The reassembly of my 69 clutch fork is giving me problems and I can't find a solution. On installing the fork on the pivot ball, I broke an ear off the clutch fork spring. Instead of buying a new fork with a new spring attached, I found a source of a new spring and went that route. I had to make my own rivet and installed the new spring, but can't manage to mount it to the pivot ball stud. Obviously, I couldn't mount it with the original spring either, as I broke it. Many years ago when replacing the original clutch I was able to mount it, but had to straighten the two spring ears to get it on the pivot ball. The space between the spring ears is adequate to mount the stud.

I have an AIM, Corvette Shop Manual, Chilton's manual, Hayes Manual and 69 Chasis manual and can't find how to install the fork to the ball stud. The only thing one manual says is "there is a difference between the L-48 and L-82 ball stud and the correct stud should be used." There is no picture comparing the studs, or illustrating any difference in the spring configeration.

My spring will not mount on the ball stud I have. I have tried with the stud all the way in, out and in the middle of the bellhousing adjustment. Unless there is some trick to mounting it to the stud, I have to assume I have the wrong stud. The new spring I have mounted to my fork looks exactly like what is pictured in my manual.

Can anyone help me and set me in the right direction on this issue?

 

Not an expert but it is a little tricky getting a fork with a new spring to POP into place.

 

I just put a little bearing grease on the forkspring and pushed it on but I had the bell housing off. What I can tell you is obvious if you tilt the fork arm forwards towards the motor and the fork is pointing back towards the tranny and pull on the arm the spring will grab easier.


What I would be more concerned with is if you dont have the tranny slid back to properly view the TB is that when you do slide the fork in the fork tip and clip will not set correctly in the throught bearing. That when I pulled you clutch I noticed mine was incorrectand the fork tips and clips grabbed the outter ring of the TB instead of snapping inbetween the bearing and that lip.

Sorry I couldnt be more help

 

Maybe I should have said the bell housing is out of the car, so it is easy to get at all parts. I got a head of steam and went out to the garage and tried it again and succeeded. The two spring ears would not go under the ball and on the shoulder, so I used an allen wrench to raise the spring ears up some, just like before. The allen wrench trick worked this time and I had it greased enough, so I could push it on the rest of the way. The spring was so stiff, I broke an ear off this way last time and I didn't want a replay. On any other car I replaced a clutch fork the spring caught the pivot ball and easily pushed on, but not this one. This is why I asked in desperation if there was some trick I was unaware of to get it in. Clutch fork springs are getting scarce and DocRebuild only has a few left.

BTW...if anyone needs to replace a fork spring I'd suggest using a machine screw for a rivet. Hammer type solid rivets are scarce as hens teeth, so you will probably need to make your own. After finding a suitable length screw, it will be too large in diameter to fit into the hole in the clutch fork. Put the shank into a hand drill , or drill press chuck and turn the screw. Use a file to reduce the screw head diameter. Once you have done this, secure the screw head in the chuck and use the file to reduce the shank diameter. Check frequently to avoid removing too much from the threads.

After making a proper fit, you need to make a head set to hold your rivet while you pound a head on the other end. To make this, I simply found a solid 1/2" X 8 inch shaft and drilled a dimple on one end. This shaft went into a vise vertically. Next, I took a 3/8th X 3 inch bolt and drilled a dimple on the threaded end. This tool is what I pounded on to mushroom the other end of my rivet. The spring has a preload, so it will need to be held in place with a wide jawed Vise Grip while you get the rivet started. Installing a new spring isn't very difficult, it is making a proper rivet and the tools required that made it difficult. And in my case, getting the spring under the pivot ball without breaking another spring.

 

Wow, you went to an awful lot of trouble for a rivet & spring.
I replaced mine about two years ago. Got the spring and solid rivet from Zip. Just $6.50 for both. Rivet was made of VERY hard material and required quite the set/pounding but looks and works great.

 

It sounds to me like you purchased a new spring with different material properties and maybe thickness than the original stock. The spring has to be just right to be able to "stretch" over the ball stud and still hold securely. At least you got it to work. Hopefully it's not too tight to cause premature wear of the stud or spring. Good luck.

 

Say....where were you guys when I needed this part? I thought I had tried all the vendors, but must have missed Zip. I ended up buying my spring at a cost of $33.95 with shipping. It was supposed to be an OEM part. I thought that was a little high, but the entire fork and spring was over $80. The work I went through to fix this broken spring extended the project time about two weeks. I hope this thread helps someone down the road doing a search to solve a similar problem.
56-81 THROW-OUT BEARING CLIP
Product Number:CL-175 Price: $6.50
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