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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 09:27 AM
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Default Muncie install help

Anybody have any tips, tricks, or other general advice for a one man, engine in, muncie install? It seems that with the tail above the crossmember and back as far as it can go, there still isn't enough room for the input shaft to clear the bell..I was thinking about lifting the bell and tranny at the same time, just ran out of hands.. (my usual wrenching partner is away for a few days)..Any one man wonders do this??
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 09:42 AM
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I can't offer any pointers because its been so long ( 1997 or so), but I can tell you that I WAS able to change the muncie with the bellhousing still bolted to the motor, alone in my 68.

It wasn't easy, and I did have the car pretty high up, but it can be done. Good luck!
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by OldSchool
Anybody have any tips, tricks, or other general advice for a one man, engine in, muncie install? It seems that with the tail above the crossmember and back as far as it can go, there still isn't enough room for the input shaft to clear the bell..I was thinking about lifting the bell and tranny at the same time, just ran out of hands.. (my usual wrenching partner is away for a few days)..Any one man wonders do this??
It should go in fine, I've done my 75 several times with X member in place.

Make sure the shifter and bracket have been removed, push the tail shaft up over the x member as you've done but with the input shaft down and to the right (passenger side). Then rotate the transmission so the transmission side plate is in the up position. Then you should be able to push the tailshaft up more on the x-member and get the input shaft past the bell housing and in place. It's close but it does go.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by TopGunn
It should go in fine, I've done my 75 several times with X member in place.

Make sure the shifter and bracket have been removed, push the tail shaft up over the x member as you've done but with the input shaft down and to the right (passenger side). Then rotate the transmission so the transmission side plate is in the up position. Then you should be able to push the tailshaft up more on the x-member and get the input shaft past the bell housing and in place. It's close but it does go.


Also, you may have to raise the back of the motor an inch or two, that will give you additional clearance
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by TopGunn
It should go in fine, I've done my 75 several times with X member in place.

Make sure the shifter and bracket have been removed, push the tail shaft up over the x member as you've done but with the input shaft down and to the right (passenger side). Then rotate the transmission so the transmission side plate is in the up position. Then you should be able to push the tailshaft up more on the x-member and get the input shaft past the bell housing and in place. It's close but it does go.
It's close as stated above and if you roll the input shaft in from the lower right corner of the bell housing it will squeak by. Good luck and be careful handling the Muncie by yourself, you don't want to get hurt. .
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by OldSchool
Anybody have any tips, tricks, or other general advice for a one man, engine in, muncie install? It seems that with the tail above the crossmember and back as far as it can go, there still isn't enough room for the input shaft to clear the bell..I was thinking about lifting the bell and tranny at the same time, just ran out of hands.. (my usual wrenching partner is away for a few days)..Any one man wonders do this??

While I agree with the others that the "rubrics cube manipulation" can work; I've found it easier to wedge the tranny on the crossmember then cup/slip the bell housing in between the input shaft and back of the motor. You'll have to pull the tranny input shaft down into the bell housing hole momentarily when the two parts meet, then push them up together as a set wedging the tranny back on the crossmember while you bolt up the bell housing. Extra pair of hands helps but I've always been able to go it alone.
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 12:14 PM
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I put my BW (aluminum) in alone with the help of a floor jack .

However, my cross member is removable.

but, I've done these before (non Corvette) with a floor jack holding the weight while I pushed the trans around
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 06:32 PM
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I seem to remember it being a very "PITA" job doing clutches on the different C-2's and C-3's that I've owned but entirely do-able alone. First thing I did was to remove the dist. cap and make sure the fan blade cleared the fan shroud allowing the rear of the motor (supported by a bottle type jack) to go down far enough with the bellhousing or scattershield attached to wiggle the snout of the transmission input to clear and put it in the hole. It takes a fair amount of cussing and manipulating the jack height but it is do-able. Good luck, just make sure there are no kids present or else they will get a whole new vocabulary. Peace,,,Moosie
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Old Jun 12, 2008 | 08:55 PM
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I just changed the clutch in my 68. As the others said , it is close but it clears. I also removed the distributer cap and supported the back of the engine with a bottle jack, then remove the shifter and all transmission brackets and trans mount. Remove the four main trans bolts and pull the trans back and shove the tail up over the crossmember as far as it will go. Drop the jack under the bell housing and the input shaft at the same time and the trans will drop right out. It took about an hour all total.
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 06:07 AM
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I pulled my muncie this way by myself it work just takes alittle fussing
Originally Posted by bj1k
I just changed the clutch in my 68. As the others said , it is close but it clears. I also removed the distributer cap and supported the back of the engine with a bottle jack, then remove the shifter and all transmission brackets and trans mount. Remove the four main trans bolts and pull the trans back and shove the tail up over the crossmember as far as it will go. Drop the jack under the bell housing and the input shaft at the same time and the trans will drop right out. It took about an hour all total.
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by bj1k
I just changed the clutch in my 68. As the others said , it is close but it clears. I also removed the distributer cap and supported the back of the engine with a bottle jack, then remove the shifter and all transmission brackets and trans mount. Remove the four main trans bolts and pull the trans back and shove the tail up over the crossmember as far as it will go. Drop the jack under the bell housing and the input shaft at the same time and the trans will drop right out. It took about an hour all total.
I agree with most above -it will come out but lowering the rear of the engine really helps.Top Gun said rotate the side cover up-I'm pretty sure I rotate it down plus I remove the tailshaft yoke.Just dont lower the tail because the grease will run out.
I would like to add for the reinstall.Test fit the tranny in the back of the bellhousing without the clutch assembly installed to make sure your alignment is good and the input shaft is releasing from the pilot bushing.
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by DWncchs
I agree with most above -it will come out but lowering the rear of the engine really helps.
if you lower the motor then you bring the tail shaft housing closer to the crossmember, thus decreasing the clearance, course you don't have to raise the motor so high that the tailshaft will hit bottom of the tunnel
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by GDaina
if you lower the motor then you bring the tail shaft housing closer to the crossmember, thus decreasing the clearance, course you don't have to raise the motor so high that the tailshaft will hit bottom of the tunnel
We might be talking about 2 different things.I'm talking about once you have seperated the trans from the bellhousing.You have the trans shoved back above the crossmember and your trying to get the input shaft to clear the bellhousing and drop down.When you lower the rear of the engine the distance between the lower face of the bellhousing from the crossmember increases slightly and the input shaft will drop below the bellhousing and out.I hope I expained that right.
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by DWncchs
We might be talking about 2 different things.I'm talking about once you have seperated the trans from the bellhousing.You have the trans shoved back above the crossmember and your trying to get the input shaft to clear the bellhousing and drop down.When you lower the rear of the engine the distance between the lower face of the bellhousing from the crossmember increases slightly and the input shaft will drop below the bellhousing and out.I hope I expained that right.
You did, and that takes another person...I've never encountered any problems R & R my tranny...one person job..I raised the rear of the motor enough to remove the rear tranny mount...pushed the trans back and the input shaft cleared the bellhousing...I also removed the shifter bracket and the shifter...
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 07:14 PM
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How I did it last week. Removed shifter,trans mount,& output yoke.
Unbolted Trans from bell housing. Slid trans aft and rotated counterclockwise(even though manual states rotate Clockwise)
Dropped input of the trans down and to the left and dropped trans to the ground.
Didn't use a floor jack, just flat on my back.
For installation I reversed the proceedure. I have 3 4" bolts with the heads cut off that i put into the trans mount holes. That way when I go to stab the trans I can let it hang on those bolts. Have assistant push in the clutch pedal and the trans will mate right up to the belhousing with minimal fight
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Old Jun 13, 2008 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by pmullaly
Didn't use a floor jack, just flat on my back.
Yup how I did it...
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Old Jun 15, 2008 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by DWncchs
We might be talking about 2 different things.I'm talking about once you have seperated the trans from the bellhousing.You have the trans shoved back above the crossmember and your trying to get the input shaft to clear the bellhousing and drop down.When you lower the rear of the engine the distance between the lower face of the bellhousing from the crossmember increases slightly and the input shaft will drop below the bellhousing and out.I hope I expained that right.
Thats exactly it. It will drop right out. Going back in is just reverse.
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