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Touchy Hydraboost Brakes

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Old Jul 6, 2008 | 07:36 PM
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Default Touchy Hydraboost Brakes

I just installed a Jeep power steering box and hydraboost brakes from Hydratech in my 66 roadster. The power steering is awesome (more on that later).

However, the hydraboost brakes are way too touchy. If you step on the brake pedal it goes from no brakes to lock up way too easily. I find myself having to concentrate when braking to conciously just lightly tap the brake pedal to avoid lock up. I had expected braking to be progressive and similar to brakes in new cars I drive (e.g., SUVs, Audi, rental cars). But that is not the case. My hydraboost set up is oversensitive... like a switch... no brakes to --> full on brakes.

Any hydraboost owners have this issue before? Any suggestions on how to fix the oversensitive brakes?

Thanks!
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Old Jul 6, 2008 | 07:55 PM
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I have helped a lot of people install Hydroboost boosters in their C3s and don't recall anyone having that problem when everything was installed correctly.

First, did you get a master with the Hydro or did you use one of your own? Second, was the car originally a power or manual brake car? Third, of the brake pedal, there are two holes for the pedal rod from the booster. An upper and lower. When using the Hydro, you need to use the lower of the two holes.

Finally, I found with my Hydro I have greater braking control with my heel firmly on the floor. I use my toe only when braking and accelerating. If you brake with your heel off the floor, using your leg muscle and calf to press the pedal, you get way too much force.

Edit - I see it's a '66, not a '68 like I thought when I read to fast. You may only have one hole in the pedal.

It may have something to do with the bore diameter of the master. It'll come down, I think, to what master you have installed.
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Old Jul 6, 2008 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
I have helped a lot of people install Hydroboost boosters in their C3s and don't recall anyone having that problem when everything was installed correctly.

First, did you get a master with the Hydro or did you use one of your own? Second, was the car originally a power or manual brake car? Third, of the brake pedal, there are two holes for the pedal rod from the booster. An upper and lower. When using the Hydro, you need to use the lower of the two holes.

Finally, I found with my Hydro I have greater braking control with my heel firmly on the floor. I use my toe only when braking and accelerating. If you brake with your heel off the floor, using your leg muscle and calf to press the pedal, you get way too much force.

Edit - I see it's a '66, not a '68 like I thought when I read to fast. You may only have one hole in the pedal.

It may have something to do with the bore diameter of the master. It'll come down, I think, to what master you have installed.
Durango Boy,

Thanks for your response. Answers to questions below.

First, did you get a master with the Hydro or did you use one of your own? 66Bluerdster: I did get a master with the Hydro, which was recommended by VB&P. 1 1/8 inch bore.

Second, was the car originally a power or manual brake car? 66Bluerdster: It was originally a manual brake car, which was converted to power using a kit using 67 power brake parts.

Third, of the brake pedal, there are two holes for the pedal rod from the booster. An upper and lower. When using the Hydro, you need to use the lower of the two holes. 66Bluerdster: Don't know. Will check this.

Finally, I found with my Hydro I have greater braking control with my heel firmly on the floor. I use my toe only when braking and accelerating. If you brake with your heel off the floor, using your leg muscle and calf to press the pedal, you get way too much force.
66Bluerdster: I brake with my heel on the floor but still find it's way too touchy in comparison to modern power brake cars. There is no way I would feel comfortable giving the keys to someone who is used to modern power brakes.... in a panic situation they would lock up the brakes.

I'm wondering if it's just the norm for hydraboost set ups. I.e., don't expect it to be similar to say driving a new SUV, Audi, rental car etc.

Thanks.
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Old Jul 6, 2008 | 08:29 PM
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i had a similar problem . i'd push the pedal and get no brakes and all of a sudden they'd get real tight. it was right after i installed it and it went away after driving a short run. my guess was it was air in the lines that worked itself out
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Old Jul 6, 2008 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by chris75stingray
i had a similar problem . i'd push the pedal and get no brakes and all of a sudden they'd get real tight. it was right after i installed it and it went away after driving a short run. my guess was it was air in the lines that worked itself out
Chris,

My situation is if I touch the brakes, they fully engage. I need to truly only use my toe vs. the top half of my foot, otherwise, I risk the brakes engaging too much. I don't have a problem with delayed response... i.e., when pressing the pedal, get no brakes, then the brakes getting real tight. I'll try driving a little more. Drove about 50 miles so far.

Thanks.
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Old Jul 6, 2008 | 11:19 PM
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I just did mine-thanks to DB for that and the pedal feel is right as DB describes it. Use your heel to toe method to apply the brakes and you get pretty good modulation. It feels like a how a brand new cars' brakes should feel. The pedal in nicely solid!!

A had 2 bambi's (even had the white dots) try to run out on the highway in front of me this last week, and I had to hit the brakes hard. The hydroboost worked flawlessly locking up the brakes as I hit it, then released quickly as I let up. If it had been my old vacuum booster, I would have just about had to put my foot through the floor to get the brakes to lock up.

Very happy with this upgrade.

Brent....
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 01:03 AM
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Way back in '79 when gas was hard to get, I bought a diesel Cadillac Seville. Being a diesel, it had no intake vacuum, so it came from the factory with a hydroboost unit. That car braked like any other luxury car then or now. In fact, if you didn't know it had a hydroboost, you wouldn't have known it wasn't like any other car. Well, acceleration wasn't it's strong point .

Cheers,
Pete
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 02:50 AM
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I recall correctly, DB hit it, the master cyl for a power brake shark is one inch even.....not 1.125......that puts more travel into the pedal for better feel.....I had what was known as a 'truck' master cyl on my car to get better braking from that old vac booster, it was a basic improvment but not cure.....I put on the HB unit, and damn went through the windshield with it.....then put on a aluminum one inch m/cyl and it is fine.....

brakes are EVER so much better now.....3 years without any problems....

longest stretch in the 15 years I have had this car....

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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 07:10 AM
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If I am backing out of the garage slowly and touch the brake it stops on a dime, even sometimes when I don't want it to. It took some getting use to to be able to back out smooth and evenly. On the road though it's fine once I got use to it.
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Old Jul 7, 2008 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 78Vette-SA
If I am backing out of the garage slowly and touch the brake it stops on a dime, even sometimes when I don't want it to. It took some getting use to to be able to back out smooth and evenly. On the road though it's fine once I got use to it.

OH, yes yes and HELL YES..... I drive any other car/vehicle with a vacuum booster and it feels like crap, even brand new ones....like my neighbors Nissan or Caddy or Saturn, or my old Dodge van even.....wife's Escort included.....and the brakes feel like crap.....

I just don't LIKE 4" or better pedal travel and than squishey on the bottom to the floorboard type brake feel.....

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