C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 03:46 PM
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Does anyone have any stats/facts about perofrmance and nice cool fuel. I am currently running with a cool can at the track, and I don't doubt that it helps, but I wonder if it could do more. Currently theres about a foot of hose that feeds into the can which passes between the headers and radiator hose, and then another foot from can to carbuerator going over the engine. Was thinking of wrapping this exposed line up to keep it cooler. Was wondering if there was any info out there that would explain if 1 or 2 degrees make any difference.
Thanks
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 02:51 AM
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Hi Arch...

You've pulled great times at the track recently

Not familiar with what you are refering to as a cool can?

1 or 2* change in fuel temp wouldn't make any difference at all.
50~100* change in fuel temp would change the volumetric mass of fuel deliverred to the motor though. The effect performance wise really depends on whether the additional fuel CAN be burnt properly.

Engine bay temps can get very HOT... > 180 *F
Having a return fuel line from the carb certainly helps in circulating excess fuel back to the tank, and that reduces the temp of fuel fed to the carb... also prevents vapour lock after shut down.


More important than cool fuel is cool air intake. Gases (air) expand at a much greater rate than liquids as temp rises. As your motor only sucks a given volume with each induction stroke, the more oxygen available (with cold dense intake air) is what promotes more power. If you provide denser fuel (cold) without increasing available oxygen, all you'll do is have unburnt fuel and less power.

Intercooling is so effective in blown applications for this very reason.
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 07:30 AM
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I think it would do no harm to wrap your fuel lines, also ice your intake down between runs will help.
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 10:02 AM
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I have a 67 L88 stinger molded onto my original hood. It is open at the base of the windshield theoretically allowing me to get cool dense air. I am useing a K&N element which allows me to get air flow through the top. Top of the filter is even with the old hood line.

Just trying to get the most out of this engine without having to spend any more money. Looking for all the little details, sure I missed plenty.
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by ARCH
I have a 67 L88 stinger molded onto my original hood. It is open at the base of the windshield theoretically allowing me to get cool dense air. I am useing a K&N element which allows me to get air flow through the top. Top of the filter is even with the old hood line.

Just trying to get the most out of this engine without having to spend any more money. Looking for all the little details, sure I missed plenty.
Using outside air, a cool can and icing down the intake between runs, I would think you would keep the heat monster at bay.

I also have an L-88 hood but with the original style foam filter, what did you do to change to a K&N?
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 05:37 PM
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The volumetric coefficient of expansion for gasoline is 0.000528/ºF. So, if you cool your gas 60F then the volume would decrease by about 3%. So, if the outside air temp is 60F (gas tank temp) and the under hood temp is 120, or maybe even higher because you've routed it near the exhaust manifold ... the fuel volume to the jet changes 3% or more.

On the other side of the coin, if your selling gas and you've got it in a tank in the ground at 45F, you could make an extra 3% profit by somehow heating it up to 100F and then ... metering it into the consumers vehicle.

Last edited by Tim_Ko; Jun 25, 2008 at 05:39 PM.
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Old Jun 25, 2008 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ARCH
I have a 67 L88 stinger molded onto my original hood. It is open at the base of the windshield theoretically allowing me to get cool dense air. I am useing a K&N element which allows me to get air flow through the top. Top of the filter is even with the old hood line.

Just trying to get the most out of this engine without having to spend any more money. Looking for all the little details, sure I missed plenty.
Arch... If you can seal the air intake so that it ONLY takes air from outside, it will help. The original L88 bonnet had an air box with a rubber seal to isolate the intake air from under bonnet temps.

I think in later C3's there was a rubber seal around the top of the air cleaner base to work with the cowl hoods.

I've seen some pics on the forum here where guys have made their own aluminium or fibreglass "airbox" around the base of the air cleaner to make a seal with the inderside profile of the bonnet...

I gather you've already done some of the other "little" details ...

Are you using electric fans rather than mechanical driven fan?
Serpentine belt system? can free up a few horses.
Electric water pump may also free up a few more....

But I think you nailed it in a previous post.... weight.
Weight is a big factor in ET's, as is suspension and setup.

You're pulling good times.... keep at it.

tom
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 10:14 AM
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Running a flex fan, stock pulleys and a regular aluminum water pump. Probably won't change any of that as yet as I like the engine to look kind of average, If not for the ignition box and cool can.
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