harper82vette

I'm thinking this might be a fairly cheap design I can do myself.. Could someone read this and tell me if they think it will work or a waste of time and money.. Anyone done this and happy or still hot?
This winter I think I might tackle the hot floor problem from my exhaust headers and side pipes. I have a recommendation from a friend tell me what you think:
Build and form a steel barrier to mount between the exhaust manifolds and the fiberglass then put reflectix down under the interior carpet... Any input would be greatly appreciated. I read some threads on options and am debating if a reflectix type product should be installed under the carpet or under the fiberglass (exterior application)...?

vettfixr

I posted this in another thread.

harper82vette

Couldn't open the link, but I read some threads like what you mentioned over the last couple days.. Just this morning disconnected the vacuum from that actuator (passenger side interior kick panel air door)... I shoved some drywall insulation in it and duct taped it shut then put the dick panel cover back on, should eliminate that problem, I hope.... Is this what you were referring to??

harper82vette

What are your thoughts on my orignal post? heat barrier/reflectix issue?

vettfixr

I've gone the insulation route and while it made the car quieter it didn't do much for the heat problem. My insulation install:

http://home.comcast.net/~vettfixr/page14.htm

The other link I gave you is in the C3 tech tips. To reach it go to the top of this page and click Other, Tech Tips, C3 and then Eliminating Cockpit Heat in a C3.

Red 69

I have read numerous threads on under carpet insulation to reduce interior temps. After experiencing vapor lock in bumper to bumper traffic, I wrapped my headers with Thermo Tec pipe wrap.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Thermo+Tec/760007/10002/-1/10261
I wrapped my dual exhaust back to the mufflers and got a significant reduction of interior temps, and I never had vapor lock again. My pipes were in very good condition, so I painted them with a high heat silicone spray first, then wrapped them. I bought s/s tie wraps from Harbor freight at $5 per pack of 25. You might consider this as an option to reducing interior temps.

a1sensei

Wrap will reduce heat, but will also rot your headers. Reflectix will reflect radiant heat but can conduct direct heat, so the more effective place for the reflectix would be on the outside of the fiberglass, with an air space between it and the heat source. The only problem with this is possible durability problems with the reflectix exposed to that environment. God bless, Sensei

kevinator80

Why would your dick panel be a problem?

BSeery

if you leave it open you get all sorts of problems.

"Flys can transmit all sorts of diseases. To be safe, keep yours closed."

Red 69

I heard this before, but went ahead and wrapped mine anyway. My vapor lock problem required me to wait for the car to cool down before it could be started again. This was unacceptable and reflectix wouldn't have helped.

It has now been 18 months since I have my exhaust pipes wrapped and I don't see any sign of rust....none. This may be because I painted the pipes with high heat paint first. I then painted over the wrap with high heat silver silicone paint, as recommended by Thermo Tec. I have driven through heavy rain several times and noticed the silicone paint sheds water like off a duck's back. Even my mufflers remain a clean looking silver color. The pipes may have rusted on someone's pipes who didn't paint them first, but I don't have that problem and will wrap pipes again as needed. The fear of wrapped pipes rusting has been disproved by me, as long as manufacture directions are followed in the application.

The result of my exhaust wrap was cooler interior temps and eliminated my vapor lock problem. This is a picture of the wrap before I top coated them with high heat silver silicone paint. It was sprayed into the cap and brushed on, so there was no mess.
[IMG][/IMG]

harper82vette

sorry i meant kick panel not *ick panel... ha ha, the kick panel is all set, the other panel I can't even get to my wife keeps all that hardware in her purse

lr172

I am thinking of doing this when I take off my headers to re-do my exhaust. Did you use the 1" or 2" version of their wrap? How many feet did it take to do both headers?

Red 69

I think I used about four and a half rolls of two inch wrap to do the headers and exhaust back to the mufflers. Each header took one roll of two inch. I did mine while they were on the car, but much easier when they are off.

One tip, as you wrap around bends the material will bulge and buckle. If you ever took a first aid class and remember how to apply a roller bandage; you twist, or roll the material 180 degrees away from the bulge in the material. This will keep the material flat against the tube surface as you apply it around a bend.

vett us all

Beware Of Heddman (ceramic) Coated Headers. They Peel, Flake, And Rust In Less Than 1500 Miles Of Use. The Coating Is A Joke --- That Is'nt Funny.

VCuomo

Ask me how I (unfortunately) know...

wombvette

The cheapest under body heat fix is a thick piece of foam between the transmission and the tunnel. Some cars had this piece from the factory. But, I go to the hardware store and get a thick piece of foam to block the air going down the tunnel. It helps and is a very cheap fix.

AimHigh

Check out this view from another post on the forum this morning
(sorry but my cut and paste skills aren't too good today)

http://willcoxcorvette.com/instructi...ft_console.pdf

Ak. Mal

I used wrap on the headers back to the collector. I fabbed up a set of heat shields that are clamped to the exhaust pipes under the floorboards. I already had Reflectix installed before these two additions.