strengthening the IRS
Tuning and polishing a posi requires grinding all the edges, the internal seams, and windows. I also polish the OD and the flange. The RG holes are countersunk as well. I'll never say they're bullitproof as there are some big guns out there, but it is better then a stock casting. The theory is to smooth out the stress risers that lead to cracks. The clutches should be solid steels, no fiber or snowflakes, and tuned without the plates and springs. Outside of Tom's, Mike, myself, and the people I trained I don't know of anyone else that does this. Main reason is money, it takes me about 4-5 hours to polish and tune a posi alone.Done right they out perform any vette posi, done wrong they'll hammer or break.
Iron diff's can be built many ways. Most of what you see are in the $500-$800 range are not custom built but rather standard stock rebuilds. They are not bad for a mild street car but few owners fully understand the differences on how things are done today with respect to these.
If you're going to build a 500+ hp car and push it hard then you might look into the various ways to add strength to them, but remember time is money and it will not be a $800 job.Fitting a steel cap alone is a few hours work( doing it the correct way).
Many have acheived great results at home building their own diff's with the correct parts and local machine shop help. Given some coaching I have helped a few guys build units that were well beyond what they could have exchanged theirs for.
As with anything, do your homework before you decide. Don't get fooled by some of the advertising out there, with some knowledge you'll see through a lot.
Good luck with your car.
If you want more info on this, PM me and I'll get you the link.
....
About the latest posting. Shot peening and polishing the diff case prevents stress cracks from forming. Don't know that much about crystal fracture mechanics, but it works.
1) stronger half shafts (preferably 3 inch thick wall half shafts)
2) solid Spicer U-joints
3) have your posi case polished and hardened spider gears installed
4) install a 400+ lbs/inch rear spring and QA1 shocks to prevent excessive squatting. Squatting is one of the major issues.
5) lower the strut rod mount (special bracket available) in order to prevent camber change when rear is compressing.
those mods shift the weakest link to the axles. However, without going to Tom's setup, I don't see how you can upgrade to larger axles. Those 17 spline stock axles just won't do the job with high HP applications.
i just installed drag light rims with MT drag radials and they do not spin at all. ive got a very stout 383 with a 5 spd TKO. so now im concerned about the axles
Last edited by rebc3; Jul 9, 2008 at 01:34 PM.













