Well, Next weekend I am going to be installing a new set of cylinder heads and this will be the first time I have done this. I have a Chiltons manual and have read it over and over to make sure I am ready but I will really like to read some articles on cylinder head installs too.

Does anyone have a favorite article up on the web that goes step by step through the install process. I know there are tons of methods for setting valve lash and stuff like that so I just wanna make sure I know everything I could do when the times comes.

Thanks,
John

 

Instructions by 427 Hotrod

First you have to roll the motor around to set each valve right? The cam has to be on the base circle. Easiest way for me is to set them as follows:

1) When the exhaust on a cylinder is just starting to OPEN...set the intake valve on that cylinder.
2) When the intake is almost CLOSED..set the exhaust on that cylinder.


So back off all the valves until they are loose and then start bumping motor over watching the valves as above.

Once you get it on correct position to set each valve...you want to reach down and pinch the pushrod between your fingertips right below the rocker arm. Lift it up and down with the nut backed off. You want to slowly tighten the adjuster nut just until that up and down slop just barely disappears. You want to just BARELY take all the slack out of the assy. Don't overtighten...you just barely want that up and down wiggle to be gone. It only takes finger tip action...you will likely still be able to spin the pushrod when you have just barely got it to *O* lash.THAT is *O* lash.....the lifter plunger is up and you have no play in the pushrod/rockerarm/valve. THEN you tighten the 1/4-1/2 turn to put the lifter plunger down in the lifter slightly.

Repeat by bumping the motor around for each valve....it will run then just fine.


Good luck! Instructions by 427 HOTROD

 

Hi John,

I don't have a favorite web page to go to for a head swap, but I will suggest checking out several of the hot rodding magazines tech arcticles for swaps like this.

I will say that its a straight forward swap, and suggest you take your car to the carwash and give the top of the engine a good going over to remove as much grime, grease, and grit as possible. Drain as much of the coolant as possible (use the drain plug thats just above the oil pan rail on each side of the block). Make sure you clean your block to head mating surfaces very well, and when assembling don't forget to seal the head bolts. Finally, don't use the end gaskets for the intake manifold, just use a healthy bead of RTV sealant. Make sure to clean the block and intake surfaces with a brake cleaner to remove any oil and I always leave it overnight to cure.

I hope you have fun!!

 

use new head bolts and a good sealeant, remember to torque at stages to spread load even.

 

My only input in installing the heads is use PERMATEX #2 to seal the threads of the cylinder head bolts and make sure the bolts are clean (I wire brushed the threads then wiped them down with brake cleaner on new ARP bolts)

 

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I think I have ready enough stuff that I am ready to, can't wait to get the new heads on there!

 

Chase every bolt hole & follow ARP's bolt tightening instructions, not Chilton's. If you don't have ARP bolts, then get some.

 

Seems intimidating but really a fairly easy job. I found it good to have a friend help to position the heads correctly while I got the bolts started. I'd also suggest Cometic head gaskets. Expensive, but well worth the cost. Good luck! I'm sure all will go well.

 

I used black rtv for the head bolt sealer and the valley rails used a sealer called the right stuff it works its also gm approved cometic heads gaskets are good also alittle spendy but worth it fel pro also makes MLS gaskets now comtetic is also makeing header gasket now just take your time and youll be fine I set my rockers arms the way GM daid in the shop manual best to get a shop manual from GM then aftyer I got everything going ok and did my break in I cked them the way they do it at the factory with the motor runing back off the adjusting nut antil they rattle then tighten till they stop the 1/2 turn in

 

1) remove old cylinder heads:

a) remove distributor
b) remove intake manifold
c) remove rocker arms, and pull pushrods out
d) remove head bolts
e) if the heads don't come loose easily, use a piece of wood, hold it against the cylinder head and gently whack the wood with a hammer.. It shouldn't take much to get them loose..

2) clean all surfaces. Scrape old gaskets off with a gasket removal tool and clean all surfaces with Brake Parts Cleaner.

3) new heads install
a) Install new head gaskets. If you use FelPro gaskets, you won't need to do any additional work. If you use uncoated copper gaskets, you will have to apply a little coat of RTV around the water passages.. However, I'd recommend the FelPro gaskets for easier install
b) put new heads on top of head gaskets.
c) install head bolts in the correct order (and use black RTV on the threads as others suggested)



Stock torque is 65 ft/lbs but you can go to 75 ft/lbs with ARP bolts

d) re-install push-rods and rocker arms and set lash
e) re-install intake
f) re-install distributor