then remove the ebrake cable from the car.
No point in trying to force it to work. You'll spend more time trying to make it functional than you'll ever spend replacing it.
For the ebrakes themselves; once you've cut the cable you may find the ebrakes still will not retract. You can simply drive the lever (where the ebrake cable ball is attached) back using a large drift an hammer.
Just a few knocks should do it.
#5
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Member Since: Jul 2004
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I agree that just cutting the thing off; i.e. cutting through the cable outer steel shield and then cutting the cable inside, should loosen it up. For something like this I would use my air powered die grinder with an abrasive cut-off wheel.
Next call In-Line tube and order one of their stainless steel ebrake cable assemblies. It appears to be an exact duplicate of the original factory steel cable assembly. (I'm not sure, but they may also sell the duplicate in steel if perhaps your concerned about NCRS judging points.)
Next call In-Line tube and order one of their stainless steel ebrake cable assemblies. It appears to be an exact duplicate of the original factory steel cable assembly. (I'm not sure, but they may also sell the duplicate in steel if perhaps your concerned about NCRS judging points.)
#7
Safety Car
If you have access to a very large pulley puller you can remove a stuck rotor that way. About an 11 or 12 inch puller should do it.
No need to remove any bolts from the back or the half shaft.
If your rotors have never been off before you will need to drill out then drive out the rivets that hold it on.
cc
No need to remove any bolts from the back or the half shaft.
If your rotors have never been off before you will need to drill out then drive out the rivets that hold it on.
cc