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Hey Green76, If your valve is adjusted correctly, steering box is set up correctly, steering colum not binding and the wheel alignment is correct the steerting wheel should try to come to center after a turn. Mine dose, but there could be may factors why it might not.
I doubt if there are any new recently manufactured GM control valves. Maybe a few NOS remain in circulation. Whether someone else is making them from GM prints I dont know. There are quality rebuilt valves by 'A 1 Cardone'. Most local parts warehouses carry this brand and where the local parts stores buy from.. Google 'A 1 Cardone' . Also Rock Auto Parts offer this brand at $235.00 with a $40.00 core.
62C1,
You mentioned that you race your Vette. Possibly your control valve leaks were the result of high steering fluid temperatures. High temperatures can cause problems with the rubber seals in your new integral power gear as well.
If you haven't already, you should consider a return line power steering cooler.
Also, reducing the displacement of your power steering pump will also reduce fluid temperatures. You reduce the displacement by installing a pump with a cam ring inside the pump that does not have as much rise. Chrysler minivans (before 2000) used a Saginaw P-pump with a 60series cam ring that had reduced rise. Removing the ring, rotor, and vanes from a Chrysler pump and installing them in your Vette pump will result in lower displacement and lower fluid temperatures.
Another alternative would be to obtain the Chrysler minivan P-pump and swap your reservoir, flow control valve, discharge fitting, and studs. One thing though, the front of the Chrysler pump housing will have metric threads. Be sure to obtain the metric mounting bolts with the pump. BTW, the guts of the pump are not affected by the metric exterior fasteners. All of the internal parts will still be interchangeable.
Sean82,
I would think that bore wear in the control valve housing might be a cause of some seepage problems. There are two spools inside the valve that move back and forth. Any scoring or rough surface features in the housing bores can cause wear or may even cut the lip of the rubber seal(s) inside the valve. Lip seal wear could result in very slow seepage of fluid.
Thanks for the heads up. I did install a PS cooler when I did the conversion. Never heard of the pump mods. Sounds like a plan. I am also running a hydraboost. Will this pump modification affect it's operation?
Originally Posted by Jim Shea
62C1,
You mentioned that you race your Vette. Possibly your control valve leaks were the result of high steering fluid temperatures. High temperatures can cause problems with the rubber seals in your new integral power gear as well.
If you haven't already, you should consider a return line power steering cooler.
Also, reducing the displacement of your power steering pump will also reduce fluid temperatures. You reduce the displacement by installing a pump with a cam ring inside the pump that does not have as much rise. Chrysler minivans (before 2000) used a Saginaw P-pump with a 60series cam ring that had reduced rise. Removing the ring, rotor, and vanes from a Chrysler pump and installing them in your Vette pump will result in lower displacement and lower fluid temperatures.
Another alternative would be to obtain the Chrysler minivan P-pump and swap your reservoir, flow control valve, discharge fitting, and studs. One thing though, the front of the Chrysler pump housing will have metric threads. Be sure to obtain the metric mounting bolts with the pump. BTW, the guts of the pump are not affected by the metric exterior fasteners. All of the internal parts will still be interchangeable.
Sean82,
I would think that bore wear in the control valve housing might be a cause of some seepage problems. There are two spools inside the valve that move back and forth. Any scoring or rough surface features in the housing bores can cause wear or may even cut the lip of the rubber seal(s) inside the valve. Lip seal wear could result in very slow seepage of fluid.
Jim
The cast iron control valve housing comes in two halves....I've heard that the original control valves had an o-ring seal to prevent leakage when the two halves were bolted together. What I heard, was as the last control valves were being made, Saginaw (?) deleted the o-ring seal technique and instead decided to increase the flatness tolerance of the mating surfaces and just use a Permatex like material to affect a seal. The control valves manufactured by the company that bought the tooling continue to use the "Permatex" sealing technique....and I would suspect this could be a cause of leaking also.
.....actually I spent some time last night in the garage digging through all my used parts looking for my lightly used 1969 control valve. I've found the PS, the ram, but still no control valve...its' out there somewhere.
Hey Green76, If your valve is adjusted correctly, steering box is set up correctly, steering colum not binding and the wheel alignment is correct the steerting wheel should try to come to center after a turn. Mine dose, but there could be may factors why it might not.
I have a remanufactured control valve on my 68. New Saginaw steering box, and "new" power ram. When making a turn, I have to steer the wheel back to a neutral (straightforward) position. The wheel does start to return on it's own but not fast enough. On my current daily drivers, after making a turn I can just take my hands off the wheel and they straighten out by themselves. So steering the 68 is a heads up experience. I went over 20 years without driving a C3 so I can't remember if the steering wheel turning performance is like it always has been.
Other than the above, my steering is great. No play in the steering at all. A little fast twitch on the steering wheel produces an immediate response. As I said before, steering the 68 means you have to be alert at all times (....i.e. the above heads up comment).
Right now I have 66,000 miles on the odometer, I'm the original owner, my power steering has never been touched untill now, every thing was original.
I did adjust the control valve with the power ram (cylinder) disconected at the frame, I can by hand pull or push the ram all the way in or out while the engine is running so I know that it is ballanced perfect....
I also have to assist the steering wheel some after making a sharp turn in order to go straight, but it doesn't do it quick enough by it self.
I wonder if the spring tension inside the control valve is stiffer causing this problem.
I have no play in the steering wheel what so ever.
By the way the power steering pump and hoses are still original in my vette.
Last edited by Green76; Jul 9, 2008 at 12:44 PM.
Reason: Added more text.
Check the alignment of your steering column to your steering gear. Look at the stop pins on your flexible coupling as they fit in the slots on the steering column flange.
The pins should always be central in the slots. Now turn your steering wheel one quarter turn and recheck the pin in the slots. (You may even need a small mirror to check.)
If you see contact (or worse yet - if you see wear grooves on the stop pins) the increased friction because the column and steering gear are not aligned could be causing your slow returnability.
There is a Chevrolet mandatory alignment procedure to assure that things are aligned. The procedure can be found in the AIM or in the Chassis Service Manual.
BTW, your parts may have been aligned perfectly from the factory but after 30+ years your body mounts could have settled.
I too would recommend going with a remanufactured control valve by VBP. They have been rebuilding the control valves and rams for over 20 years and their units come with a 5 year warranty. They are also nitrogen tested as well as just a quickie air test. New units will only carry about a 30 to 90 day warranty and are typically not up to the quality of the VBP remanufactured ones.
I know there is a core charge, but the valve is rather small and lightweight compared to other components and you could return the core via the postal service to cut costs. Also, when ordering, instruct the person taking your order to ship via the postal service. It will save you alot in shipping. Also have them mark the postal form and the invoice "parts are and for restoration of an Antique Corvette". This will also help with the duties and taxes.
Sean82,
I would think that bore wear in the control valve housing might be a cause of some seepage problems. There are two spools inside the valve that move back and forth. Any scoring or rough surface features in the housing bores can cause wear or may even cut the lip of the rubber seal(s) inside the valve. Lip seal wear could result in very slow seepage of fluid.
Jim
You are 100% correct Jim.
I am certain that is my problem.
I have taken apart the valve and seen exactly what you describ.
Does anyone know if they fix the scoring when they rebuid the valves?
do they put in new larger seals in?
I too would recommend going with a remanufactured control valve by VBP. They have been rebuilding the control valves and rams for over 20 years and their units come with a 5 year warranty. They are also nitrogen tested as well as just a quickie air test. New units will only carry about a 30 to 90 day warranty and are typically not up to the quality of the VBP remanufactured ones.
I know there is a core charge, but the valve is rather small and lightweight compared to other components and you could return the core via the postal service to cut costs. Also, when ordering, instruct the person taking your order to ship via the postal service. It will save you alot in shipping. Also have them mark the postal form and the invoice "parts are and for restoration of an Antique Corvette". This will also help with the duties and taxes.
I will second suggestion for Lonestar Calipers also rebuilds the valves.
I tried a cheap rebuild kit, waste of time and money, it still leaked like a pig.
installed a rebuilt Assy. from Lone Star, perfect out of the box, no leaks and centered, with new hardware, and reasonable priced.
I will second suggestion for Lonestar Calipers also rebuilds the valves.
I tried a cheap rebuild kit, waste of time and money, it still leaked like a pig.
installed a rebuilt Assy. from Lone Star, perfect out of the box, no leaks and centered, with new hardware, and reasonable priced.
I have a rebuild kit with a few seals and o-rings. Doesn't look too impressive particularly in view of the comments on metal-contact wear and machining needs on re-built units. So I ordered a new unit from Lone Star today. We shall see as to quality. Made by them, no core needed, and a five-year warranty. Price is $208.70 including shipping to me in Canada. I will report back in future.
These guys sell crap stuff with crappy rebuilds. Stay away. I only know because I have had their stuff before and I have had to send almost all of it off somewhere to be rebuilt by someone competent (including the PS control valve).
I have learned this the hard way many times. "If it sounds too good to be true then it probably is."
Get the priority parcel box that says flat rate on it. They have two kinds; and, as long as you can fit the valve in the box you can send it for a flat rate of something like $9.00 - not quite as much as the core charge.
Nice "looking" new unit from Lone Star. Great shipping service from them and US Postal Global Express ($22.40). Arrived from Texas to Ontario in about five days. I can't get it in for a couple of days re performance but can't fault the process.
OP, where did that $150.00 shipping come from? That's simply nonsense.
I received my rebuilt valve from Mid America and was lucky to not have to adjust it at all after installation. I couldn't believe the difference. The PO had disconnected all hoses, cut off the PS belt and used a sawsall to cut off the cylinder. I reconnected the valve and replaced the cylinder two years ago but really got an upper body workout whenever I turned the wheels. What a difference a new valve makes. I haven't been able to get it on the road for over a year but got it out the other day and forgot how fun it was!