383 Short block suggestions
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
From: Charleston SC
383 Short block suggestions
Just wondering if anyone out there had first hand experience with any of the myriad choices for a 383 short block. I was planning on doing a 383 with AFR heads, edelbrock air gap, possibly a serpentine set up, HEI tach drive, ect, for the 73. My goal for this engine is somewhere between 400-450 honest hp. 98% street driving. I know that I could take the easy way out and buy a zz383, but I feel that with a quality, well priced short block and the parts I mentioned, I could build something better for less. Thanks in advance.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,270
Likes: 20
From: Central Michigan
My suggestion would be to start out with an '87 & later block so you can use a factory-style roller cam set-up. Found mine at the wrecking yard for $100, but they can be had for cheaper than that
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 7,739
Likes: 630
From: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
... if you're going for only 450 hp street 383 ... get about '96-'99 pu/van/truck motor ... it'll have factory vortec heads in addition to roller ... vortecs will easily meet your stated goal. Keep in mind though ... on many of the later blocks, the old mechanical fuel pump mount boss is Not fully machined and is Not functional ... but, minimal machinework makes it AOK.
However, if you're planning to buy an assembled shortblock from "X" & add heads/cam/etc from "Y/Z"... I suggest against that approach ... Instead, I'd suggest you buy the complete GMPP ZZ383 motor & enjoy its best-in-industry warranty.
Last edited by jackson; Jul 21, 2008 at 11:03 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 30,183
Likes: 313
From: Lake Norman NC
you can build an honest 450+hp 383 for about the price of a zz383 ($4700). Maybe more, depending on your choice of heads. You could get a decent short block made with a cast crank, forged rods, and forged pistons, set-up for a nice roller cam, air gap intake, and a good set of heads for about $5K..
I have a 383 running 480-500hp...AFR 195s, air gap intake, comp cams billet roller custom grind, and it is very streetable. Idles about 900rpms and pulls to 6k like theres no tomorrow.
I have a 383 running 480-500hp...AFR 195s, air gap intake, comp cams billet roller custom grind, and it is very streetable. Idles about 900rpms and pulls to 6k like theres no tomorrow.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,202
Likes: 765
From: Houston, TX
Here is a link to M&R, a reputable vendor on ebay that sells 383 short blocks for cheaper than you can build them. The motor on the link is all forged, and is $2,100. They also have one with a cast crank that is only $1,649.
Shortcut to: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALL-F...mZ150271539134
Shortcut to: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALL-F...mZ150271539134
Racer
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 301
Likes: 5
From: Youngstown NY
Here's what I did.
Block: 1974 (L82) 350, 4-bolt mains. Bored .030” over (4.030” Cylinder diameter) Deck Height at 7.125” from center of crank. 0.000” TDC (Head gasket thickness is piston to head clearance).
Heads: AFR 1034 - 195cc/68cc aluminum with 8032 upgrade. (0.4375” diameter rocker studs)
Crank: Eagle #435037506000 – 3.750” stroke (350 mains)
Rods: Eagle # ESP CRS6000B3D - H-beam (6.000” center of wrist pin to center of crank bore)
Pistons: SRP #J100F8-4030-5 flat top (383 cubic inch) 1.125” compression height, 64cc compression ratio.
Camshaft: Comp Cams #12-443-8 (grind #CS XR294HR-10) Valve lift – 0.540” Intake, & 0.562” Exhaust, Duration at 0.050” – 242 Intake, & 248 Exhaust, Lobe separation – 110 degrees.
Valve train: Comp Cams #885-16 lifters (hydraulic roller), & #1304-16 roller rocker arms, with #7645-16 push rods (7.850” long). With AFR rev kit installed on lifters.
Intake manifold: Dart Kool Kan.
Fuel system: 750 CFM Mighty Demon carburetor, with Edelbrock #1721 fuel pump.
Ignition: MSD – #8361 Pro-Billet Distributor (vacuum advance), with #6420 ignition control (6AL W/R), Blastor 2 coil, & Moroso #73602 Ultra 40 Race Wires.
Block: 1974 (L82) 350, 4-bolt mains. Bored .030” over (4.030” Cylinder diameter) Deck Height at 7.125” from center of crank. 0.000” TDC (Head gasket thickness is piston to head clearance).
Heads: AFR 1034 - 195cc/68cc aluminum with 8032 upgrade. (0.4375” diameter rocker studs)
Crank: Eagle #435037506000 – 3.750” stroke (350 mains)
Rods: Eagle # ESP CRS6000B3D - H-beam (6.000” center of wrist pin to center of crank bore)
Pistons: SRP #J100F8-4030-5 flat top (383 cubic inch) 1.125” compression height, 64cc compression ratio.
Camshaft: Comp Cams #12-443-8 (grind #CS XR294HR-10) Valve lift – 0.540” Intake, & 0.562” Exhaust, Duration at 0.050” – 242 Intake, & 248 Exhaust, Lobe separation – 110 degrees.
Valve train: Comp Cams #885-16 lifters (hydraulic roller), & #1304-16 roller rocker arms, with #7645-16 push rods (7.850” long). With AFR rev kit installed on lifters.
Intake manifold: Dart Kool Kan.
Fuel system: 750 CFM Mighty Demon carburetor, with Edelbrock #1721 fuel pump.
Ignition: MSD – #8361 Pro-Billet Distributor (vacuum advance), with #6420 ignition control (6AL W/R), Blastor 2 coil, & Moroso #73602 Ultra 40 Race Wires.
Last edited by Zoix; Jul 21, 2008 at 04:21 PM. Reason: Want to insert image
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
From: Charleston SC
you can build an honest 450+hp 383 for about the price of a zz383 ($4700). Maybe more, depending on your choice of heads. You could get a decent short block made with a cast crank, forged rods, and forged pistons, set-up for a nice roller cam, air gap intake, and a good set of heads for about $5K..
I have a 383 running 480-500hp...AFR 195s, air gap intake, comp cams billet roller custom grind, and it is very streetable. Idles about 900rpms and pulls to 6k like theres no tomorrow.
I have a 383 running 480-500hp...AFR 195s, air gap intake, comp cams billet roller custom grind, and it is very streetable. Idles about 900rpms and pulls to 6k like theres no tomorrow.
Did you build the rotating assembly yourself, or did you buy a short block from a vendor?? If so, whom did you buy it from?? Thanks again.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
From: Charleston SC
Here is a link to M&R, a reputable vendor on ebay that sells 383 short blocks for cheaper than you can build them. The motor on the link is all forged, and is $2,100. They also have one with a cast crank that is only $1,649.
Shortcut to: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALL-F...mZ150271539134
Shortcut to: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALL-F...mZ150271539134
Looks like a good deal if it is honestly represented.... do you, or does anyone have first hand experience with this builder. Thank you.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 30,183
Likes: 313
From: Lake Norman NC
http://www.golenengineservice.com/ht...carbureted.htm
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,202
Likes: 765
From: Houston, TX
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 3
From: belle plaine ks
I'm in the process of putting in the gm 383 short block, afr 195 heads, and lt4 hot cam. The reason I bought the gm is warranty. I do not want to deal with an engine builder 1500 miles away if I have an issue with the motor. I can take it to the local gm dealership if there is a problem. The gm 383 is a little more expensive short block, but everything is brand new and it comes with a forged crankshaft 1 piece rear main seal and hydraulic roller from the factory. I know some people say I can get this done cheaper at this engine builder or that engine builder, but unless they are near by and reasonably priced that is not always true. I'm also saying that what I have done is not the end all be all for anyone. It's just the way I wanted to go with mine. Maybe this will help maybe not. Your mileage may vary
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,993
Likes: 1,136
From: League City Tx
I'm in the process of putting in the gm 383 short block, afr 195 heads, and lt4 hot cam. The reason I bought the gm is warranty. I do not want to deal with an engine builder 1500 miles away if I have an issue with the motor. I can take it to the local gm dealership if there is a problem. The gm 383 is a little more expensive short block, but everything is brand new and it comes with a forged crankshaft 1 piece rear main seal and hydraulic roller from the factory. I know some people say I can get this done cheaper at this engine builder or that engine builder, but unless they are near by and reasonably priced that is not always true. I'm also saying that what I have done is not the end all be all for anyone. It's just the way I wanted to go with mine. Maybe this will help maybe not. Your mileage may vary
I would be all over a ZZ383 also if it wasn't for the hypereutectic pistons in it..... I mean they will put a good steel crank, decent PM rods but then slap hyper pistons in it? I suppose they are good enough for the 425hp it comes with but.....the ZZ383 long block even has good heads(the Fast Burns) all that motor needs to make some good power is a real cam and valve springs......but its so damn expensive to buy($5300 or so), then to have to take it apart to swap cam/springs etc....You are at $6k by the time you are done for a 450-460hp motor. That was my plan after my hopes of the T&L 408" went to the ****ter.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 338
Likes: 4
From: Bowling Green Kentucky
I have purchased through M&R. I got a 383 all forged short block. They use late blocks with one piece rear main seals and they are factory roller cam blocks so you can go roller cam for cheap if you want. Matt is great to work with, very knowledgable and will point you in the right direction. They're stuff is first rate and meticulously assembled. I didn't purchase on E-Bay, I went direct because I had many variences (customizations) to the base package. I highly recomend M & R Engines to anyone looking for quality stuff at very good prices.
