Planning for trailing arm install, tips
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,619
Likes: 2
From: Perkasie Pa
Planning for trailing arm install, tips
With many noises coming from the rear wheels.... I decided I want my rear wheels to stay on while driving, so I think its time for new trailing arms. So far for this project, I have rebuilt trailing arms, new u-joints, and a new shim kit. My question is, what else should I replace while I'm doing all this? Thanks for your help.
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: Wasilla Alaska
Also a good time to consider new shocks, shock mounts, and possibly the rear springs. New alignment shims. Also consider refreshing the hardware, grade 8 bolts perhaps. Careful with the "while I'm at it's" .. I know I got a little carried away 
Good advice on the brake lines.. close look at my crossover line and I found a nasty dent in it..dang near had it sealed off completely.
Good advice on the brake lines.. close look at my crossover line and I found a nasty dent in it..dang near had it sealed off completely.
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Cheshire CT
I'm in the process of doing the same job and got even more carried away. With the arms out it seemed like a good time to have the differential gone through. Mine is being rebuilt by Gary (gtr1999). Dropped it off to him yesterday. I briefly considered dropping the gas tank to look for the build sheet but felt like that would be too much.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,139
Likes: 0
From: Salina Kansas
Keep track of the shims you remove from each side of the trailing arm AND on each side of the car so you can get an idea of how to place your new shims.
Be prepared to 'sawzall' out the old t-arm bolts, you may have to.
I would thoroughly clean out the frame pockets and use some rust conversion chemical. Check for rust obviously and decide if you need some frame repairs.
Definitely make sure you use stainless steel E-brake pads and hardware.
Make sure your rotors were setup (and marked) with the spindles. Were they?
I used heavy fishing line to thread the new T-arm bolts through the frame.
Be prepared to 'sawzall' out the old t-arm bolts, you may have to.
I would thoroughly clean out the frame pockets and use some rust conversion chemical. Check for rust obviously and decide if you need some frame repairs.
Definitely make sure you use stainless steel E-brake pads and hardware.
Make sure your rotors were setup (and marked) with the spindles. Were they?
I used heavy fishing line to thread the new T-arm bolts through the frame.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,139
Likes: 0
From: Salina Kansas
Also check your differential carrier/cover to make sure it isn't cracked or broken.
Check your front differential bushing under the u-joint on the rear part of the driveshaft (forget the proper name, snub bushing?). These wear out and make a heck of a lot of noise when they do).
I would consider changing your half shaft and driveshaft ujoints. Use greaseless and DON'T USE A VISE. You will dent the sides of the shafts and they will be weakened and possibly out of balance. Don't ask how I know this...
Check your front differential bushing under the u-joint on the rear part of the driveshaft (forget the proper name, snub bushing?). These wear out and make a heck of a lot of noise when they do).
I would consider changing your half shaft and driveshaft ujoints. Use greaseless and DON'T USE A VISE. You will dent the sides of the shafts and they will be weakened and possibly out of balance. Don't ask how I know this...
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Advanced
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Naperville Illinois
Went through the same exercise on my '69 and redid the entire rear suspension. As per other responses, figured once I was in there, why not fix the other items? (That's a real expensive downfall of the way I think about my car...) One nice tip is when you have the new T arms in with the bolts in place lift them up by hand and, slip a 9/16 inch socket (on its side) under each of them them in the frame "pocket". It will hold them up at ride height and will make reinstall of half shafts and other parts much easier. I got a CD from Van Steel that had lots of good tips like that. Good luck.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 66
Likes: 2
From: Covington Georgia
I started with a bad rear wheel bearing. I was going to use a rebuild service that included the wheel assemblies with the trailing arms. I could not get the trailing arm bolt out. A 4 pound sledge did not budge it. I think my car sat too long in the weeds. I considered cutting it off. There does not seem even enough room to get your fingers in there to put the new bolt in. Not an issue it the bolt will not come out.
I abandoned the trailing arms and decided to leave them intact. but while I am tearing it apart I am replacing the spring, struts and shocks and the wheel bearings on both sides.
anyone else have trouble getting the bolts out?
I abandoned the trailing arms and decided to leave them intact. but while I am tearing it apart I am replacing the spring, struts and shocks and the wheel bearings on both sides.
anyone else have trouble getting the bolts out?
Last edited by joepcad; Jun 15, 2008 at 11:02 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,101
Likes: 3
From: Cruising somewhere in St. Louis, Missouri
when you take your shims out make sure you tape them together and mark them so you know which arm it came from "driver or passenger" and was it from the inside or outside of the arm. That way you can replace them same amout with the new shims. It will make for a good starting point for the alignment.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,404
Likes: 1
From: Ansonia/NYC CT
I'm in the same boat too....only I decided.....to just upgrade the entire suspension, front and back...seeing as I'm going to do it at some point anyway, it would be cheaper to do it all at once (ouch). Doing my research now, and leaning towards the 2,500 complete kit at VBP, for the 76.
As for advice.....work either in the shade, or in air conditioning. It's hot out there.
As for advice.....work either in the shade, or in air conditioning. It's hot out there.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
From: Naperville Illinois
I had trouble with my TA bolts also. Loaded them up with liquid wrench over a few days, then got about a 12" length of steel rod just less in diameter than the bolt. Bent the rod slightly so I could angle it past the fender. Took the castle nut and cotter pins off, and using a heavy hammer tapped the bolts through with the rod. Worked on mine.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 2,619
Likes: 2
From: Perkasie Pa
Thanks guys,.. its looking like mid July I will be starting the project in my driveway. I miss my weekly sunday night cruises. Hopefully no other issues arise after this project is completed
yeah right....
yeah right....
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,775
Likes: 4
i started out just wanting to replace some bushings... next thing you know ive got a VBP GT+ kit orderd, the differential down and cracked open, and the TAs stripped down to nothing.
biggest understatement ever.
ive got a ways to go, but its getting there.
get ready,you might have surprises
ive got a ways to go, but its getting there.
