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Just in case you’re interested in making your car legal For NHRA Super gas 9.90 secs or SCCA Pro Solo II or feel the need to exceed 200 mph at The Bonneville Salt flats. This is my new 6-point. It will be an 8-point soon. I wanted to try it out and see what mods need to be made. That's why the passenger seat is still stock. C-3's are small inside and when you add bars it's worse. I had to leave room to operate the lights wipers and hood release. My seat mounts have to be modified so I can move the seat 1 1/2 inches back flush with the body and tilted 10 - 15 degrees. The Sparco racing seats are made to sit nearly straight up and down. These are fiberglass seats that only weight 12.6 pounds. I still have to have the rear sound material and upholstery done. I also have to have a fire system installed. It's a twin system for under the hood and drivers compartment.
Flareside - It's a pain to get in and out of. I'm thinking about swingouts on the 45 degree door bar. At least on the passenger side.
Jim - The race fab shop here only does Porsches and off road pickups. They also do sprint cars and various circle track repairs. So I have a test model C-3. With other input, they really want to see how others were done. I'm already thinking of a few changes. The price kind of got out of hand like everything.
Sparco seats, mounts, and cam lock 5 point belts $1300
The agreed upon price for the bars with my mods and finish with 8 points was $1200. I have to redo the rear so I don't know how much that will cost. It might be $3000 by the time I'm done.
If you look you can see my trouble light behind the seat. So I have to modify the seat brackets to allow adjustment back and I want more tilt.
Looking good so far! What size is the wall thickness of the tubing, and are you going to paint it after all is said and done? Looks as if you might have to do a "Dukes of Hazzard" type entrance to get in your car :lol:
Looks great, nice clean welds. $1300 ain't bad at all for all of that. Alot of people don't realize how expensive custom stuff can get - all the time required to measure, test fit, refit, etc. It really adds up. I am finding that out myself. Is that mild or moly?
Monty - My buddy at the body shop will paint them if I do all the prep. and taping. I guess the color will be black unless I do metal flake blue like my motor. What do you think about a color? You can't easily do chromemoly in a car because you have to heat it to 400 degrees at all thepipe weld joints to aneal them. So it a crash they bend and don't break.
45ACP - Nhra requires .118 wall 1 3/4 mild steel. This is done with seemless .125 wall so it's way above specs. Overkill for safety.
Gordonm - My girl friend likes hot cars, I think that she looks good climbing in and out. Untill I get the sound absorbing and carpet all in I'm not giving rides. The stock rear interior does a great job of keeping the interior quiet.
Looks good! Just curious, it looks like the T-top release for each side will be in the way. This is the same problem I ran into, if so how are you going to deal with it?
Injected - That's what happen on mine also. They told me that my car would be ready the next day and then they called back cussing about that they couldn't put the TTops ons. So they had to cut the top hoop out. I even pointed that out when I took my car in. I went over everything that I needed to have working.
looks great... i never would have thout blue and green would go together, but dang that looks sweet...
Thanks for talking about the gear ratios, i think i have almost figured it out, the best part being i dont hope to go over 130 ever in this car, so i geuss i get out easy
I think balck would look, fine, that's typically what you see. Color matchiing would definitely give it a custom look, but I like a little contrast myself. What about a silver, or aluminum color, something like the aluminum color of Jet Hot coating. I know you can't Jet Hot it, but somehting that color.
Also, how did they secure it to the frame? Is is welded directly to the frame, thru the body, or did the weld stubs to the frame, sticking up through the body,and then bolt the cage to those stubs - so that you can still remove the body from the frame if you ever needed to? I don't know if that would be legal, probably not, but that's what has always been a cosndieration to me. Not that I ever lift my body off the frame, just something I wondered about.