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So my cars alignment was messed up and I had it fixed. I took it out a couple times and I was looking at it today and it is messed up again. I can't imagine that doing a burnout would do this to the alignment.
If it did mine would be way out. I have done countless burnouts and hard driving and the alignment is right on. What is out on the alignment, front or rear?
If it did mine would be way out. I have done countless burnouts and hard driving and the alignment is right on. What is out on the alignment, front or rear?
If the spindles coming out of the diff have too much end play you'll play "heck" setting camber. You may want to make sure everything is "tight", some shops just "do" the alignment which won't hold since the parts are loose/worn.
I never did care for the cam system. I went to reg adj. struts and have never had a problem.
Hey Justin, at least you know all the parts are new. and I'm sure the T arms were done right if you did them yourself!!
I remember what a great job you did on your rear end...You are more **** than me!!!!
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Those eccentric adjuster cams are an antiquated and obsolete mechanism, and likely the cause for so many Bubbafied strut rods that have been bent all out of shape in an attempt to counter their inability to hold a setting. Heim-jointed rods with lock plates (save the poly for the control arms) are the way to go of you really want to eliminate the problem, and will maintain accurate camber geometry under cornering and launch loads; something rubber bushings (here or on the control arms) simply cannot do.
Everything is cleaned up original parts. When I was in they wanted a boat load of money to do the toe so I had them leave it until I pull the trailing arms and rebuild them. I guess it is time to get rods with heim joints and possibly new t/a's. Where can I pick up a set of those camber rods with heim joints?
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Got my struts from Guldstrand, but they're available thru other sources if you want to shop around. Also, some here have fabbed up their own sets. NMB rod ends are the best, and you don't want ends w/grease fittings.
Got my struts from Guldstrand, but they're available thru other sources if you want to shop around. Also, some here have fabbed up their own sets. NMB rod ends are the best, and you don't want ends w/grease fittings.
I see VBP has #42211= $189.99 for the street looks like they have grease fittings,
then they have the HD racing setup # 42213= $249.99 racing grade sperical ends
don't see any grease fittings on the #42213. C/C has a set of poly bushings for the stock arms that would at least get rid of the factory rubber $29.95 probably the finest chinese stuff money can buy.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Jun 13, 2008 at 04:50 PM.
Justin it won't take long with a bunch of negative camber to where out ruin the inside edge of your tires. The $250.00 super duty sperical end racing struts would give you zero flex if you push your car hard in the corners over the factory rubber. but if your mostly a strait line person you could argu there over kill. pull your strut rods out look them over if there not bent you may just want to use poly bushings. I'm guessing over the yrs the rubber bushings are both worn and rotted out.
Last edited by Little Mouse; Jun 13, 2008 at 08:45 PM.
I have to say it one more time. All the super-duper $$$ strut rods won't fix loose diff yokes. Before you invest you'd be wise to at least check out the rest of the setup and make sure it's the struts that are causing the problem.