C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 04:39 PM
  #21  
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Polishing smooths out the surface which is where most cracks start. I'd think that a good shot peening after polishing would be even better as this compresses the surface, inhibiting cracks. Folks have been doing this to OEM connecting rods for years and swearing by the practices.
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 04:56 PM
  #22  
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It's not a dumb question. If you look at the cracked posi case above you'll see it is in it's stock form, rough ground on the flashing and that's it.
Tuning and polishing a posi requires grinding all the edges, the internal seams, and windows. I also polish the OD and the flange. The RG holes are countersunk as well. I'll never say they're bullitproof as there are some big guns out there, but it is better then a stock casting. The theory is to smooth out the stress risers that lead to cracks. The clutches should be solid steels, no fiber or snowflakes, and tuned without the plates and springs. Outside of Tom's, Mike, myself, and the people I trained I don't know of anyone else that does this. Main reason is money, it takes me about 4-5 hours to polish and tune a posi alone.Done right they out perform any vette posi, done wrong they'll hammer or break.

Iron diff's can be built many ways. Most of what you see are in the $500-$800 range are not custom built but rather standard stock rebuilds. They are not bad for a mild street car but few owners fully understand the differences on how things are done today with respect to these.

If you're going to build a 500+ hp car and push it hard then you might look into the various ways to add strength to them, but remember time is money and it will not be a $800 job.Fitting a steel cap alone is a few hours work( doing it the correct way).

Many have acheived great results at home building their own diff's with the correct parts and local machine shop help. Given some coaching I have helped a few guys build units that were well beyond what they could have exchanged theirs for.

As with anything, do your homework before you decide. Don't get fooled by some of the advertising out there, with some knowledge you'll see through a lot.

Good luck with your car.

If you want more info on this, PM me and I'll get you the link.
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 07:26 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by roscobbc
I am still not totally convinced that a high numerical 1st gear ratio is neccesary with engines developing high torque at low rpm. If the car is going to let go in the form of uncontrolled wheelspin where is the advantage?
I bought my first Richmond 5 speed (actually sold under the Doug Nash name) when I had a piece part built L88 in a 69. I had a 3.08:1 rear end. With the L88 cam, I had a lot of trouble getting the car rolling from a stop (of course I could rev the engine and do a clutch dump, but this disturbs other people in normal city driving!) With the Richmond 5 speed, my L88 now thought it "saw" a 4.11:1 in first gear. It was a very happy engine.
....
About the latest posting. Shot peening and polishing the diff case prevents stress cracks from forming. Don't know that much about crystal fracture mechanics, but it works.
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Old Jul 8, 2008 | 09:35 PM
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I am really hoping that torque 'does it for me'. At the lower end of the scale the engine dyno showed 220 bhp and 470 ft/lbs @ 2500 rpm which may help compensate for the low numerical gearing.
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Old Jul 9, 2008 | 01:27 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by GrandSportC3
If you have a stick shift and over 500 HP, the only way to have a strong enough rear setup would be to either install a Tom's 12-bolt setup or a solid axle. With stick and less than 500 HP or less than 700 HP with automatic (without transbrake), you can do the following:

1) stronger half shafts (preferably 3 inch thick wall half shafts)
2) solid Spicer U-joints
3) have your posi case polished and hardened spider gears installed
4) install a 400+ lbs/inch rear spring and QA1 shocks to prevent excessive squatting. Squatting is one of the major issues.
5) lower the strut rod mount (special bracket available) in order to prevent camber change when rear is compressing.

those mods shift the weakest link to the axles. However, without going to Tom's setup, I don't see how you can upgrade to larger axles. Those 17 spline stock axles just won't do the job with high HP applications.
good sounding advice
i just installed drag light rims with MT drag radials and they do not spin at all. ive got a very stout 383 with a 5 spd TKO. so now im concerned about the axles

Last edited by rebc3; Jul 9, 2008 at 01:34 PM.
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